3 May 2011: We were invited to a Léoville Poyferré dinner at the Dining Room at the Aberdeen Marina Club. Anne Cuvelier was passing through HK during her holidays and so wine-lovers in HK grabbed the opportunity to organise a small tasting dinner. I didn't get the chance to ask when the bottles were opened, but all 5 vintages showed very well and so different!
2004 Léoville Poyferré (magnum) - Traditional French rillette with duck foie gras, toasted country bread, cranberry coulis
Very supple and velvety-textured. The intensely flavoured and concentrated blackcurrant and black cherry fruit closely wrapped around the firm tannic structure. Floral and mineral on the nose. Already drinking very well, and will continue to develop over next 10 - 15 years. 17.5/20
2003 Léoville Poyferré - Savoury sautéed mushrooms, choizo, walnuts and green onion
An inky, intense and deeply concentrated muscular wine, distinguished by burnt blackberry preserve and cassis nose, low acidity and yet a very big and ripe tannic structure. The shee structure of the wine was rather overpowering. I didn't take very well to the burnt character of the wine, but I could see why my fellow diners were totally gobsmacked by it. It did relent a bit towards the end of the meal. I would probably leave it in bottle for further evolution before trying this wine again. Drink from 2014. Long life ahead. 18+/20
2001 Léoville Poyferré - Chargrilled Colorado lamb chop, white asparagus and caramelised kumquat
Drinking perfectly now, this beauty of a wine, so aromatic, elegant and already very silky. Plums, spicy, coffee. I felt that the wine did not hold up so well, once in the glass and was in a declining state towards end of the dinner. Drink now and for next 3 - 4 years. 16.5/20
1996 Léoville Poyferré
1990 Léoville Poyferré
Roasted beef tenderloin, shallots, black pepper marmalade, potato gratin dauphinois
I thought the 1996 was rather like the quintessential claret, rather ungenerous at the moment (at least the bottle from which my serving was poured). It needed a lot of time in the glass to gain weight and open up. I think I should try this wine again in 2 - 3 years time. 17+/20
The 1990 by comparison was already in its most seductive state. Floral, smoke, coffee, with subtle blueberry fruit bolstering the aromatic spectrum. Aromatic, sensual, and velvety. Simply gorgeous. A really excellent wine and to me, perfect now....but would continue to evolve effortlessly for next 10 - 15 years. 19/20
Then we finished off the meal with an absolutely decadent chestnut semifreddo, glazed with gianduja chocolate!
Anne said that while 2009 was brilliant, the 2010 was an absolute success for them, so it's true - Léoville Poyferré has been going from strength to strength.......let's hope the prices continue to remain sensible (for the sake of us modest folks) for this level-headed family-run château!
And thank you to Eric and Rachel for including us at dinner!
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