Visit to La Massa

14 Sep 2018: With the scorching autumn sun beating on our backs, we weaved our way down a steep dusty downhill path to La Massa's winery from our friends' house in Panzano in Chianti. We had met the owner Giampaolo Motta at the white Burgundy tasting hosted by our friends the previous day (see earlier blog). He was probably taken by surprise that we had actually taken up on his offer for a visit when we eventually turned up at 11:30 am. The winery was very kind to fit us in when they already had a full morning of group visits arranged.

 

Giampaolo greeting us from his window

Completed in 2011, the renovation of the winery and cellars took 3 years. Every material and human activity flow had been considered in the design of the new winery to minimise energy consumption and to make optimum use of gravity-driven dynamics. The winery uses Ragazzini Rotho peristaltic pumps which ensure delicate pumping of wine during racking. Not only were mechanical concerns an important part of the design, according to Francesco Bufalini who joined as Director in 2015, the winery had been designed in black, red and silver to recall the colours of Ferrari, a brand much admired by Giampaolo.

Francesco Bufalini, the Director of La Massa in the middle

The Ferrari colours!

The winery had carried out extensive studies on individual parcels of soils and exposures. This resulted in the 2011 launch of a 100% Sangiovese from a one-hectare single parcel near the winery. The microclimate and schist-sand soils of this parcel have found to bestow elegance, aromatic intensity, pencil lead minerality, freshness and a linear structure qualities to Sangiovese, very much a feminine version of the Giorgio Primo. Thus named this cuvée Carla. Only 5,000 bottles each year, bottled in Burgundy bottles. Only punching down is used in the vinification, and the wine is aged one year in concrete, one year in 500-litre barrels and one year in bottle before release. We tried the 2015 Carla at the winery.


Giorgio Primo is the iconic wine of the estate. It used to be a Chianti Classico between 1992 and 2001. From 2002, it became an IGT Toscana, though still with the inclusion of Sangiovese. From 2007 onwards, the Sangiovese component was removed from this blend. The 2015 vintage was a blend of ​55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot. Vinified for 35 days. Aged 18 months in wood barrels, with 60% new barrels. We tried the 2015 vintage of this wine and it showed a firm structure, with juicy fruit and velvety tannins. A wine with a lot of potential but I probably preferred the 2015 Carla for the finesse.

The three wines we tasted: 2016 La Massa, 2015 Giorgio Primo and 2015 Carla

With a total of 160,000 bottle production, most of La Massa's wine is vinified and bottled as La Massa, the namesake wine. We tasted the 2016 version which was a blend of 65% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Alicante/Merlot. Aged 14 months in wood, with 20% new oak. The wine already showed an ample mid palate, with mineral core beneath the aromatic fruit, balanced with freshness, and a long finish. It's a wine eager to please and perfect to be shown on the by-the-glass list.

At La Massa, they welcome cellar door sales but export sales are critical to the business. Almost 90% of the sales are to export markets, outside of Italy. You would often see the wines at selected top Michelin-starred restaurants around the world. 

A spot of white in Chianti - a horizontal tasting of two vintages of white Burgundy (2008 and 2011)

13 Sep 2018: James and Ellen, our friends and hosts at Panzano, very generously opened their cellars and organised a special tasting of white Burgundy wines for the producers of Panzano and us! It was a tasting of two vintages: 2008 and 2011. To accompany the fine wines, they had organised some nibbles catered by Enoteca Baldi (a very good address in town for the best spaghetti with tomato and basil!)

Yinghsien Tan MW ensuring all in order! Giampaolo Motta tempted by the snacks.

Ellen talking to Josephin and Jarkko of Candialle at the back of the room

Under the supervision of "resident" MW, Yinghsien Tan, the wines were organised into four pairs. Despite a difficult growing season, the 2008 whites were to a large extent saved by the drying northerly winds from mid September that produced ripe fruit with minerality and freshness to accompany for the early pickers and opulently rich fruit for the later harvesters.   2011 is generally regarded as an early-drinking vintage with the whites delivering balance and aromatic charm.  As usual, the date of picking was critical for both vintages.

From my conversations around the room, the producers seemed happy to be part of this unusual tasting in Chianti. I spoke to many about the potential for white grape planting in Panzano. Many told me that they did not have the right terroir for white grapes. Some of the producers make a rosé wine to compensate for the lack of white wine. However, there are notable exceptions. For example, we tasted the complex white blend from Castello dei Rampolla, which is an unusual mix of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. Imagine pairing with a lovely goat cheese! There is also the Sauvignon Blanc wine from Fontodi, Meriggio, an IGT Colli Toscana Centrale. Giampaolo Motta of La Massa also revealed that he had plans for Chenin Blanc on some of his schist soils. With different exposures, soils and canopy management, it is not inconceivable that the potential for whites can be further explored.

On the terrace, James, Ellen and their guests enjoying our favourite glass (instead of spitting!)

Richard and Johnny Goedhuis 

Laura Goedhuis in deep converation with Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi

Here are my brief tasting notes from the white Burgundy tasting:

First Pair:



2011 Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre

Fleshy but vibrant with a tight mineral core and expressive salinity. The wine still needs some time for the discreet wood to integrate and for the wine to develop further its complexity.  However, the harmony, subtle power and persistence today are already very promising.  To enjoy now and over next 6-8 years.  17.5/20


2011 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A very different expression from the Droin version. The focus here is on freshness, purity, and bright green fruit accompanied by floral notes. The delicate balance is achieved with a mineral core throughout the palate. A very classy Chablis Premier Cru.  Already very approachable. To be enjoyed over next 4-5 years. 17.5/20







Second Pair:




2011 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne
Clean and harmonious. A linear structure. Focus on vibrancy and minerality and less on an overt fruit character.  There was still a hint of reductive character from the bottle I tried. Loved the persistent saline finish, but it could be a little austere for some!16.5/20


2011 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain
A much more aromatically opulent bouquet with ripe yellow fruit, pear, toast and nutty notes. The expression is rich, with a creamy palate and rounded mouthfeel, while retaining sufficient freshness to balance the ripe fruit. A well-measured saline finish. Finishes long. 17/20








Third Pair:



2008 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A well-matured Chablis, with a firm structure. Developed bouquet of honey, nougat and stewed pear. Some of us found it very attractive. I thought it would be great with an aged Parmesan. (I suspect there would be some bottle variation amongst the case for this wine.) 16/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets
Ambitious winemaking is very evident here.  Opulent bouquet of vanilla, toast, honey and peach. There was still a hint of reductive character. Muscular and rich with a fleshy texture. The presence of crisp acidity kept the wine well balanced, leaving with a persistent finish. 17/20






Fourth Pair:



2008 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet
Linear and mineral. A wine of tension and depth showing precise winemaking and well-crafted balance and elegance. A glorious expression of this climat from Puligny. Still very youthful depending on the bottle. Sadly there was much bottle variation amongst the three bottles.  18/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Corton Blanc
Very fine and mineral. Linear. Vibrant. Gained complexity and weight in glass to open. Saline finish. Long. Further cellaring time would probably reward a greater appreciation of its full potential. At this moment, I felt that the winemaker's presence rather overwhelmed the appellation's expression. To be approached in the next 3-4 years. 17.5/20





As if we were not enough spoilt by such wonderful spread of fine wines, our hosts dazzled us at dinner with two red Burgundies that went down like a treat: 2002 Clos des Lambrays and 2001 Clos de La Roche, Dujac, the latter in magnum. This was followed by a 1834 Malvasia Madeira by Barbeito, which was extremely vibrant without the weighty richness of Malvasia.  Could there be a more special way to end a very fine day?!

Panzano in Chianti Wine Festival – A village with its heart in Wine…… and Beef

The Panzano in Chianti Wine Festival (Vino al Vino) is one of the most charming wine festivals we have ever been to. All the tastings took place around a triangular village square that neatly fitted the stalls for 21 wine producers of Panzano in Chianti (see end of blog for full list of the 21 members). The Unione Viticoltori di Panzano in Chianti was set up in 1995 to promote quality and sustainable production, with respect for the soil as a particular focus. The result is that more than 80% of the vineyards farmed now practice organic viticulture, representing a total of 450 hectares. The hilltop village of Panzano in Chianti is widely recognised to be one of the highest quality vineyard areas within the vast area of Chianti Classico DOCG that stretches from Florence to Siena. This year the festival took place between 13 and 16 September.

The festival set in the triangular village square

Simply tasting a glass of Chianti Classico DOCG or IGT Toscana does not allow one to fully appreciate the undulating landscape of Chianti. This picturesque landscape offers a multitude of microclimates and terroirs with diverse soil types that suit not just Sangiovese but also a myriad of other indigenous and international varieties, including Colorino, Canaiolo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. These factors explain to an extent what the wines share in common and how they differ from each other, that is before we even spend time with different producers to understand their philosophies and individual styles.

How true is the timeless adage: seeing is believing. One needs to come and visit to appreciate the well-exposed terraced vineyards where Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot are perfectly ripened vintage after vintage for Castello dei Rampolla’s iconic d’Alceo wine. Equally, one needs to visit La Massa to check out the single vineyard (Parcel number 6) located near the winery that is so well-situated for La Massa’s only 100% Sangiovese cuvée named Carla with its most elegant structure that accentuates the freshness, aromatic complexity and finesse. To highlight its femininity, this wine is specially bottled in a Burgundian shaped bottle. Or how the wines that come from the same slope can have such different styles, exemplified by the wines from Le Fonti, Le Cinciole and Panzanello.

 

Wines by La Massa

And of course, the other adage: the proof of the pudding is in the eating or in this case, the tasting. Monte Bernardi’s Retromarcia Chianti Classico 2016 with the Sangiovese planted mainly on 70% galestro soils (the local schist-shale soil), with 20% arenaria (sandstone) and 10% alberese (limestone) showed elegance, aromatic complexity and purity, with bright juiciness and acidity. Whereas its Sa’etta Chianti Classico Riserva 2014 with the Sangiovese planted on highly reflective sandstone soils (arenaria-calcare-pietraforte), demonstrated a more linear structure, minerality, power and a long finish. The proprietor had the stones at the stall as illustration.

 

Monte Bernardi's wines at the festival

Diversity in the soils, innovation with grape varieties, but the wines from Panzano will not be great wines without the ingenious intervention of its winemakers. At Panzano, tradition lives hand in hand with innovation. Alceo of Castello dei Rampolla was the first to plant Cabernet Sauvignon in Panzano and to blend it with Cabernet Sauvignon. At the Panzano festival, different winemakers presented their 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, 100% Merlot, 100% Pinot Nero and 100% Syrah. However, it particularly piqued my interest to try a 100% Canaiolo at the stand of Vallone di Cecione. Vinified in cement and left on skins for 2 months before ageing in cement. The Canaiolo has a particular place in the Anichini’s family tradition. This wine was created to dedicate to this tradition and to showcase this under-appreciated indigenous grape variety with its wildflowers aromatic profile and soft tannins. It was particularly interesting to try this 2016 100% Canaiolo side by side the Chianti Classico of the same vintage, with 90% Sangiovese and 10% Canaiolo, to taste what the Canaiolo added to the complexity of the wine.

 

Vallone di Cecione's wines at the festival

The open mindedness at Panzano has also allowed foreign or non-Tuscan talented winemakers to live their dreams of making quality Chianti Classico wines. A great example is Josephin and Jarkko Peränen. Jarkko is Finnish and Josephin is German. 20 years ago, he went to Tuscany to do a harvest at a small producer. In 2002, he had the opportunity to purchase his own farm – the birth of Candialle. Most of his plantings are south-west oriented Sangiovese, with some Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot plus a very minor portion of Malvasia Nera and Canaiolo. 

Jarkko and Josephin of Candialle

The four largest estates in Panzano in Chianti in terms of production volumes are: Fontodi, Castello dei Rampolla, La Massa and Caffagio. I felt that there was a strong sense of camaraderie amongst all the producers. They all share and contribute towards the common vision of sustaining the quality of Panzano wines, whilst making room for individual identities that make Panzano so special. 

Caffagio's wines presented at the festival

Fontodi's wines presented at the festival

Different vintages were presented at the festival tasting, with a few producers showing the much-hyped 2015 vintage. 2015 looks set to be a promising vintage, with muscles, concentration and intensity. However, for immediate hedonistic pleasures, I rather enjoyed tasting the 2014 examples for its understated elegance and aromatic charm and some of the 2016 examples for the vibrant acidity.

When we visited, it was very hot and dry. It would be interesting to taste the 2018 in a couple of years to see whether global climate changes have started to challenge viticulture in this sun-kissed village. I understand that some of the producers were already considering planting less fully south to mitigate the direct impact of the intense sun in a warming vineyard.

Being ignorant first-time visitors, we were rather unprepared to explore fully this charming village’s treasure trove. I would have loved to actually visit some of the producers – some even within walking distance of our friends’ villa. (We did visit one – La Massa.) 

Nonetheless, we were very privileged to be invited to join a retrospective tasting of back vintages for these 21 producers. Each year the producers would present the back vintages ending with the same last digit as the year of the festival. The vintages of 2008 and 1998 were featured in this year’s retrospective tasting, with one producer including a 1988 wine. Both 1998 and 2008 were cooler classic vintages.

If there could be one conclusion from the retrospective tasting, it was that the top wines of Panzano in Chianti certainly could age well and some very very well. I list below my top picks from the retrospective tasting (note that not every producer showed both vintages).

 

The retrospective tasting....Yinghsien Tan MW as guest of honour

We were also very privileged to be invited to an evening reception hosted by the Unione Viticoltori di Panzano in Chianti. Apart from the wonderful wines, we were also able to taste some fabulous local produce, including sheep and goat cheese, charcuterie and roasted pork. I have to admit that the Nutella calzone, drizzled with honey, was irresistible, despite the non-Tuscan provenance of its key ingredient.

A Panzano event would not be complete without the presence of world-renowned master of beef: Dario Cecchini who equally put Panzano on the world’s gourmet map, as much as its wines. Dario is an international personality and a butcher extraordinaire, with his theatrical and artistic style. In 1976, he took over the family’s shop after his father’s premature death and became the 8th generation of Cecchini butchers. Dario will be doing a world tour in November, and one of his stops will be Hong Kong. The master will be showcasing his mastery of cooking beef at Grappa’s this November. Be sure to make your reservation for dinner on 24th November or lunch on 25th November. (www.dariocecchini.com)

Dario and his wife Kim outside the family butcher shop

If you are planning to visit this wonderful region, try to time your visit around next year’s festival which will be held between 12 and 15 September 2019. You will find more details here: www.viticoltoripanzano.com

Luca Orsini and Valeria Vigano of Le Cinciole
Valeria also current President of the Unione Viticoltori di Panzano in Chianti

My top picks from the Panzano retrospective tasting:
Chianti Classico Riserva Don Vincenzo, Casaloste, 2008

Fattoria Casaloste has 19 hectares of vines, 10.5 ha of which produce Chianti Classico. Agronomist and enologist Giovanni Battista d’Orsi, together with his wife Emilia run the winery. Total production of the winery is 60,000 bottles a year.

Don Vincenzo’s first vintage was 1995. It is made with 100% Sangiovese from a single vineyard – Don Vincenzo, named after owner Giovanni’s father Vincenzo. It is made only in the best vintages. Aged 18-24 months in barriques (usually about 12% new and the rest one-year), followed by 18 months in 35 hl barrels, and 12 months in bottle before release. Only about 3,300 bottles produced a year.



Castello dei Rampolla D’Alceo 2008

Castello dei Rampolla D’Alceo 1998

The land upon which Castello dei Rampolla winery now stands has been in the family since 1739. Thanks to the vision and relentless efforts of one man, Alceo di Napoli Rampolla, the winery’s first bottles of Chianti Classico were produced in 1975 when the appellation was struggling to be appreciated. Next he teamed up with Giacomo Tachis to be the first in the area to plant Cabernet Sauvignon and to blend it with Sangiovese. The current generation (Luca and Maurizia) started the conversion to biodynamic viticulture and winemaking in 1994. Never stopping with innovations, Castello dei Rampolla started experimenting with vinification in terracotta (cocciopesto) amphorae in 2008. In 2010, Sangiovese di S. Lucia, a pure Sangiovese, vinified and aged in terracotta amphorae, with no added sulphites, was launched. The winery also makes a white wine, vinified in amphorae. It is a blend of 50% Trebbiano, 20% Sauvignon Blanc, 20% Chardonnay and 10% Traminer.

The first vintage of D’Alceo started in 1996. This is a biodynamic wine and a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Petit Verdot. 3 months vinification in concrete, 12-15 months in 500 litre tonneaux and 18-24 months in bottle before release. The vines are planted on south-facing galestro slopes of the Conca d’Oro and trained low as bush-trained vines (albarello). Production is 6,000 – 12,000 bottles. The Conca d’Oro is translated as the “golden shell”, referring to the amphitheatre shape of the valley south of the village of Panzano.

I hate to say that they were like Bordeaux classed growths, because these wines clearly have their own distinct personality. However, the minerality, complexity (red fruits, floral and tobacco) and elegant structure of these wines were so distinctly different from other styles from Panzano that it would be hard not to direct the mind towards Bordeaux, or even more precisely Saint Julien.



Flaccianello della Pieve, Fontodi, 1998
Fontodi is the largest producer that lies in the heart of the Conca d’Oro (see above explanation). Fontodi has been owned by the Manetti family since 1968. The family has a long-established connection with the region through its terracotta business. The organically certified estate stretches 130 hectares, of which 70 hectares are planted with vines.

The Flaccianello della Pieve is a 100% Sangiovese wine. Aged 2 years in French barriques. About 60,000 bottle production.



Giorgio Primo, La Massa, IGT Toscana, 2008 (magnum)

Chianti Classico, Giorgio Primo, La Massa, 1998
Former technical director of a family-owned tannery business, Giampaolo Motta acquired the property Fattoria La Massa in 1992. Production is about 160,000 bottles, about 120,000 – 130,000 of which are La Massa. Giorgio Primo’s production accounts for about 20-30,000 bottles. Only 5,000 bottles of Carla are produced. Francesco Bufalini joined in 2005 as Director of the business.

Between 1992 and 2001, Giorgio Primo was sold as Chianti Classico. From 2002, it was sold as IGT Toscana, with still a Sangiovese component. From 2007, the Sangiovese component was removed from Giorgio Primo. The 2015 vintage of Giorgio Primo is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot.



Chianti Classico Fontissimo, Le Fonti, 2008

Le Fonti is a boutique winery with production about 40-50,000 bottles. The Schmitt-Vitali family acquired it in 1994.

The Fontissimo started off as a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2003, Merlot was added to the blend. Sangiovese was briefly removed from the blend in the vintages of 2012 and 2013. From 2014, the wine was returned to a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Sangiovese. Aged 2 years in French barriques.



Sa’etta Chianti Classico Riserva, Monte Bernardi, 2008 (magnum)
The Schmelzer family acquired the property in 2003. The name Monte Bernardi dates back to 1085. The estate covers 53 hectares, of which 9.5 hectares are vineyards. The vines enjoy a southerly exposure, at 350 metres of altitude. Soils are mixed types, with different stone content: galestra (clay-schist), arenaria (sandstone) and alberese (limestone). The winery is certified organic and practises biodynamic viticulture.

The Sa’etta Chianti Classico Riserva is 100% Sangiovese. 50 year old vines. Aged 2 years in 3hl barrels and one year in bottle before release.



San Martino IGT Toscana, Villa Cafaggio, 2008

Situated in the Conca d’Oro, Cafaggio covers 60 hectares, of which 30 hectares are planted with vines, and about 10 hectares as olive grove. The winery’s history dates to 1408.

San Martino is a 100% Sangiovese with a modern touch. Aged 18 months in oak barrels and 6 months in bottle before release. Production of 15,000 bottles.

 

Panzano enrobed in a warm pink hue at dusk

Full list of the 21 members of the Unione Viticoltori di Panzano in Chianti, in alphabetical order:

Basilica Cafaggio

Candialle

Casaloste

Castello dei Rampolla

Cennatoio

Fontodi

Il Molino di Grace

Il Palagio di Panzano

La Massa

La Quercia

Le Cinciole

Le Fonti

L’Orcio a Ca’Di Pesa

Monte Bernardi

Panzanello

Renzo Marinai

Rignana

Tenuta degli Dei

Vallone di Cecione

Vecchie Terre di Montefili

Vignole

Enchanted by Sangiovese

Sep 2018:  On our way to the Panzano in Chianti Wine Festival, we took the opportunity to stop by in Florence for a few days to visit the historic city. We decided to try a different expression of Sangiovese from different regions of Tuscany during our four evenings.

2014 Poggio Valente, Fattorio Le Pupille (based on Sangiovese, with Alicante and others), IGT Toscana
A very pleasant wine that at once delights with its freshness and elegant expression of Sangiovese lifted by the addition of Alicante. Vineyard in Pereta in Maremma. Vinified in 500-600 litres barrels. Silky texture delivering a delicately rounded mouthfeel, lifted freshness, complemented with the openness of bright red cherry and a floral character, spiced with balsamic, that is so endearing. The readiness to approach belies a linear structure and a refined elegance. A medium length finish. A beautiful that deserves to be enjoyed now, but equally over the next 6-8 years. 16.5/20


2014 Nipozanno Chianti Rufina Riserva, Marchesi FrescobaldiA well-proportioned Chianti with balance, freshness, a measured dose of complexity and a Rufina elegance that makes this wine so attractive. It delivers the expectations of a fine Chianti that would go well with a Florentine steak.  Where it let down on depth or length, partly due to the vintage, it definitely gained on elegance, finesse and a very readily approachable charm. 16/20

2010 Asinone, Poliziano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCGThe wine took half an hour in the glass to come together. When it did, we tasted a wine with the richness and immense concentration expected of the vintage, with layers of complexity that combined dried red berries, balsamic, tea leaves and coffee notes, and a refined savoury minerality at its core. An intense expression of Sangiovese with a unique personality and a very persistent finish. A beautiful wine that is sensibly priced. Asinone is only made in the best vintages. Aged in French barriques. Compared with wines from the more illustrious DOCG in Montalcino, this less fashionable example from Montepulciano DOCG delivered excellent quality for its price (as far as Michelin-starred restaurant price lists go)! 17.5/20

This bottle we tried at Il Palagio at the Four Seasons Hotel in Florence.  The service was professional and friendly. As it was a balmy evening, we were able to take our dinner outdoors. The vegetarian starters were particular highlights!

This is a 2015 vintage bottle whereas we had the 2010 vintage.

2012 Percarlo, San Giusto a Rentennano, IGT ToscanaA wine at once immensely alluring to the nose and the palate. Percarlo is a blend of 6 Chianti crus.  A suave and elegant Sangiovese, with balance, intensity and depth, vibrancy, purity of bright fruit and a finesse that transcends from initial attack to the persistent finish. Notes of redcurrant, cranberry, dried herbs overlying a mineral core. It is a very fine example of Sangiovese at its best. Still very youthful and will develop well over next 6-8 years. A modern classic.  18.5/20

We enjoyed this bottle at Enoteca Pinchiorri.  The service was formal, professional and very appropriate for its 3-Michelin star status. The food was exceptional, in particular the risotto with deep fried marrow and capers with red pepper reduced sauce, and the pigeon baked in a chocolate crust. What I found of particular interest was that there seemed to be two dining rooms in the restaurant and every table in our dining room was occupied by foreigners.  Could it be that they put the locals in one room and the foreigners in another???

It was also a little strange that we were not given petits fours with our coffee.......our hope for a little souvenir gateau was sadly squashed too as we were escorted into our taxi at the front entrance!  

The sensational risotto dish, with deep fried bone marrow and capers

The yummy pigeon dish with an original mango chutney and caramelised carrots

A cheese created to mark a monastery's thousandth year

This year, the historic and charming town of Talloires on Lake Annecy celebrates the 1,000th year of the existence of L’Abbaye de Talloires – “Le Millénaire de L’Abbaye de Talloires 1018-2018”.

 

L'Abbaye de Talloires (source: www.abbaye-talloires.com)

However, its historic religious roots went beyond a history of 1,000 years. The Via Consularis of Milan based in Strasbourg reached Geneva via the shores of Lake Annecy, probably near Talloires. Lothaire II, great grandson of King Charlemagne, rejected his queen Thiberge and ordered her to stay in Talloires in 866. Here she remained until her death. During her time in Talloires, Queen Thiberge built a “cella”, a small chapel with shelters to host monks passing by in the country. Later, the monks who decided to settle here had a monastery constructed. The monastery twice succumbed to the ravages of fire during the 17th Century. In 1674, the monastery was rebuilt and Pope Clement X had the priory insignia displayed on the Abbaye Royale. The monastery was completed in 1681. After the French Revolution, the monastery was turned into a winemaking enterprise and later, horse stables in 1840. It was in 1862 that it became an inn and the first hotel-restaurant on the shores of Lake Annecy.



Raymond Michel (Fromager Alain Michel’s father) was contacted to create a cheese to celebrate the abbey’s 1,000th year of existence. During the research in historic archives and with the help of historians, Monsieur Michel pieced together fragments of information that gave him insight into monastic life and particularly their cheesemaking practice in the 17th Century. He was then able to develop the recipe for a cheese that the monks could have been making. It would be something between a Tome and a Tamié, and it would have a thick crust so that it could be preserved for a longer time. This would require rubbing the cheese regularly with morge (solution to rub cheese during affinage). Inspired by a word that appeared in the archives of the period, he named this cheese “Le Florion des Moines”.

Raymond Michel holding a piece of Le Florion des Moines

With a preliminary recipe in hand, Monsieur Michel needed to find a quality supply of milk to experiment the production of this cheese. He contacted André and Monique Boistard at La Ferme in Col de La Forclaz in Talloires-Montmin where they keep 28 cows (mostly Abondance with some Montbéliarde) raised at an altitude of 1,157 metres. (Col de La Forclaz is better known as a paragliding station.) It took several attempts before the right shape and flavours were achieved. First few attempts resulted in a cheese that was too flat, which could not be commercialised. It was not until June this year when the veteran pair (André the cheesemaker at 72 years old, and Raymond the affineur at 81 years old) agreed that they had finetuned the cheese recipe. And voilà - Le Florion des Moines! The cheese is now sold at all the shops of Alain Michel and at La Ferme, as well as being served at the restaurant at L’Abbaye de Talloires.

La Ferme at Col de La Forclaz
(and if you eat here: don't forget to order the seriously delicious beignets de pomme de terre!)

  

This is such a good story that I asked Monsieur Michel if I could ask him some questions about this venture. His response surpassed my expectations – he agreed to take me to the farm to see the production of this cheese! We went on a Tuesday evening in August.



Milking takes place twice a day, morning and evening. Each milking produces about 300 litres to make 15-18 rounds of Le Florion des Moines. We arrived in time to see the evening production – we arrived at around 5:40 pm when milking was almost finished and the production started about 6 pm.

The collected milk is held in a copper vat and heated to 35°C before the addition of traditional rennet. The milk is mixed well with the rennet until the surface is no longer turbulent. The vat is then left for the milk to curdle. This takes about 30 minutes when the surface of the curdled milk resembles the surface of soft jelly or tofu that springs back when pulled away from the rim. (This is easily tested with the back of the hand.) The curdled milk is then cut to create smaller curds. This is done horizontally in an almost zigzag form with a curd cutter and then it is lifted to repeat the same step vertically. This results in small curds, about 1.5-2 cm in size. The curds are left alone for a short while as the whey is being pushed out of the curds. The curds are then stirred around to make them even smaller, almost pea-sized. This continues for about 10 minutes when the whey continues to leave the curds. Part of the whey is removed carefully from the surface (this whey will be used to feed pigs). A piece of muslin cloth is now fitted into a large container and the mixture of whey and curds are poured over the cloth. Each side is lifted gently so that the whey drains through the cloth and runs down the side of the draining table into the whey collection container.  

Andre explaining to Lauriane, Geoffrey and Monsieur Michel the curd cutting process

Draining the remaining of the whey from the curds

The relatively well-drained pea-sized (petit pois!) curds are gathered and put into perforated plastic moulds fitted with a piece of thick gauze on the bottom (the mould measures about 14 cm in diameter and 6 cm high). During the filling process, the curds are gently pressed down by hand to aid further drainage and the moulds are filled to just a convex shape at the top. 

Gathering the curds to put into moulds (sanitised hands!)

Filled moulds

Once all the moulds are filled, they are turned over and returned to the mould. After this first turning, the moulds are turned over almost every hour, about twice before 10 pm. In the morning, the cheese is unmoulded and salted on one side. Half an hour later, it is salted on the other side. The finished cheese stays at the farm for about a week before being transported to Alain Michel’s cave d’affinage for 60 more days of affinage. The cheese is rubbed with morge (or cheese-rubbing solution consisting of whey and salt) twice every week at the beginning and less frequently towards the end of affinage. In total, Le Florion des Moines requires an affinage of around 70 days before it is ready to be commercialised. 

The morning production being salted in the evening

According to Monsieur Michel, the typical Savoyard yield in cheesemaking is 10 litres of milk for 1 kg of cheese, about 10%. With affinage, the cheese loses about 20% of weight, exact loss depending on humidity and temperature of the cave d’affinage and the length of affinage. For Le Florion des Moines, each cheese weighs about 1.6 kg immediately after production and with affinage, it becomes about 1.2-1.3 kg.

Le Florion des Moines in the cave d'affinage

How does it taste? It has a thick crust, thicker than a Tamié. It is a soft-ripened morged-rind raw cow’s milk cheese, with orange/brown spots on the grey rind. The paste is a cream colour, supple and soft. The paste has fruity (pineapple), creamy yogurt, as well as sweet hay notes, complemented with savoury nuances, and earthy character from the rind. The texture is rich and unctuous, melting on the palate, displaying balanced but not pronounced acidity and a persistent buttery finish. It is a sophisticated cheese for the initiated and the gourmands.

Le Florion des Moines is a modern interpretation of historic cheesemaking, made with the milk from one herd of cows on one single farm, and carefully matured by one affineur. A unique creation!

I hope we will still be able to taste this cheese after the celebrations are completed on 22 September 2018. You can read about this programme of celebrations at Talloires at: https://www.talloires-lac-annecy.com/fr/explorer/millenaire-de-l-abbaye-de-talloires

Talking Cheese with Ivy Ng: Who is Alain Michel?

Interview with Alain Michel, Artisan Fromager

Alain Michel

Based in the picturesque lake-side town of Annecy, France, Alain Michel is a 4th generation Savoyard cheese man. Since taking over his father’s “fromager-affineur” business 14 years ago, Alain has built a cheese empire of 5 shops, all within the Haute Savoie region. Building on this success, he has recently designed a new logo to reinforce the brand “Alain Michel Artisan Fromager” and to position the company for the next phase of growth. The Savoyard brand is now synonymous with quality artisan cheeses. The former restaurateur is confident that his reputation will allow him to develop a network of franchised cheese shops in other parts of France and beyond. And if this is not enough to keep him busy, this Savoyard cheese man has plans to open the first cheese bar (bar à fromages) in Annecy!


The flagship shop La Crèmerie du Lac opened in 1969 in Annecy, complete with its very own cave d’affinage built into the foothill rocks of Le Semnoz underneath the Château d’Annecy. 2 years after Alain took over from his father Raymond Michel, he opened another cheese shop – La Crèmerie du Parc in Annecy Le Vieux. During the past 14 years, Alain opened a cheese shop every 2-3 years in the Haute Savoie region. At the same time, Alain has reinforced his management and operations team to position the company for the next phase of growth.

La Cremerie du Lac, 3 rue du Lac, Annecy, France

Towards the end of my 2-week internship at La Crèmerie du Lac in August 2018, I spent a few moments speaking to Alain to find out: “Who is Alain Michel?”

Me at the counter at La Cremerie du Lac

IN: How did you get into the cheese business?
AM: I took over the family business about 14 years ago. I started helping my father at La Crèmerie du Lac (CdL) when I was 15 years old. I worked a month here every summer, helping out at the cellar and selling to customers.

Despite this, I wanted my own career. I was “ski man” for about 5 months, taking people on walks and other sports, before I developed the idea to open a sports shop in La Clusaz. Once I identified the location for the shop, I opened instead a restaurant where I did the cooking and served the clients. So I became a restaurateur……for 14 years. I had 2 restaurants.

When I joined the family business, it was my father Raymond who taught me the profession of affinage*. I admit I got bored after a while because things were not moving as fast as at restaurants. Two years after taking over my father’s business, the opportunity came for me to buy another shop in Annecy Le Vieux, which became La Crèmerie du Parc (CdP) in 2007. It was a big professional step to go from one shop to two shops. But I needed this to confirm and build my interest in continuing the business. Then almost 2 years after this, there was the opportunity to buy another cheese shop in Pringy, which became La Crèmerie des Charmilles (CdCh) in 2010. It was already a cheese shop, like in Annecy Le Vieux. In 2013, I was approached to buy a cheese shop in La Clusaz which then became La Crèmerie des Aravis (CdAr). The most recent opening was La Crèmerie du Thiou (CdTh) in Cran-Gevrier which was originally a bookshop and we transformed into a cheese shop in 2016. You can say I created a cheese shop almost every 2-3 years.

* Explanatory note: There are two transformations that are necessary for the making of cheese: the first transformation is by the fermier/laitier who turns milk into curds and then cheese while the second transformation is where the affineur nurtures the cheese, giving it time to rest in a cave d’affinage with the correct temperature (12°C or less) and humidity that allows the cheese to develop texture, aromas and flavours so that it is delivered to consumers in perfect condition.

IN: Why did your father pick Annecy as the location for his shop?
AM: I am the 4th generation in my family to work in the cheese business. My great grandfather was an Alpagiste and he made Beauforts. My grandfather was a fruitier in Annecy Le Vieux, with my father Raymond Michel. They collected milk and made Reblochons and raised pigs which were fed the whey from the production. After Annecy Le Vieux, they moved to Menthon-Saint-Bernard. They had a laiterie, and they sold milk, vegetables and fruit. Then they moved to Talloires. At that point, my father left the business in Talloires and bought the shop in Annecy. He was attracted to the shop because it came with the cave d’affinage. So you can say he bought the cheese shop because of the cellar.


IN: What is so special about this cellar?

Alain and Loris at the cellar

AM: My father believed that being able to do affinage in his own cave would add a unique profile of aromas and flavours and texture to the cheeses he would sell, compared to those sold by his “fromager” colleagues.

The cellar built into the calcaire foothill rocks of Le Semnoz originally belonged to the Château d’Annecy. It was many things before it became a cellar – a prison, the catacombs and lastly a bomb shelter during the Second World War. Before there were three cheesemongers who shared the cellar, they had all left and my father was able to take over the entire cave.



IN: Was being a cheesemonger always a dream of yours?
AM: My dream career is still being a restaurateur. My mother let me study at the Hospitality School in Strasbourg. With my restaurants, I was able to fulfil my dream career. It’s still a dream.


IN: You have 5 shops altogether. What is the split of sales between retail and wholesale?
AM: At CdL and CdP, the sales from retail have been quite similar. At CdAr, the sales are about 50% retail and 50% wholesale (on-trade to restaurants and bars). At CdL, the sales are about 70% retail. At CdP where we have about 200 wine references, the revenue is almost 90% retail. At CdTh, about 90% retail. Overall, the group’s sales are about 75% retail, and 25% wholesale.

Interior of La Cremerie du Lac, with an extensive cheese counter, and a Savoyard cheese corner on one side and a cold point selling yoghurts, grated cheese, fresh milk and butter on the other side, plus wine

IN: Is the clientele different in each shop?
AM: The clientele at each shop is different. At Annecy, the clientele is generally older. At Pringy, the clientele is much younger and they eat more cheese. For example, the average spend per customer at Pringy is EUR 23-30, whereas at Annecy, the average spend is about EUR 20. Naturally, I have great sales people at Pringy who are good at pushing more sales, often including wine. (CdCh has about 150 wine references available.)



IN: What is your vision for the company? What about your future projects?
AM: The next project is to build a network of franchised cheese shops. I have already changed the logo for the brochures and on the delivery vehicles. (Below left showing the old brochure and the new look with logo on the right). The plan is to market the brand “Alain Michel, Artisan Fromager” to potential franchisees who wish to collaborate with us to take the brand beyond the Haute Savoie region.

Old look on the left; new look on the right

I started the project about a year ago but I ended up having to spend more time on the business in Annecy. I am going to restart this initiative in September/October. Just recently, I had a phone call from Barcelona about a possible franchise in Paris! I believe the possibilities are there. With a structure in place (for example Baptiste looking after the overall Operations, Benjamin the cave d’affinage, Benjamin the warehouse, Fred the delivery, and all the shop managers), I am now ready to grow the business.


I recently bought the bar at the corner, next to the bakery (our tenant actually!). I want to open Annecy’s first cheese bar (“bar à fromages”), that serves wine too. The brand “Alain Michel” should be about cheese – so I want this to be a cheese bar first and foremost, not a wine bar. But we will serve wine, and charcuterie, etc.



IN: Over the years, what is the most important thing you have learnt?
AM: I think the most important thing I have learnt is to know your place and not go too quickly. We are in a business that works with products of the terroir. You have to respect the previous generation in this business. You also have to respect the farmers, even though you know you’re going to make a difference to the products through affinage. So knowing your place and making progress is important. One needs to improve and become better all the time. I could easily retire at my age and enjoy life, but that’s not me. However, what I have really learnt is that I need to have a plan and structure in place before making progress.


IN: Is the next generation in place to take over when you decide to hang up the boots?
AM: My son is 14 years old. At the moment, he has not shown much interest but I am going to teach him what I do. He will be able to do it differently from how I got into the business. He will have the opportunity to go to a Dairy School (L’Ecole Laitier) where he will be taught the technical and business skills. And he will go and live overseas to learn a different language. English as a second language is a business essential now – the minimum one needs to be able to speak to do business. When I was young, I went too early into the business, so my English is poor. But I think it will be a great experience for him to work overseas before coming back to France. Well, that is the plan but it will be up to him.

So I don’t know whether there will be a 5th generation in the business. Perhaps someone will come and take over the business with my name.


IN: But your father is still coming to the shop every day, at 8 am!
AM: Ah yes, but I hope when I get to his age (81 years old), I will be enjoying life and travelling. Perhaps I will go and visit Hong Kong!


IN: What is the score you give yourself as 1) the head of a business; and 2) a cheesemonger?
AM: (Laughs) You know at school, you always get “Needs improvement” (“Peux mieux faire”). So we can say “Needs Improvement” as my score for myself. I guess you can say I have achieved something in life – I have built my father’s shop into a business with 5 shops and 25 employees. It is a bit of an achievement but it’s not enough. The day I hang up my boots and sell my business, then I can say I have achieved something. Right now, I still need to build success upon success. For example, my next project is to make the cheese bar a success. I need to diversify as well – it doesn’t always have to do with cheese. The key driver is to build the business that has a solid structure.

At this stage, I am reinforcing my management structure to make it more precise and rigorous so that we remain profitable. With this in place, I will be able to finally become a real Chief Executive (“chef d’entreprise”) and negotiate better terms for the business.


I don’t need a lot of holidays. Having Sunday and Monday off is enough for me. Mind you, it is already much better than before. I used to go on holiday and I needed my father at the shop to keep an eye on things. Now I can go on holiday, knowing that Baptiste and the team will keep the business running smoothly.


IN: Who is your hero in life? Who has inspired you most in your life?
AM: My father. I am very different from him but he has been a real inspiration. He succeeded in adding value to his products with such tenacity, energy and passion. He really set a very good example for me. I still have much to learn from him. Look at the cheese he created this year – Le Florion des Moines! (IN: more on this in next article)

Raymond Michel, Alain's father

Le Florion des Moines, creation of 2018

IN: What advice do you have for someone who would like to become a cheesemonger?
AM: There is no shortcut. One has to really get stuck into the career. Either you learn on the job, from production to affinage, or you learn at a school, such as the CQP (Certificat de Qualification Professionnel en Fromagerie) in France. You do internships and like you, working 2-3 weeks at different companies, to refine your career idea, what you’re going to focus on. There is now a new certification in France called the CAP (Certificat d’Aptitude Professionnelle Crémier-Fromager) which begins enrolment from September, and which teaches the cheesemonger profession.

Lake Annecy

IN: What do you do to relax?
AM: I do sports – I do water sports and ski. I run sometimes. I do gardening and grow vegetables. We are going to have a dog in the family. To be able to taste the fruit that you grow is a real joy. But I haven’t done much this year – so the garden is not looking very good at the moment. And I love doing cooking. When we go on holidays, I take over the cooking from my wife, so that she can have a real holiday.






IN: Do you eat cheese at home?
AM: I don’t eat cheese at home. Of course, we have grated cheese and cheese for cooking. But no, I don’t eat cheese at home.


IN: Why not?
AM: First of all, (pointing to his stomach) look at this. Secondly, I taste all the time at the shop. To be good at this job, you need to taste every cheese to be able to describe to the clients and give them advice/recommendations. For example, the 24-month old Comté is just fabulous now – very fruity, powerful, very refined with “animale” aromas. We describe a cheese like we describe a wine.


IN: What is your best cheese-wine pairing?
AM: Champagne with Brie aux Truffes is my best pairing. Port is a good wine to pair with a lot of cheeses because its sweetness can really soften the stronger flavoured cheeses. For example, White Port with Roquefort is a very good pairing. At Christmas time, we sell a preparation of Stilton with Port. First we remove the top of the cheese and we pierce holes in the cheese and pour Port into the cheese. Basically, you macerate the Stilton in Port. Another classic example is Vin Jaune with Comté.


IN: How about a less classic pairing?
AM: I once did a pairing with 12 whiskies and 12 cheeses. That wasn’t bad too. And we are about to discover what cheeses we can pair with different sake styles! (IN: Later that day, we tasted a range of 4 sakes brewed in France by a French professional using rice imported from Japan.)


IN: Imagine you were a cheese. Which one would you be?
AM: Le Beaufort! It’s the Prince of Gruyères (“Le Prince des Gruyères”). The Gruyères is a family of all the pressed and cooked paste cheeses (“pâtes cuites”). The family consists of L’Emmental, Le Beaufort, Le Gruyère, L’Etivaz and Le Comté, etc. All these belong to the family of Gruyères. So when we say Le Prince des Gruyères, Beaufort is the prince of the family of pressed cooked cheeses.

Le Beaufort (source: www.fromage-beaufort.com)