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| Level shown here after pouring just the amount in the glass |
4 June 2016: We did not expect this to be promising, given the below shoulder level, but there was just this glimmer of hope, especially with such a precious bottle. Coffee, hazelnut, caramel, burnt sugar, leather, with a high level of aldehydes wafting from the glass. Sercial-like on nose. Volatile acidity dominates the aftertaste but there is still a shade of the bygone glorious and elegant persona. A grande dame that sadly is in the decline ramp.
So we switched to the 1999 Chambolle-Musigny Les Amoureuses, Mugnier. Ruby hue. The purity of fruit overlies the developing tertiary character of sous-bois, mushroom and sweet spice of cardamom and vanilla. Sinewy, vibrant with an initial austerity/tightness characteristic of the vintage. I feel I can taste the brilliance of the winemaking and the attention to the vines during the growing season. There is no hurry to drink this beautifully and sensuously textured and layered nectar. Just coming into drinking window, and more evolution over next 10-15 years. 19/20
We started the evening with a really tasty 2013 Saint Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard, Hubert Lamy. I adore this name for its idiosyncratic image. It is vibrant, with plenty of tension to complement the complexity, followed by a nice long finish! A well-made wine for now or the next 5-6 years. The difference between 2012 and 2013 is very poignant. Such a welcome return to a classic style with an approachability that is so appealing. 17/20
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