2002 Pommard Grand Clos des Epenots, de Courcel
A wine still showing a masculine structure of firm but fine-textured tannins. The nose is still a little closed but layers of complexity await after aeration. 17/20
2002 Pommard Les Rugiens, de Courcel
A totally different style from the Grand Clos. Beautiful lush fruit, cherry stone, and warm spices fill the gorgeous bouquet, showing some sous-bois character. Harmoniously balanced with silky tannins and fresh acidity, delivering a suave mouthfeel, lingering finish with mineral-laden undertones. 17.5/20
If the Grand Clos could be described as masculine, then the Rugiens would be feminine.
On another evening, we compared two Rugiens from the 1985 vintage, one by de Montille and the other by de Courcel.
This came from the Rugiens Hauts. It was absolutely delicious, with no signs of deterioration. Only gorgeous tertiary characters and a very silly palate and a long finish. This was a very pleasant mature wine, so graceful, so charming. 18/20
1985 Pommard Rugiens, Hubert de Montille
Unfortunately the wine had succumbed to slight unwelcome spoilage issues such as volatile acidity and a dirty wet rag aroma that seemed less disturbing on the palate. However underneath this, the wine showed noble lineage (from highly regarded Rugiens Bas) as one of the greatest wines from Pommard. There was a fine structure, depth of character and rich concentration that could have delivered an utterly exceptional experience. 17.5/20 for this bottle
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