Monday 17 September 2018

Enchanted by Sangiovese

Sep 2018:  On our way to the Panzano in Chianti Wine Festival, we took the opportunity to stop by in Florence for a few days to visit the historic city. We decided to try a different expression of Sangiovese from different regions of Tuscany during our four evenings.

2014 Poggio Valente, Fattorio Le Pupille (based on Sangiovese, with Alicante and others), IGT Toscana
A very pleasant wine that at once delights with its freshness and elegant expression of Sangiovese lifted by the addition of Alicante. Vineyard in Pereta in Maremma. Vinified in 500-600 litres barrels. Silky texture delivering a delicately rounded mouthfeel, lifted freshness, complemented with the openness of bright red cherry and a floral character, spiced with balsamic, that is so endearing. The readiness to approach belies a linear structure and a refined elegance. A medium length finish. A beautiful that deserves to be enjoyed now, but equally over the next 6-8 years. 16.5/20


2014 Nipozanno Chianti Rufina Riserva, Marchesi FrescobaldiA well-proportioned Chianti with balance, freshness, a measured dose of complexity and a Rufina elegance that makes this wine so attractive. It delivers the expectations of a fine Chianti that would go well with a Florentine steak.  Where it let down on depth or length, partly due to the vintage, it definitely gained on elegance, finesse and a very readily approachable charm. 16/20




2010 Asinone, Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCGThe wine took half an hour in the glass to come together. When it did, we tasted a wine with the richness and immense concentration expected of the vintage, with layers of complexity that combined dried red berries, balsamic, tea leaves and coffee notes, and a refined savoury minerality at its core. An intense expression of Sangiovese with a unique personality and a very persistent finish. A beautiful wine that is sensibly priced. Asinone is only made in the best vintages. Aged in French barriques. Compared with wines from the more illustrious DOCG in Montalcino, this less fashionable example from Montepulciano DOCG delivered excellent quality for its price (as far as Michelin-starred restaurant price lists go)! 17.5/20

This bottle we tried at Il Palagio at the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence.  The service was professional and friendly. As it was a balmy evening, we were able to take our dinner outdoors. The vegetarian starters were particular highlights!

This is a 2015 vintage bottle whereas we had the 2010 vintage.

2012 Percarlo, San Giusto a Rentennano, IGT ToscanaA wine at once immensely alluring to the nose and the palate. Percarlo is a blend of 6 Chianti crus.  A suave and elegant Sangiovese, with balance, intensity and depth, vibrancy, purity of bright fruit and a finesse that transcends from initial attack to the persistent finish. Notes of redcurrant, cranberry, dried herbs overlying a mineral core. It is a very fine example of Sangiovese at its best. Still very youthful and will develop well over next 6-8 years. A modern classic.  18.5/20

We enjoyed this bottle at Enoteca Pinchiorri.  The service was formal, professional and very appropriate for its 3-Michelin star status. The food was exceptional, in particular the risotto with deep fried marrow and capers with red pepper reduced sauce, and the pigeon baked in a chocolate crust. What I found of particular interest was that there seemed to be two dining rooms in the restaurant and every table in our dining room was occupied by foreigners.  Could it be that they put the locals in one room and the foreigners in another???

It was also a little strange that we were not given petits fours with our coffee.......our hope for a little souvenir gateau was sadly squashed too as we were escorted into our taxi at the front entrance!  



The sensational risotto dish, with deep fried bone marrow and capers


The yummy pigeon dish with an original mango chutney and caramelised carrots

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