A 3-Star Meal at DN-Innovacion, Taipei with 5-Star Wines

Chef Xabier Gutierrez

1 July 2012: A few days ago, Richard and I were kindly invited to a very special meal in Taipei, that would remain for us a very memorable experience.  It was at a Spanish restaurant called DN-Innovación on Songren Road in Taipei. (http://www.dn-asia.com)/

Chef Daniel Negreira



The welcome snack of gorgeous ham and olive-oil drizzed toast



The red squid

The menu was designed and prepared by visiting chef Xabier Gutierrez, the Creative Director at the 3-Michelin starred restaurant Arzak, San Sebastian, Spain.  The executive chef at DN Innovación, Daniel Negreira, completed a stint at Arzak (as well as El Bulli and others) and got to know Xabier well to invite him to come over to Taipei. 


A very tasty mackerel dish, spiced up with a little dried chilli



Boston Lobster on the 'flaxseed' reef



The absolutely fabulous Red Prawn



Line-caught sea bass with leek ashes and truffle juice

All the courses were immaculately prepared and presented, each dish was a unique creation, complete with fresh and intense flavours, colourful and meaningful presentation in 3 dimensions, and original creativity.  In short, they all exuded 3-star quality from beginning to end.  Joe,  our host, added the restaurant's special of Spanish ham and olive oil-drizzled toasted bread at the beginning to get us going.

Smoked Red Tuna with the Smouldering Cinnamon Stick

Black Pork cheek with 'Pineapple'

All the ingredients were imported, except the squid, which was sourced locally in Asia.  The only choice we had to make was in the main course, either Kobe beef cheek or black pork cheek.  We both opted for the pork, which was so richly flavoured and so tender that it almost melted in the mouth. This was accompanied by a 'pineapple' - reconstituted and condensed pineapple juice, shaped as a pineapple.  The red tuna that arrived in a smoking chamber with a cinnamon stick still glowing with its embers was rather spectacular - very tender tuna meat, beautifully smoked, simply gorgeous.  The original menu included a dish called 'Mutant Soup'.  We had it swapped for a piece of crimson Mediterranean prawn, with a fried head and a most tender almost sashimi-like body.  This was divine and paired so well with the 2000 Meursault.

The yummy fruity 'footprint'

We were treated us to the following list of fabulous wines:
NV Jacques Selosse Substance
1996 Salon
1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil
1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil
2000 Meursault Sous Le Dos d'Ane, Leflaive
1976 Meursault Charmes, Charles Bocard
1993 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau
1993 Chambertin, Leroy
1993 Chambertin, Rousseau
1991 Chambertin, Rousseau
1959 Chambertin, Rousseau
1962 La Romanée, Leroy
1933 La Romanée, Liger-Belair
1945 Taylor's Port

The selection of red wines

The wine of the evening: 1959 Rousseau Chambertin

The Selosse Substance was our welcome drink, but I think it would pair rather well with the prawn dish! The 1996 Salon stood apart with its purity, class, energy and nervosity.  The youthful bouquet showed citrus, lime zest, green apple, light toast and chalky minerality.  There was something very aristocratic about it, and it's remarkably fresh.  The 1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil by comparison was hefty, rich and mature, and perhaps lacked sophistication, intense with honey, melon, brioche, toast, acacia, nutty and smokey aromas and the palate giving a liquorice aftertaste.  The 1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil very interestingly tasted a lot fresher than the 1996 version, giving the impression of much more energy, freshness and minerality. 

The 2000 Meursault Sous Le Dos d'Ane, Leflaive was nicely well-developed, with a ripe fruit bouquet, layered with cream,  nuts, and mushroom.  Long spicy finish with some torrefaction notes on the finish.  Definitely drinking well now, and for the next 8 - 10 years.  This wine married rather well with the creaminess of the red prawn and provided some needed acidity to balance off the richness of high quality sashimi prawn.

First impression of the 1976 Meursault Charmes, Charles Bocard was an intense and mature bouquet of nougat, honey, caramel, nutty, with some botrytis notes (marmalade, orange peel).  The palate initially lacked weight and intensity to match the bouquet.  After about an hour in the glass, the flavours had intensified and the wine gained sufficient weight to make it much more interesting.  Probably past its peak, but still drinking nicely.

Then 4 rather similar Chambertin wines.  My top wine of this flight of 4 was the 1993 Rousseau Chambertin (19.5/20) - I liked the structure, concentration and velvety mouthfeel, which needed time in the glass to develop.   The 1991 Rousseau Chambertin (19/20) showed more purity of fruit and understated elegance and richness.  The 1993 Leroy Chambertin (18/20) seemed to be a little more savoury and gamey, with a slightly funky character about it.  The acidity was also more pronounced here, but the long finish was rather attractive.  The 1993 Rousseau Clos de Bèze (17.5/20) was somehow less impressive than the others....it seemed a little lacking in concentration and depth and the finish was quite short, even after development in the glass.

The wine of the evening was unquestionably the 1959 Rousseau Chambertin (20/20), which was absolutely drinking at peak now, but with a further drinking window of at least 8 -10 years. Still evident plum and cherry, layered with truffle, leather, smoke, tobacco, star anise, coriander and sous-bois.  We were all astounded by its freshness, structure, complexity and finish.  A wine with an amazing expression of Pinot Noir at its best, from the best terroir, showing an elegance that only the best from Bourgogne could achieve!  The experience of this wine still lingers in our memories.

The 1962 La Romanée, Leroy was harmonious and delicate, with a lovely finish, but perhaps a little weak on the palate compared to the Chambertins.  The 1933 La Romanée was unfortuantely too madeirised to be even called enjoyable. 

Then came the second most memorable wine of the evening.  1945 Taylor's Port.  It was a spectacular port, with a beautiful bright ruby core and a freshness that rather amazed all of us.  Notes of dried cherry, nuts, coffee, caramel.  Spirity finish.  Drinking beautifully now, with a very long life ahead!  Wouldn't be surprised if this port would have another 20 - 30 years ahead, if stored properly!  A classic port, which was simply sensational and impressive!  19.5/20

The evening left us all feeling a little jaded.  We managed our short walk back to the hotel.  I highly recommend the hotel we stayed at: Le Meridien, which literally was across the road from the restaurant, brand new, with very spacious rooms (and bathrooms) and a fabulous gym - it was just missing a proper bar where we could sit to reminisce about the fabulous dinner we just had!  Thank you very much,  Joe! It was a truly memorable experience!