From the heights of giving its name to the Côte de Nuits, and being the birthplace of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, Bourgogne’s most famous wine-brotherhood, in 1934, why don't the wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges share the same attention and glamour as those from their illustrious neighbouring commune Vosne-Romanée? True, there is no Grand Cru here.
Nuits-Saint-Georges can be divided into 2 parts: the northern end is adjacent to Vosne-Romanée, and the southern sector straddles Nuits-Saint-Georges the town itself and the commune of Premeaux-Prissey. The northern end boasts some excellent wines, with almost the same degree of finesse as those from Vosne. Examples of which are Aux Boudots and Les Damodes. South of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Premier Cru climats tend to be fleshy, rich and powerful. Examples are Les Saint-Georges, Les Cailles and Les Vaucrains. Into the Premeaux commune, the wines are more delicate and over-extraction could result in excess and the less refined tannins that will take years to soften. Examples are Clos de la Maréchale, Les Argillières and Les Forêts.
There are in total 41 Premier Cru climats in Nuits-Saint-Georges. In terms of red and white production, reds account for 297.06 ha (including 136.32 ha Premier Cru) and whites occupy 9.78 ha (including 6.79 ha Premier Cru). The whites are rare indeed!
For our evening, we started with a Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc, followed by 3 premier cru wines from different winemakers.
2010 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de L'Arlot Blanc
The terroir of the Clos de l'Arlot blanc is rugged and rocky (brown soil on limestone, about 90 cm of top soil). The hillsides are so steep that all work on the vines, often performed with the help of machinery, is done by hand here. Such painstaking work is necessary and worthwile for this vineyard of unique quality and character.
The grapes which come from young vines are vinified separately and make up a cuvée labelled La Gerbotte, Nuits Saint Georges Blanc.
My tasting note: Pale gold in colour. Intense notes of honey, white flowers, pastry and liquorice. The medium weight belies a vinosity and oily texture that makes it almost Condrieu-like, if it hadn't been for the bright acidity. It is definitely a food wine and it paired very well with the oily texture of the salmon tartare prepared by our host. It was a lovely surprise to our friends who had not tasted Nuits blanc before.
1996 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges, Domaine de L’Arlot
The grapes which come from young vines are vinified separately and make up a cuvée labelled La Gerbotte, Nuits Saint Georges Blanc.
My tasting note: Pale gold in colour. Intense notes of honey, white flowers, pastry and liquorice. The medium weight belies a vinosity and oily texture that makes it almost Condrieu-like, if it hadn't been for the bright acidity. It is definitely a food wine and it paired very well with the oily texture of the salmon tartare prepared by our host. It was a lovely surprise to our friends who had not tasted Nuits blanc before.
1996 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges, Domaine de L’Arlot
The Clos des Forêts Saint Georges (monopole) covers a surface of 7.20 hectares, all in one piece. It is a unique terroir in a privileged location which right from its origin has made one of the greatest Nuits Saint Georges wines. The top soil which reaches 50 - 60 cm, consists of clay-limestone gravel, over another 50 cm of small stones, before reaching the cracked limestone mother-rock.
Clos des Forêts Saint Georges is only made with grapes from its oldest vines. This means that grapes from the younger vines are not used for the Clos des Forêts but vinified separately to make Les Petits Plets Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru.
My tasting note: Garnet-ruby hue. Notes of raspberry, dried rose petals, and spice, with just a hint of sappy nuance (possibly from the use of stems at the domaine then). Bright minerality threads through the palate, with silky tannin. Aeration in the glass brought a very elegant integration to the delicate style of the wine. Hint of volatility detected, but it was not enough to detract from the elegance and quality of the beautifully evolved wine. This wine will drink well for another 3 - 4 years.
2002 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Robert Chevillon
One of the oldest climats, this place was already planted in the year 1000. In 1023 it was given by Humbert, archdeacon of Autun, to the Saint-Denis chapter in Vergy; a barony to which Nuits was attached. It is said to have belonged to a Saint-Georges brotherhood founded by the Barbier de Peulle family in 1470. At the end of last century, Nuits was authorised to join its name to the name of the famous "Saint-Georges" vintage.
Exposure east. Altitude is about 245-260 metres. Surface area is 7 ha 52. All berries destemmed at this domaine.
My tasting note: A deep crimson colour. Very intense notes of black fruit preserve, prunes, with some subtle hints of red fruit, musk and some animal notes. Loads of rich concentration, with ripe velvety tannin and bright acidity giving this a very powerful structure. A wine still very primary and will take another 5 - 6 years to unfold its fullest potential, with a long life ahead. A great wine in the making.
2006 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine J-F Mugnier
The Clos de la Maréchale (monopole) has a surface of 9 hectares, 76 ares. It is the largest monopole in the Côte d'Or. The average age of the vines in 2009 is about 45 years old.
The geological stratum on which the Clos de la Maréchale is situated plunges well below the surface of the soil further south, marking the end of the Côte de Nuits, only to reappear in Le Montrachet between Puligny and Chassagne. This would explain the qualities of power and longevity in the wine.
On the first of November 2003, Domaine J-F Mugnier increased from 4 to 14 hectares. The Clos de la Maréchale, under the sole ownership of the Mugnier family since 1902, reverted to the Domaine when the farming contract with Faiveley ended after 53 years.
My tasting note: Beautiful bright ruby. A stylish wine, with elegance and harmony. Notes of red fruit, white musk, with nuances of spice and just beginning to take on some animal notes. A class act with a very long finish. Probably not a wine for the very long haul, but very delicious now and for the next 6 - 8 years.
Clos des Forêts Saint Georges is only made with grapes from its oldest vines. This means that grapes from the younger vines are not used for the Clos des Forêts but vinified separately to make Les Petits Plets Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru.
My tasting note: Garnet-ruby hue. Notes of raspberry, dried rose petals, and spice, with just a hint of sappy nuance (possibly from the use of stems at the domaine then). Bright minerality threads through the palate, with silky tannin. Aeration in the glass brought a very elegant integration to the delicate style of the wine. Hint of volatility detected, but it was not enough to detract from the elegance and quality of the beautifully evolved wine. This wine will drink well for another 3 - 4 years.
2002 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Robert Chevillon
One of the oldest climats, this place was already planted in the year 1000. In 1023 it was given by Humbert, archdeacon of Autun, to the Saint-Denis chapter in Vergy; a barony to which Nuits was attached. It is said to have belonged to a Saint-Georges brotherhood founded by the Barbier de Peulle family in 1470. At the end of last century, Nuits was authorised to join its name to the name of the famous "Saint-Georges" vintage.
Exposure east. Altitude is about 245-260 metres. Surface area is 7 ha 52. All berries destemmed at this domaine.
My tasting note: A deep crimson colour. Very intense notes of black fruit preserve, prunes, with some subtle hints of red fruit, musk and some animal notes. Loads of rich concentration, with ripe velvety tannin and bright acidity giving this a very powerful structure. A wine still very primary and will take another 5 - 6 years to unfold its fullest potential, with a long life ahead. A great wine in the making.
2006 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine J-F Mugnier
The Clos de la Maréchale (monopole) has a surface of 9 hectares, 76 ares. It is the largest monopole in the Côte d'Or. The average age of the vines in 2009 is about 45 years old.
The geological stratum on which the Clos de la Maréchale is situated plunges well below the surface of the soil further south, marking the end of the Côte de Nuits, only to reappear in Le Montrachet between Puligny and Chassagne. This would explain the qualities of power and longevity in the wine.
On the first of November 2003, Domaine J-F Mugnier increased from 4 to 14 hectares. The Clos de la Maréchale, under the sole ownership of the Mugnier family since 1902, reverted to the Domaine when the farming contract with Faiveley ended after 53 years.
My tasting note: Beautiful bright ruby. A stylish wine, with elegance and harmony. Notes of red fruit, white musk, with nuances of spice and just beginning to take on some animal notes. A class act with a very long finish. Probably not a wine for the very long haul, but very delicious now and for the next 6 - 8 years.
Could we conclude much? I would say not much apart from that the wines are Nuits are often overlooked in favour of other wines from Côte de Nuits. So much can influence the quality and our enjoyment: the ambiance, the vintage, the climat, and above all the winemaker. And I didn't even find out whether it was a fruit or root day in the biodynamic calendar!
And finally we finished with a preview of our friends' new wine from their New Zealand winery: a bottling of just 37 rows of their oldest vines planted in the best site. It is not ready for commercial release yet but for sure, it will turn heads when it does reach the shelves (and the palate)! Hopefully, not too soon as it will benefit from some cellaring.
No comments:
Post a Comment