A Nice Treat: 1996 Salon

2 Mar 2013: I was recently treated to a very yummy dinner at Bonheur, a fixed menu restaurant which I hadn't been to for almost 6 or 7 years.  If my memory served me right, then both food and service had really improved.  I started with a Caear salad with smoked eel - I really liked it, the Caear Salad perfectly dressed, without the distraction of over garlicky and greasy croutons, and the smoked eel had a lovely firm texture and a delicately smokey taste.  The Irish razor clams were available as a starter but I asked the restaurant if they could do a pasta dish for me with the razor clams instead. Spaghettini cooked al dente, with garlic and olive oil, spiced up with some chili.  The razor clams in garlic butter nicely perched on top of the pasta.  It was yummy! The rather substantial portion of pasta left me with no room for desserts, but the souffle and apple tart looked rather appealing!

As for the wines, we started with Salon 1996.  A gorgeously bright lemon robe. A very expressive nose of fig, pear tart, ripe apple, acacia, fig, acacia, with smokey and shortbread notes.  Medium bodied and well delineated. Creamy mousse, firm acidity, lots of precision, giving this an invigoratingly long, complex and minerally finish.  Still very much in its youth but sensational!  19.5/20

1982 Château de Rozay, Condrieu: This was the biggest surprise of the evening, as everyone had expected it to be over the hill.  Medium lemon colour.  Intense and elegant bouquet of honey, toasted almond, quince and pear.  Some richness on the palate, giving a medium-full body. Amazing how the wine is holding out, despite the low-ish level of acidity. Crisp and honied finish.  A fabulous match with the razor clams in garlic butter. Drink now. 17/20

1995 Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet: Deep garnet.  Black pepper, plum, chocolate, liquorice with some savoury notes.  Medium bodied.  Lacks concentration and depth, but still an elegant expression of Hermitage.  A drying sensation on the finish which carries a hint of sweetness of the Syrah grape.  Quite a rustic style. Drink now and for next 8 - 10 years. 16/20

1986 Pichon Baron: A very Pauillac nose of cedar, blueberry, blackcurrant, with earthy and leather notes.  A lighter weight Pauillac with a relatively loose structure, that focuses on elegance and freshness than concentration and richness.  Slightly astringent finish but does not detract from the enjoyment of the wine. Drink now.  15/20

1998 Darmagi, Gaja (in magnum): Deep ruby colour.  Black cherries, forestberries, liquorice, chocolate with smokey, tar and herbal notes.  An opulent wine, well balanced and structured with velvety tannin and relatively modest acidity, compared to most Italian reds.  Needed some aeration to shake off the initial austerity.  Initially tight on the finish, and slowly opening up to give a smooth and complex finish.  Definitely a wine to go with food. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 17.5/20

1998 Yquem (in half bottle): Lovely golden colour.  Intense perfume of honey, apricot tart , pineapple and acacia notes.  There is nice complexity, accompanying the richness, without the viscosity, weight or density of the greatest vintages.  A refreshing Yquem with long ageing potential, though perfect to be enjoyed now from half bottle formats. Drink now or keep for next 20+ years.  18/20

The restaurant was rather accommodating in terms of number of glasses per head.  We had 4 per person, plus a dessert wine glass at the end.  Excellent service!