Thursday, 20 December 2012

1990 Echezeaux DRC versus Jayer

13 December 2012:  A few Burgundy nuts got together at La Maison Restaurant in Wanchai and we had two very fine pairs of wines for comparison.

First pair was 1990 DRC Echézeaux versus 1990 Jayer Echézeaux.  In anticipation of the broad-shouldered structures, both wines were given same amount of time in the glass to breathe.  The nose of the 1990 DRC was a very elegant and classic perfume of floral, with notes of earth, nutmeg and cloves, as well as some dark fruit.  Perfectly balanced, firmly structured, with plenty of freshness and a long and layered finish.  Very elegant, superb purity and a very good showing of DRC Echézeaux. 18/20  By comparison, the 1990 Jayer showed a ripe and concentrated nose of warm earth, plum, kirsch and blackberry on the nose, followed by sappy notes on the palate.  There was more than a hint of the drying finish on this wine.  17.5/20 As the evening progressed, the Jayer seemed to be losing steam on the palate, while the DRC grew from strength to strength.  I couldn't help noticing the differences in their prices....the DRC would be around GBP 800 a bottle and the Jayer last went for over GBP 4,150 a bottle at the Sotheby's auction in London in December 2012!

Next pair was the 1988 versus the 1990 DRC Romanée Saint Vivant.  Both wines showed the vintage characteristics rather well.  The 1988 was a textbook terroir expression of lovely sous bois and spicy notes, with pure red and dark fruit, while displaying a more austere, linear structure with good acidity, but with no shortage of finesse and elegance. Drink now and over next 5 - 6 years. 18.5/20  The 1990 showed a more opulent bouquet with notes of spice, earth and ripe dark fruit.  There was weight, density and depth on the palate. Finishes long.  A juicy and structured wine with a long life ahead.   Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  18.5/20 

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