Wednesday, 4 January 2012

Some Lovely Burgs

4 Jan 2012: A group of us got together for a 1996 and 1999 Burgundy evening at the restaurant Twyst in Sheung Wan.  Not quite sure why we came up with those 2 vintages.....but someone normally breaks the rule.  So we've got a 2003 too for a stylistic detour!


1999 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, Sylvain Cathiard: A very different style from the Rouget. Very open on the nose, earthy, black fruit, a little of the brûlée note and coffee. Mouthfilling and a velvety texture balanced by lively acidity.  Seductive and full-on charm.  Drinking well now and for the next 8 - 10+ years. 17/20

1999 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaumonts, Emmanuel Rouget: Needed decanting. A little closed initially. Quite taut and poised.  Mineral, floral, red and black fruit, tea leaves, spices and herbal. Medium bodied, balanced acidity. Elegantly structured. Long finish. Not quite ready to drink yet.  Can do a couple more years of bottling before trying again. Will drink well for next 10 - 12 years. 17.5/20

2003 Echézeaux, Méo-Camuzet: Stylistically rather atypically burgundy. Quite a beefy and concentrated wine, despite there being some balancing elegance underneath the rich chocolatey, coffee,  liquorice and raisiny nose, redolent of dark plum and cherry preserve. Voluptuous, with mouthcoating texture and ripe tannin.  Hint of burning at the long finish. Great with food - perfect with my duck confit! Drink now with some aeration and can drink well for next 10 - 12 years.  17/20

1996 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Prieuré Roch: Garnet at rim.  Lovely perfume and mid weight frame with firm acidity.  Mature bouquet of pot pourri, forest floor, tea leaves, animale, leather, spices and a hint of caramel. Not the usual muscular structure, less concentrated than I expected. Finishes long.  A gorgeous drop now, quite evolved, plenty of complexity and finesse and will provide great drinking in the next 10 - 12+ years.  18/20
 
We also brought a surprise bottle of Vosne-Romanée, bottled by Lebègue which we opened the previous night and dismissed it as not being on top form.  We had no idea of the vintage but quite likely a bottle from the 50's. Surprisingly, it tasted rather well and could easily compete for wine of the evening!  We suspect it could have been a declassified bottle....which might explain the concentration of fruit, the finesse, structure and length!

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