7 July 2012: Last week, we were invited to dinner at probably one of the best Cantonese tables in HK. Every dish was excellent but particularly praiseworthy were the braised mushrooms, with beef tendons and goose feet and the crispy chicken. We brought a 1996 Dom Perignon and a 1988 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne. I was keen to try the 1996 DP given our recent experience with Salon and Krug Clos du Mesnil. The 1996 DP gave a nicely developed bouquet of toast, nuts and caramel, with ripe apples rounding off the aromas. Very fresh on the palate, with layers of citrus fruit and minerals, and a display of crisp acidity and creamy mousse. A very fine wine indeed. Drinking so well at this youthful stage, with a long life ahead (20+ years)! 18.5/20
The 1988 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne seems to have evolved at a snail pace.....we were totally amazed by its crispy freshness! Initially a little tight on the nose, but it warmed up to citrus, grapefruit, liquorice and honey notes. Nicely rounded mouthfeel, with plenty of citrus and mineral notes on the palate and a long finish. Great effort! 18/20
Next up was the 1985 Margaux, opulent and seductive. The nose was immediately very endearing, floral, blueberry, cassis and liquorice. We made a mistake of not having decanted it, so the palate wasn't so exciting initially. It finally got there - it took on more weight and complexity during its evolution in the glass to develop into a seductive and opulent wine (with a drying finish). At peak now, would advise drinking within next 4 - 5 years. 17.5/20
The 1982 Pichon Lalande, still showing a deep ruby hue with hardly any hint of bricking at the rim, towers over the Pichon Baron with its mighty biceps, dense body mass and concentration of richly intense flavours of cassis, blackberry, black cherry, , earthy, tobacco, leather. and cedar. Gamey, chocolate, coffee, liquorice and dried herb notes emerged after a little aeration. Mouthfeel is rich, dense and expansive. Lingering finish. This is a big wine with everything in epic proportions but harmoniously integrated and balanced, just not quite reached its apogee. Try again in 5 - 6 years time, with a very long life (15+ years in best cellaring conditions). 19.5/20
The Pichon Baron, already showing tawny-garnet at the rim, was much more evolved and seduced us with its immediate appeal of smokey, leather, blueberry and violet notes and velvety mouthfeel. Lithe and graceful, elegantly structured, with a good amount of underlying richness. Good length, with a slightly drying finish. Drinking very well now and over next 5 - 8 years. 18/20
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