English Artisanal Cheeses Delighting Hong Kong Gourmets' Palates

21 February 2019

It did come as a bit of surprise to some in the room that such great cheeses were made in England. At Cheese & Wine HK’s first tasting event, I had prepared a selection of eight different cheeses from different counties in England, served with two lovely sparkling wines from Coates & Seely hailing from Hampshire. While preparing for this, I was captivated by the story behind each cheese, such as the long distance Mary Holbrook would drive weekly to nurture her Old Ford cheeses maturing at Neal’s Yard Dairy, or a cheese (Stichelton) born from the revival of use of raw milk in the making of Stilton; or indeed the elements that made each cheese so authentic, such as the milk from the adorable Anglo Nubian goats in the making of Sinodun Hill, or the meadows feeding the Montbéliarde cows that would give such richness and complexity to Baron Bigod.


Our flight of eight cheeses included:

Sinodun Hill (Oxfordshire)

Though a relatively new cheese, only in production since 2016, Sinodun Hill has already been winning awards. Sinodun Hill is the proper name for the Wittenham Clumps, just above the Earth Trust Farm, where the goats graze.

A raw goat-milk bloomy rind cheese, with a wrinkled cream-coloured rind, that feels dry and downy to the touch. Runny ivory-coloured paste under the rind, velvety and mousse-like in the centre.

Delicate lactic and sweet aromas and flavours dominate, reminding one of fresh hay and spring meadow flowers, very delicate caprine notes blending with citrus, pineapple and honey notes. A well-balanced cheese, with medium+ salt and medium acidity. The paste is almost like thickly whipped cream.

A delicately flavoured cheese that symbolises springtime freshness.


Baron Bigod (Suffolk)

Made to a French recipe, Baron Bigod is the only farmstead Brie-de-Meaux style cheese made with raw milk in the UK. The richness of this cheese owes much to the diverse grasses and herbs that grow on the grazing land of Stow Fen, where the Montbéliarde cows graze.

A raw cow-milk bloomy rind cheese, with brown spots showing through the downy rind, and a lemon-cream coloured soft paste, which flows out at room temperature. High salt, medium+ acidity, with a slightly bitter finish, characteristic of this cheese style. Mushroom, straw and buttery cream complete the aromas and flavours. A rich, unctuous and luxuriant cheese that oozes out and covers your palate. Long finish.

This cheese is the pinnacle of bloomy rinds!


Winslade (Hampshire)

Winslade was developed as a sibling to Tunworth (Camembert-style cheese). It is somewhere between a Camembert style and Vacherin Mont d'or style cheese.

A cow-milk washed rind cheese, with the characteristic tan-orange rind, and an ivory-coloured soft to runny paste, depending on the room temperature. The spruce band gives it a typical pine woody note. It has light mushroom note, with butter and hazelnut nuances. The richness is balanced by a lovely tangy finish.

A cheese that appeals to gourmets.


St Cera (Suffolk)

St Cera is a collaboration between cheesemaker Julie Cheyney and the maturation team at Neal's Yard Dairy. Using milk provided by Jonny Crickmore at Fen Farm, Julie has perfected this small, spoonable washed rind cow's milk cheese.

A raw cow-milk washed rind cheese, with a light golden coloured sticky rind, over a runny cream-coloured paste. It is a richly flavoured cheese, that exudes intense farmyard and fermented aromas, complemented by floral (chamomile) and nutty (hazelnut) notes. A rich and unctuous cheese that is packed with flavours and has a chewy texture to the rind but melting texture underneath.

Small and punchy!


Spenwood (Berkshire)

Cheesemaker Anne Wigmore was inspired by a piece of pecorino while visiting Sardinia. Named after the Berkshire village where it originated, Spencers Wood.

A sheep-milk pressed uncooked cheese, with a light brown/orange rind occasionally with some white spots, and a cream coloured supple paste. Floral, caramel and nutty notes. Almost claggy in the mouth. Medium salt and medium acidity, with a very long finish. Nutty and sweet.


Sparkenhoe Red Leicester (Warwickshire, bordering with Leicestershire)

After a half century absence, David and Jo Clarke brought farmhouse Red Leicester back to England. Handmade since 2005, Sparkenhoe is a farmhouse Red Leicester and the only unpasteurised version presently available.

A raw cow-milk pressed uncooked cheese. The rind is dry, with a grey/brown colour, over an orange supple and slightly crumbly paste. The wet earthy notes remind one of rain-drenched earth. Buttery, butterscotch, fruity aromas and flavours complete the spectrum. The paste is supple and has an elastic/chewy texture. Medium salt level, finishing with a tangy acidity, and a persistent finish.

A marvellously crafted cheese with a strong heritage.


Old Ford (Somerset)

Old Ford is made by Mary Holbrook on Sleight Farm. It is made when the seasonal milk production peaks, usually between May and July.

A raw goat-milk pressed uncooked cheese that has a dry grey rind, over a granular dry crumbly ivory coloured paste. There is a dominant savoury and nutty character, over a caprine flavour, together with a grassy, pineapple and citrus tangy note. Medium acidity, medium salt.

A well-balanced aged goat milk cheese that is so complex and original.


Stichelton (Nottinghamshire)

Raw milk, Stilton-recipe blue cheese had disappeared from the UK for 18 years when Joe Schneider with the help of Randolph Hodgson began making it at Stichelton Dairy in 2006. A PDO Stilton can only be made in Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire or Leicestershire – and only to a specific recipe using pasteurised milk. The Stilton Cheesemakers Association refused Joe’s request to allow raw milk Stilton to be produced. Thus was born Stichelton!

A raw cow-milk blue cheese, with a dry natural rind that is brown/orange, and an ivory coloured paste with a crumbly texture evenly dispersed with blue veins. Prominent notes of caramel and butter, with harmonious blue flavours, nuts, toast and some umami (like Bovril). There is a faint bitterness at the finish. A creamy texture that coats your palate, but tastes drier towards the rind. High acidity, with a medium+ salt level.

A very harmonious blue cheese experience.



As for the wine pairing, the sparklings did a very versatile job in pairing with most of the cheeses, except perhaps for the blue cheese, when a bottle of 1963 Colheita Port was opened to the rescue!

I loved the space at Metropolitan Workshop

These are all great stories and interesting details that keep our passion for artisanal cheeses alive. When you next taste a piece of cheese, think about how and why it tastes so delicious! You may find yourself rolling in daffodils and buttercups!