Birthday Treats

20 Mar 2013:  Last weekend, we were treated to a couple of post birthday celebrations:


The first of which took place at The Principal where the chef delivered a truly Michelin-starred array of dishes for us. I particularly liked the slow-cooked egg with artichoke and truffle and the suckling pig, with lemon puree, endives and thyme jus.

1990 Dom Perignon: Straw lemon colour. A very fresh and fragrant bouquet of apple compote, brioche, honey, grilled almonds and ginger. Underneath the creamy mousse of very fine bubbles, the tension and energy is very evident, with vibrant acidity and minerality on the finish. Finishes long and crisp. Enjoy now or over next 6 - 8 years. 19.5/20

1990 Krug: More golden amber in colour. The evolved nose reveals the richness and opulence from caramelised notes of coffee, nougat and hazelnuts. The firm acidity livens up the richness and smoothness in the texture of the mouthfeel. This is a great food wine (it went very well with the slow cooked egg!), to be enjoyed now but there is no hurry to finish this. 19/20

2000 Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard: Exotic fruit and white flowers dominate this gorgeous bouquet with herbal nuances. Initially little tight on the palate, but with aeration, this takes on weight, elegance and complexity. Love the minerally finish. 18/20

1993 Chevalier Montrachet, Leflaive: This is class act, combining maturity, flamboyance, concentration and depth, a very authentic expression of the terroir. The fine details are not lost in the layers of liquorice, nutty, toasty and vanilla notes. Finish goes on and on. 19/20

2001 Chevalier Montrachet, Michel Niellon: A nose of citrus confit, spice and nuts. The palate is painfully stony and austere. The wine seems to be encased in a woody corset, refusing to harmonise. Everything about this wine is of gargantuan dimension, but I cannot find the harmony in all this. 16.5/20

2001 Clos Saint Denis, Ponsot: A brilliant ruby core. The nose is all about purity of red fruit, with a sappy note on the palate. Refined and delicate. A very elegant and classy Bourgogne. Finishes long. Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years. 18/20

2001 Richebourg, Anne-Françoise Gros: Sappy, herbal, earthy and gamey notes dominate the nose. Balanced and nicely structured, but not an outstanding effort. Seems to have reached peak. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 16.5/20

2000 Chambertin, Rousseau: I rather liked this. An expressive wine that speaks of class, power and depth. There was the purity of red cherry, layered with savoury, underbrush, coffee,mushroom, and earthy nuances.  This is not a typically powerful Chambertin, but rather a subtle display of character and depth, with plenty of complexity and suppleness. 18/20

1990 Hermitage, Chave: This really is a fantastic wine. Blackberry, leather, pepper and savoury notes pack out the intensively complex bouquet. The palate was a sensational explosion of palate-staining flavours, with a very very long finish. An incredibly complete wine that probably deserved more time than we gave it. My best wine of the evening! Drink now and over next 15 - 20 years. 19.5/20

1990 Clos des Papes: A true to form Clos des Papes. Fullness in every sense: a very complex nose that almost resembled port, medicinal, slightly sappy, with notes of kirsh, prunes and figs. The fleshy palate was a velvety display of very fine and ripe tannins, bolstered by vibrant acidity, keeping this rich nectar fresh and alive. This is drinking beautifully now, and needed the right food to go with it. Braised lamb shank or a venison stew would be quite perfect with this! Loved the long and complex finish. Drinking now and over next 10 - 15 years. 19/20  



The second dinner we were invited to took a rather different format!  We all had to guess the wines, with the help of tasting notes by experts (without the name of the wine and the vintage!).  It was quite interesting to see how we all drank quite a bit more at these blind tastings, which no doubt helped the atmosphere of the room!  We started with 2004 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, which was nicely taut on the palate. The purity and energy of the wine was very admirable and I adore the zinginess and minerality on the palate, with notes of lemon, Granny Smith apple, white flowers and crushed stones!  For white wines, we had a 2002 Chevalier Montrachet, Vincent Girardin with the unmistakable ripe pear, peach, floral, smoke and toasty notes (perhaps more evolved than expected) and a honeyed and lanolin-like 1990 Laville Haut Brion Blanc.    My best wines of the evening were the double magnum of 1995 Masseto (100% Merlot) and the 2001 Domaine de La Janasse Cuvée Chaupin (100% Grenache).  I really enjoyed these single varietal wines and admired how brilliantly they expressed the sense of place!  The 1992 Grange was the final red wine and perhaps it paled a little in comparison to the 2 previous wines.  It did not possess the power and concentration of the best vintages, but it showed a very refined structure of smooth fine-grained tannin, perfectly balancing acidity and lush and spicy notes of liquorice, menthol and blackberry.   The 1997 Yquem was unctuous and a delight to enjoy its bright golden robe, intense notes of honey, marmalade and acacia, with a nice clean finish, not cloying.  I must confess to preferring this to the birthday cake!   Thank you so much to our generous hosts!      

A Nice Treat: 1996 Salon

2 Mar 2013: I was recently treated to a very yummy dinner at Bonheur, a fixed menu restaurant which I hadn't been to for almost 6 or 7 years.  If my memory served me right, then both food and service had really improved.  I started with a Caear salad with smoked eel - I really liked it, the Caear Salad perfectly dressed, without the distraction of over garlicky and greasy croutons, and the smoked eel had a lovely firm texture and a delicately smokey taste.  The Irish razor clams were available as a starter but I asked the restaurant if they could do a pasta dish for me with the razor clams instead. Spaghettini cooked al dente, with garlic and olive oil, spiced up with some chili.  The razor clams in garlic butter nicely perched on top of the pasta.  It was yummy! The rather substantial portion of pasta left me with no room for desserts, but the souffle and apple tart looked rather appealing!

As for the wines, we started with Salon 1996.  A gorgeously bright lemon robe. A very expressive nose of fig, pear tart, ripe apple, acacia, fig, acacia, with smokey and shortbread notes.  Medium bodied and well delineated. Creamy mousse, firm acidity, lots of precision, giving this an invigoratingly long, complex and minerally finish.  Still very much in its youth but sensational!  19.5/20

1982 Château de Rozay, Condrieu: This was the biggest surprise of the evening, as everyone had expected it to be over the hill.  Medium lemon colour.  Intense and elegant bouquet of honey, toasted almond, quince and pear.  Some richness on the palate, giving a medium-full body. Amazing how the wine is holding out, despite the low-ish level of acidity. Crisp and honied finish.  A fabulous match with the razor clams in garlic butter. Drink now. 17/20

1995 Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet: Deep garnet.  Black pepper, plum, chocolate, liquorice with some savoury notes.  Medium bodied.  Lacks concentration and depth, but still an elegant expression of Hermitage.  A drying sensation on the finish which carries a hint of sweetness of the Syrah grape.  Quite a rustic style. Drink now and for next 8 - 10 years. 16/20

1986 Pichon Baron: A very Pauillac nose of cedar, blueberry, blackcurrant, with earthy and leather notes.  A lighter weight Pauillac with a relatively loose structure, that focuses on elegance and freshness than concentration and richness.  Slightly astringent finish but does not detract from the enjoyment of the wine. Drink now.  15/20

1998 Darmagi, Gaja (in magnum): Deep ruby colour.  Black cherries, forestberries, liquorice, chocolate with smokey, tar and herbal notes.  An opulent wine, well balanced and structured with velvety tannin and relatively modest acidity, compared to most Italian reds.  Needed some aeration to shake off the initial austerity.  Initially tight on the finish, and slowly opening up to give a smooth and complex finish.  Definitely a wine to go with food. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 17.5/20

1998 Yquem (in half bottle): Lovely golden colour.  Intense perfume of honey, apricot tart , pineapple and acacia notes.  There is nice complexity, accompanying the richness, without the viscosity, weight or density of the greatest vintages.  A refreshing Yquem with long ageing potential, though perfect to be enjoyed now from half bottle formats. Drink now or keep for next 20+ years.  18/20

The restaurant was rather accommodating in terms of number of glasses per head.  We had 4 per person, plus a dessert wine glass at the end.  Excellent service! 

An Unusual Birthday Present

4 Mar 2013: Most of us run out of ideas when it comes to anniversary or birthday presents for our loved ones, even for the most creative individuals amongst us. This is the best one I have heard: a plot of vines every year and even more remarkable when the vineyards are in the region where your loved one comes from!  Presents of love from a wife to a husband!



The wines by Holdvölgy

 Year after year, the vineyard area grows in size, to a very respectable area of 25 hectares. With the purchase of a property with a 2-kilometer long cellar dating back to 14th Century, the Holdvölgy winery (literally translates to "Valley of the Moon") was born and entrusted to the brother and sister team, Pascal and Natália Demkó, with their respective skills complementing the technical knowledge and experience of winemaker Stéphanie Berecz.  The 25 hectares, consisting of 19 parcels in 7 vineyards, are located in the Mád Valley of the Tokaji region, where their father comes from.  Using indigenous grape varieties including Furmint, Hárslevelü, Sárgamuskotály, Zéta and a couple others, Holdvölgy's aim is to make handcrafted wines, that marry a deep respect for the terroirs and the traditional custom, with modern day winemaking skills, creative product design and clever branding.  Pascal was very excited about the newly completed winery: like a NASA project in the middle of the sleepy and traditional Mád Valley.  (www.holdvolgy.com)
Pascal jetsetted in for this very special wine tasting dinner at Pierre Restaurant, whose executive chef handled the challenging task of pairing Holdvölgy's wines with 6 different dishes with great dexterity and aplomb, each dish successfully bringing out the character of each wine. 



Seabass carpaccio, with seaweed mayonnaise and mustard ice-cream
 (Sorry, I took the photo when the ice cream had started melting!)

Line-caught seabass carpaccio, seaweed mayonnaise, mustard ice-cream, grilled sweet red peppers 2007 Meditation: Dry wine, made with 100% Furmint, 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel and 20% in barrels.  The pairing with the seabass carpaccio and seaweed mayonnaise was marriage made in heaven!  A very attractive nose of honeysuckle, pineapple, passionfruit and honey notes, layered with almond, toast and smoke.  Medium bodied, smooth texture gently coating the palate to wrap up with a minerally salty finish. Drink now and for next 4 - 5 years.  A very versatile wine for pairing with food, particularly seafood!  17/20

Abalone with tuna and sesame

Abalone/bacon, melba toast with tuna and sesame
2009 Expression: Dry wine, made with 100% Hárslevelü, from the single vineyard of Betsek.  Lime blossom, grapefruit, and herbal nose.  Nicely rounded mouthfeel, creamy texture, balanced by vivid acidity.  The palate is all minerality and purity, with beautiful fine detail and a very long finish.  A wine of pedigree and class. Great stuff. Drink now and for the next 8 - 10 years. 18/20 

Blue lobster, with green tea and almond paste

Blue lobster "aiguillettes", cauliflower cream flavoured with lobster coral.
Green tea and almond paste butter.
2007 Eloquence, Szamorodni (104 g/litre residual sugar): Sweet, made with Furmint and Hárslevelü.  A very interesting rendition of these two grape varieties.  Apricot, orange peel and honey, with toast and nutty nuances.  Interesting dry sensation on the finish, very long.  17.5/20 
The sweet nutty and toasty notes of the wine paired very well with the umami flavours of the lobster coral and the richness of the almond paste butter, and the bitter-sweet taste of the green tea striking a harmonious note with the Szamorodni character!
This dish could also go very well with Meditation.

Pigeon, with black pepper, foie gras, black truffle and blood orange sauce

Provençal Socca, lamb's lettuce salad and pan-seared celery with blood orange; thinly-sliced pigeon with black pepper, foie gras and black truffle.
2008 Intuition No.2, Late Harvest (99 g/litre residual sugar): Sweet, made with Sárgamuskotály (Muscat à Petits Grains) from the oldest vineyard Nyúlászó, aged in French and Hungarian casks.  I had tried this wine before and this had not been my favourite wine of the range.  However, tonight, the pairing with pigeon, foie gras and black truffle, with the very zingy blood orange sauce, spiced up with black pepper, brought to life this wine.  A perfumed bouquet of elderflower, honey and grape.  Full-bodied, perfectly balanced, with firm acidity, that stood up to the zinginess of the blood orange sauce. This pairing was so impeccable that it got voted the best pairing of the night!   18/20  (This wine has now been renamed Exaltation.)

French cheese selection (Ossau Iraty, Vacherin and Bleu d'Auvergne).
2007 Signature, Szamorodni and Aszú blend (125 g/litre residual sugar): Bravo to a concept that embraces tradition with the unique Holdvölgy style.  Made with the 3 grape varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Zéta. The intensive bouquet of honey, apricot, honeysuckle and orange peel wafting up to your nose from the glass.  Medium-full body, bolstered by a perfect amount of acidity to give a lithe and elegant structure, like a ballerina dancing off your palate.  On the palate, it is an explosion of dry Furmint and botrytised Hárslevelü flavours, interlayered with tension and energy derived from minerality and acidity.  Finishes very long.  18/20 
Pascal recommended Fourme d'Ambert with this wine and I, Salers. 

Lemon custard dessert

Clementine syrup: segments, candied rind and Grand Marnier ice cream.
Grapefruit/Campari/rhum sherbet, omiza jelly. 
Large almond lace biscuit: Lemon custard, crisp dessert with lemon and angelica brushed over with olive oil.
2006 Culture, 6 Puttonyos Aszú (174 g/litre residual sugar): Made with fully botrytised Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes. Aged for 2 years in new Hungarian casks.  Medium golden robe.  An intense bouquet of grapefruit marmalade, candied peel, honey, fig,  apricot, quince, macadamia and butterscotch. Full-bodied, unctuous, the decadent richness niftily balanced by searing acidity, giving the very long finish a refreshing and satisfying lift.  An utterly serious wine, lush, seductive and powerful, that keeps luring you back for more, with its memory haunting you for a very long time.  19/20   This is the only traditional Aszú wine made by the winery.  (Pascal said that a dark chocolate dessert could be quite good - otherwise Culture is best enjoyed on its own - I totally agree with him!  Very hard to rival with near perfection!)



Liquid gold served in a porcelain spoon

The final treat was 2009 Esszencia (750 g/litre residual sugar) served in a porcelain spoon, so that we could admire the beautiful colour of this nectar.  One sip, and the mind raced round for adjectives, wild flowers, frangipane, honeycomb, nectarine, quince jelly, candied orange peel, and perfume.  Still in its youth, but this already showed promise as the finest embodiment of all good things about Tokaji: harmony, perfection, precision, heritage and patience.  The finish of this full-bodied liquid gold lasted a minute or longer.  20/20 (Sadly, this product is not available commercially: it is strictly for the family consumption!  And Pascal said very good for his children for curing all sorts of ailments!)

The bottle of liquid gold

It was a truly memorable evening, with very high quality food, exquisite wines and impeccable food and wine pairings, and a very convivial atmosphere.......what a remarkable journey it was and this is just the beginning for Holdvölgy.  I really hope we will start seeing more Holdvölgy wines on restaurant wine lists - they have a very unique identity about them!