Thursday 1 May 2014

Two Marvellous 1989 Bourgognes!


30 Apr 2014: Dinner at our new favourite bistro: Upper Modern Bistro (HK).....highly recommend the trotter dip and the artichoke macaroni!

1989 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Ramonet
A light golden robe. A most classy bouquet, not at all showing its age - we had liquorice, almond, acacia with distinct smokey and spicy notes. The palate was elegantly structured with beautifully proportioned richness, acidity, complexity and depth. Great detail on the finish. A wine that seems so much more youthful than its age, compared to some much younger Bourgogne whites these days! If well stored, this wine should hold out for another 8 - 10 years! This was the best surprise of the evening! 18.5/20


1989 and 1988 Bonnes Mares, Georges Lignier
The 1989 tasted side by side the 1988 vintage, they shared a similarly mature bouquet of sous-bois, earth, coffee and prune, but on the palate, the 1989 surged ahead with much better defined structure, refreshing acidity accompanying the greater concentration and richness. The finish was also longer. In fact the 1989 continued to perform better and better throughout the evening. While the 1988 did not decline during the evening, there was not much more upside to be had - it remained an easy-to-please version of the Bonnes Mares, with plush fruit and silky texture...but did not have the additional freshness, complexity, energy or structure of the 1989 to warrant a mid to long term cellaring potential. I would drink the 1988 now and keep enough of the 1989 for another 8 - 10 years to see how it would continue to evolve over the years.

1988 Bonnes Mares, Georges Lignier 17/20
1989 Bonnes Mares, Georges Lignier 18/20

And you must try the cheese here - the very knowledgeable Jeremy sources some really interesting cheese selection and we particularly liked the one made by Natalie! 

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