Disappointed by Old Vintage Wines, not Once but Twice!

13 Feb 2011:  We brought forward our Valentine's Day dinner a couple of days earlier because Richard was going to be busy on Monday.  And a real treat it would be - a quiet romantic dinner à deux at home!  Some home-cooked comfort food - roast rack of pork, flavoured with five spice and sage marinade, served on a bed of mashed swede, with roast carrots and potatoes!  I surprised Richard with a 1993 Meursault Comtes Lafon, as the last bottle we had was totally oxidised.  This bottle showed freshness, energy and  very charming mature character, with a honeyed and nutty nose, complemented with lemon, marzipan, nougat, ginger, cinnamon and smokey notes.  A remarkable effort. Good length. Drinking beautifully, and probably for the next 6 - 8 years.   17.5/20



45 Lafite

 With a lot of anticipation, Richard attempted to pull the cork of the 1945 Lafite Rothschild.  Despite missing its label, the bottle embossed with 1945 seemed to be in rather good shape. Top shoulder level. Slightly damaged capsule.  Alas, once the corkscrew went in - not a good sign - the cork was rather crumbly.  With a lot of effort, we managed to decant it.  Cloudy garnet.  An out of condition nose further confirmed the spoilage.  It was totally undrinkable and we had to see it down the sink!



45 Haut Brion

 Backup was the 1945 Haut Brion.  Good label, good condition capsule, top shoulder level.  The cork was a little loose but came out in one piece.  Volatility was very evident.  A few swirls of the glass would reveal an otherwise attractive nose of smoke, leather, pebbles and mocha.  Still a wine characteristic of its terroir and provenance.  Drying out on the finish.  A wine that probably saw better days 10+ years ago.  15/20

Not entirely satisfied with our vinous adventure this evening, we decided to open a half bottle of 1982 La Lagune.  Yet another disappointment awaited.  Bretty and volatile, tasting of vinegar......sigh!

Totally despondent by these disappointing bottles, we went for a much safer option - a half bottle of 2005 Morey Saint Denis Clos de la Bussière Roumier, which was delicious and by far the best drink of the evening.  Some animal, savoury character complementing the ripe fruit.  More blackberry and black cherry than raspberry.....17.5/20

So could we conclude that for these old vintage wines, only bottles with"base of neck" level would guarantee the quality and condition of the wine?  Or it's simply not worth the risk?