Sunday 28 November 2010

L'Hostellerie de Levernois, 1952 Musigny Comte Georges de Voguë and a 2007 Coche-Dury

7-hour lamb at Levernois!
18 November 2010: David Boobyer treated us to dinner at L'Hostellerie de Levernois. I thought the vivacious ambiance and bright and modern décor at the dining room of the Levernois was a very welcome change from the rather dull dining room at La Côte Saint Jacques. Both Richard and I thought the food was much more inspiring at the Levernois. Richard said the lobster salad was one of the best he’d had! He was equally impressed by the 7-hour lamb! Howard had a tasting menu and every dish looked really tasty!


We started with a 2002 William Deutz Amour de Deutz. Refreshingly complex nose of pear, citrus,marzipan, acacia, honey and toast, with racy acidity and creamy mousse. A very fine champagne! 17.5/20

Our white wine of the evening was a 2007 Coche-Dury Meursault Chevalières. Despite its youthful and restrained existence, the wine was able to open up a little in the glass to add complexity of smokiness to a very taut citrus and mineral character. A long life ahead, 15+ years. 17.5/20


1952 Musigy de Voguë
bottled by Drouhin
 The contrast with the next wine couldn’t have been more poignant: 1952 Musigny Comte Georges de Voguë, which David had retrieved from our storage in the UK and brought it with him.  Bright garnet core. Beneath the whiff of volatility, the wine was the embodiment of elegance, grace, sensuous complexity. Sweet on entry, with flavours of caramel, chocolate, tobacco, leather, coffee, spices (cinnamon, cloves and ginger) lingering in the mouth for quite a few caudalies! Amazing wine and still holding its structure very well….19/20

It would be a hard act to follow after the 1952 Musigny…..so we picked a 2007 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Procès Arnoux-Lachaux to go with our cheese course. Youthful and fresh in character, red fruit, mineral, floral and earthy……..a very well-made wine indeed! 17/20

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