5 Vintages of Sassicaia, including the legendary 1985

13 May 2011: I had spent weeks preparing for this Sassicaia wine dinner and I was really pleased to see that it finally took place at Cipriani restaurant. 5 vintages were to be tasted, including the legendary 1985 vintage and a succession of younger vintages: 1998, 1999, 2000 and 2003. I was wary that some of these vintages had not been terribly well reviewed by critics. Therefore, it really was quite a pleasant surprise that all the wines showed extremely well. It certainly helped that the chef did us proud with his perfectly executed dishes, of which the steak fiorentina particularly deserved special mention – the juicy sirloin almost melted in the mouth and the tenderloin, succulent and well-flavoured – just the perfect dish to go with the 1985.


The menu read like this:

Eggplant parmigiana – 2003 Sassicaia

Pappardelle with duck ragout – 2000 Sassicaia

Rack of lamb with balsamic sauce – 1999 and 1998 Sassicaia

Black Angus fiorentina steak - 1985 Sassicaia

Selection of Italian cheese

Sassicaia, the iconic wine, that many would compare with a classic classed growth claret, was responsible for bringing world attention to the Maremma region (and more specifically the Bolgheri strip) of Tuscany with its first commercial launch in 1968. Sassicaia bore more than one resemblance to Bordeaux: maritime climate, stony soils (Sassicaia is translated as “a field of stones”), and the grape varieties. Sassicaia went from strength to strength, culminating in the presentation of the legendary 1985, which Robert Parker claimed he had almost mistaken with a 1986 Mouton Rothschild on a number of occasions. This kind of compliment was no small feat and the making of Sassicaia was the lifetime achievement of one man, Mario Incisa della Rochetta, who through his passion, imagination and conviction made it possible, and now his son, Nicolò, with winemaker Dr. Sebastiano Rosa, are working hard to take this legacy to new heights, evidenced in the critics’ ratings of recent vintages, including 2006, 2007 and 2008.

The tasting of these 5 vintages revealed the consistently preserved hallmark of Sassicaia wines: understated elegance, balance, incredible freshness and the ability to age effortlessly. The microclimate, the soils, the choice of grapes (the combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, the latter contributing elegance, much finesse and aromatics), and the age of the vines have all played a major role in maintaining this style, testament to its expressiveness of “terroir”, a word that would make the French proud of their heritage. [Up until 1987, the blend consisted of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, the percentage of Cabernet Franc then increased to 15% and for the 2003 vintage, it was moved up to 19%.]

Brief notes of the vintages (decanted for 1 – 2 hours):

2003 Sassicaia – Deep ruby hue. Very spicy nose, layered with red cherry, plum, cassis, chocolate, liquorice, cedar and vanilla. Velvety texture belies the ripe chewy tannin and the ripe fruit completely enrobed the vibrant acidity. A rich and opulent wine, that is ready to drink now but will continue to evolve over the next 10 – 15 years. Finishes long, sweet and spicy. 18.5/20

2000 Sassicaia – Bright ruby core. Silky and lush, rather unassuming, but very refined. A very attractive nose of pot pourri, berry, with nuances of mint, cedar and lead pencil. Drinking perfectly now, but has potential to develop further over 8 – 10+ years. 17.5/20

1999 Sassicaia – Bright ruby. Not the strongest vintage in this evening’s line-up. A vintage plagued by lots of rain during flowering and during the month of July, which was followed by a burst of heat and sunshine in August. Yields were high to keep the alcohol down to an acceptable level. Complex nose of blackcurrant, violet, herbaceous, eucalyptus and mint, with some leather and savoury character coming through. Lighter in body than the other vintages, but drinking very well now, and will drink well for 4 – 5 years. 16.5/20

1998 Sassicaia – A lush and sensuous wine, with plenty of character. Extremely well balanced, well-structured. Plum, chocolate, spicy, eucalyptus nose. Well-integrated tannin, very smooth on the palate, with the unmistakable fresh acidity of Sassicaia. Finishes very sweet – great dish to go with the lamb with balsamic sauce! Drinking well now and will continue to evolve over 8 – 12 years. 18/20

1985 Sassicaia (in magnum) – what can I say?! Truly phenomenal, once it’s had time to open up in the glass. I had underestimated the time it would take to open up. After 1 hour in the decanter, it needed further time in the glass to reveal its full glory. A nose of blackcurrant, blueberry, violet, cedar, cigar box, leather and a hint of spice reminded me of a first growth claret at its peak! Firmly structured, having fully integrated all the elements, including the remarkable acidity and the robust tannin and some very ripe and concentrated fruit, without showing any signs of fatigue. A true classic that left us speechless, except to admire the finish that went on and on! 20/20

Before the dinner, I had only had limited experience of Sassicaia. Now, I am left with no doubt over its iconic status: Sassicaia has proven to me that it’s really in a class of its own!