La Rioja Alta Dinner

1 Feb 2013: La Rioja Alta, based in Logroño, was the result of post-phylloxera Spain, formed in 1890 when five families of growers got together. From its original holdings in Rioja Alta, they have expanded to own vines in Rias Baixas and Ribera del Duero.  This tasting at Fofo Restaurant (HK) shows that the wines have not only upheld the traditional values, but have also finetuned to modern palates.  Chef Alex did a fine job with the food-wine pairing and came up with some very interesting dishes.

Snapper Ceviche with green peas and beetroot ice-cream

Snapper ceviche, green peas, confit piquillos, roast nuts and beetroot ice-cream
2011 Albariño, Lagar de Cervera



Salt Cod with wild mushrooms and red pepper puree

 Cod fish with wild mushrooms, piquillo pepper purée
2004 Viña Arana Reserva, La Rioja Alta
2004 Viña Ardanza Reserva, La Rioja Alta

Iberico pork cheek, 'mojo picon' potato and chili cream with vegetable garden
2000 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta
1998 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Ala

Pigeon, foie and morel rice
1995 Gran Reserva 890, La Rioja Alta

My brief tasting notes as follows:
2011 Albariño, Lagar de Cervera
Lemon-straw colour.  Fresh tropical and citrus notes of grapefruit, lime, pineapple and peach, with some herbal nuances on the palate.  Medium body, with a refreshingly zingy finish.  Pairs very well with the refreshing snapper ceviche and beetroot ice cream! 16.5/20

2004 Viña Arana Reserva, La Rioja Alta
95% Tempranillo; 5% Mazuelo.  Aged for 36 months in 3-year-old American oak casks.  Deep ruby.  An intense and overt bouquet of black cherry, forest berries, violet, coconut, vanilla and some notes of cinnamon.  Velvety texture of integrated ripe tannin, fleshy with juicy fruit and the freshness of the vintage.  Finishes long.  Very approachable now and perfect for pairing with food.  This was interesting paired with salted cod with red pepper purée - the salt brought out the fruit and made the integrated tannin and acidity even more mellow.  16/20

2004 Viña Ardanza Reserva, La Rioja Alta
80% Tempranillo; 20% Garnacha (from old vines in Rioja Baja). Tempranillo aged for 36 months and Garnacha around 30 months in seasoned American oak.There is more of the old world character and elegance here, combined with a fine structure of firm but well integrated tannin and a good level of acidity.  A graceful bouquet of black cherry, blackcurrant, cloves, chocolate, with nuances of incense, gaining in intensity and weight with some aeration.   The ripeness and richness of the fruit is well carried by the firm structure and elegant freshness.  Would go well with roasted or grilled meat, or even game (would have gone well with the pigeon and morel rice too!). 16.5-17/20

2000 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta
90% Tempranillo; 10% Graciano. Aged for 4 years in seasoned oak.  Lightly filtered before bottling.Compared to the 1998, this was much more accessible and a very good match with food.  A very Rioja bouquet of raspberry, strawberry, plum, white pepper, cedar, leather, with spicy and earthy notes.    A beautifully balanced wine, with a supple mouthfeel and refreshing acidity.  The middle palate took a bit of aeration to round out.  Drinking perfectly now and can continue to age for a long time.  17.5/20

1998 Gran Reserva 904, La Rioja Alta
90% Tempranillo; 10% Graciano. Aged for 4 years in seasoned oak.  Gently filtered before bottling.A more evolved nose of violet, cloves, nutmeg, milk chocolate, mocha, leather, with nuances of coconut and vanilla. Harmoniously balanced, but less generous mouthfeel than the 2000 vintage.   More subtle in complexity and length.  Drinking well now and will continue to age well.  17/20

1995 Gran Reserva 890, La Rioja Alta
96% Tempranillo; 3% Graciano; 1 % Mazuelo. Aged for 6 years in casks.  No filtration before bottling.Flagship wine of the estate.  This is embodiment of the class and essence of traditional style Rioja.   An unmistakable bouquet , intense and complex, plenty happening: black cherry, forest berries, cloves, nutmeg, leather, mocha, incense, sage, chocolate, game, with a savoury note on the palate.  A very supple entry followed by a luscious mouthfeel and explosively intense flavours, with just perfectly balancing acidity.  Finishes long and complex.  Still rather youthful given the time it has spent in oak.  A great Rioja for long term cellaring - 15+ years.  The savoury, gamey flavours paired rather well with the umami-loaded pigeon, foie and morel rice. 18+/20