Tuesday, 25 May 2010

Vinexpo kicks off in HK

25 May 2010: This is a very busy week in Hong Kong. Vinexpo 25 - 27 May and the HK International Art Fair 27 - 30 May. What buzz!

We kicked off this week with the Jurade de Saint Emilion dinner at the Grand Hyatt last night. We were treated to 10 wines from Saint Emilion but not all the good things came last! Wines were served in two flights: (dispensing with the word Château) the first flight included 2007 La Couspaude, 2006 Fonroque, 2005 Chauvin, 2004 Canon La Gaffelière and 2003 Grand Mayne; second flight included 2003 Angélus, 2001 Beau-Séjour Bécot, 2001 Figeac, 2000 Pavie and 1999 Cheval Blanc. We liked in particular the 2004 Canon La Gaffelière which was perfumed, elegant and beautifully structured; the 2000 Pavie was really impressive with its intensity, concentration, complexity, smoothness and length - perhaps Parker got it more right than others - it was a tour de force; the 1999 Cheval Blanc tasted slightly subdued and reserved after the Pavie but it still tasted the finesse and elegance in a wine of exceptional quality. Perhaps I was jetlagged (only got in from Paris in the morning), I was particularly attracted to the approachable style of the Pavie. The chefs did a great job. I was impressed by an unusual combination of duck foie gras, poached egg and truffle. All the ingredients actually blended into total harmony - unfortunately I do not think the dish went with any of the wines....nor did the second course of guinea fowl consommé with filled morels. Main course was a Wagyu beef duo of braised cheek and slow roasted tenderloin. This actually went very well with the Pavie if there was still some left in the glass! Cheese selection and dessert were both rather average - but by that time, the focus was on mingling around with a glass of wine in hand. Interestingly I asked what two prominent figures in the HK wine trade had in their glass during their wander-around, they both had the Pavie in the glass!

25 May 2010: First day at Vinexpo. I arrived a bit late and apparently avoided the crowds! The downside was not enough clean glasses at most booths! I went first to the Decanter booth to say hello to Paul who kindly agreed to help the Decanter team with pouring and setting up. Thank you Paul! I tried a few of the award-winning wines being showcased at the booth. Tried a really tasty 2006 Silverado Solo from Napa Valley. Need to return tomorrow to try others! Then wandered into the Germany section and had a good chat with Dr. Dirk Max Ferd. Richter. Particularly impressed with the Auslese and the Feinherb. He actually told a funny joke and made a comment about the "coca-cola riesling makers"! We then had a most interesting chat with Gontran Dondain of Chateau Cabezac. (Check out previous post when I talked of staying at La Bastide Cabezac in the Languedoc, which was right next door to Chateau Cabezac, and of trying Chateau Cabezac Cuvee Alice!) One cannot help being thoroughly charmed by the enthusiasm of winemakers and owners. It's actually infectious! Gontran was one such enthusiastic and charismatic owner - he explained the range of wines to us and even rinsed our glasses for us!

Then I went along to a Tunisian wine tasting. The wines are made by Les Vignerons de Carthage, the largest winemaker in Carthage. I was very fortunate to be introduced to the wines by Dr. Belgacem D'Khili, the Director Général and Chief Winemaker of the company. I tried a Muscat Sec, a light-bodied aromatic white wine perfect with seafood. Then it was the Magon, AOC Mornag, made from ancient Carignan and Syrah, matured in bottles for minimum 12 months, a light-medium bodied fruity red wine, with good acidity level and very soft tannins, preferably served at a cool temperature - it reminded me of the style of Chinon or Beaujolais cru. Magon is a Carthaginian who was the "father" of viticulture and vinification in Tunisia - he wrote the first book on these topics. Then I tried the Magon Majus, AOC Mornag, with the same varieties, but aged in French oak barrels for 9 - 12 months. This tasted of cherries, black fruits, leather and coffee. Well-balanced, more structured with the backbone of medium level of fine-grained tannins, and with a medium length aftertaste. Mornag is an area in the NE of Tunisia, with a Mediterranean climate. I was impressed by the Magon Majus. I hope they will find a good distributor for Asia.....but a lot of work needs to be done on marketing and brand awareness! I am going to share a bottle of the Magon Majus with our friends coming to dinner at home on Thursday and see what the experts say!

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