Friday, 1 October 2010
What a marvellous flight of top wines!
30 Sep 2010: The eve of the Chinese National Day. We felt very privileged to be invited to a special dinner at the China Club where we were served some marvellous first class wines, and from rather large formats! We were welcomed with a glass of 2003 Louis Roederer Blanc de Blancs, which was ever so refreshing! The red wines that followed formed a truly impressive list: 2003 Pavie, 2000 Cheval Blanc (Jeroboam), 1995 Mouton Rothschild (Jeroboam), 1989 Margaux (Imperial), 1990 Lafite (Jeroboam) and 1990 Latour. Pavie and Latour were the only two wines in 750 ml bottles. I was impressed on two levels: one was the visual impression that these large formats created, just a marvellous sight; and the other was how the 1990 performed and best of all how the 1990 Latour performed on such an evening! The Latour spoke of power, concentration and length, the Lafite, more about complexity and elegance. I was equally impressed by the 2000 Cheval Blanc, which drank beautifully, with soft blackcurrant and plum ripe fruit notes, coffee and chocolate character, and would be developing for a very long time. Despite its perfumed nose, 1989 Margaux was a little overwhelmed on this occasion - it seemed much more delicate and less structured, even for its Imperial format. The 1995 Mouton perhaps was the weakest in my view. Pavie was very much burnt fruit character, great with food but perhaps did not quite have the complexity and length of the others. If I had to rate them, despite each being a great wine on its own merit, it would look like this, from highest to lowest score: 1990 Latour, 2000 Cheval Blanc, 1990 Lafite, 1989 Margaux, 1995 Mouton and 2003 Pavie. Incidentally, it was a great idea to organise such tasting dinner at the China Club, which did a fantastic job with both food and service.
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