Volnays

7 August 2015:

Totally by accident, with just the theme of Volnay being circulated, our small group each brought a Premier Cru bottle from the south of Volnay village, adjacent to Meursault, including Clos des Chênes, Champans and just across the border in Meursault, Les Santenots. Champans and Santenots were already valued as the finest vineyards by successive historians, including Rodier and Lavalle, but Clos des Chênes wasn't recognised for its outstanding quality until much later. Champans (11.2 ha) is typically stony, with marly limestone offering good drainage, over hard Oxfordian limestone. Clos des Chenes (15.4 ha) has two parts, one part (and generally regarded as the better part) above the road D973, with reddish iron-packed soil, well-drained, the other part is higher up, cooler, steeper, with more white limestone marl. Les Santenots, across the border in Meursault, has more clay in the soil, contributing to fleshy body, richer texture and more robust structure, and in the best hands, they share the same velvety quality of tannins as the rest of Volnay. Les Santenots-du-Milieu is the heartland plot, about 8.8 ha within the larger 29 ha of Santenots. Lafon has 3.8 ha of the 8.8 ha.

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

My brief tasting notes as follows:

1999 Volnay Champans, Marquis d'Angerville: There was a distinct metallic whiff and taste. Though there was a good level of acidity, the mid-palate tasted ungenerous, lacking in fruit quality or richness of texture, with an astringent finish.


2002 Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu, Comtes Lafon: this was my wine of the evening. Beautiful aromatics of cherry stone, redcurrant, cardamon, suggesting purety and ripeness. The intense flavours, balancing acidity and velvety tannins coated the palate, lingering for a very long time, leaving a sense of seamless harmony and perfection. This was utterly more-ish. I could have been drinking this all night! A very long life ahead.


1998 Volnay Clos des Chênes, Michel Lafarge: sadly cork taint got the better of this bottle


2002 Volnay Clos des Chênes, Michel Lafarge: earthy, sage, cherry aromas dominated, a slow burner, gradually developing more depth and character as it evolved in the glass, while the vibrant acidity keeping up the freshness. A classic Volnay for both nose and palate. A long life ahead.


1969 Volnay Clos des Chênes, Remoissenet: this was a really pleasant surprise, how well it was holding up. Totally tertiary, but gracefully held together. Finished long.


1966 Volnay Clos des Chênes, Potinet-Ampeau: Sadly this was corked too. What are the chances of getting 2 bottles out of 6 with cork taint??!!


Not quite sure what I concluded from this tasting, but these are certainly very elegant wines, with distinct aromatics, a silky and suave texture and delicate structure that's so different from the Côte de Nuits wines......these are wines that make you reflect...... for me, they are quintessentially Bourgogne.

It would be quite fun to do a tasting of the wines from the Village, the centre of Volnay, and then from the vineyards closer to Pommard, to complete our education on Volnay!

1961 Lafite: perfect with roast chicken on a Monday evening

17 August 2015: Monday, mid August. A simple supper at home with roast chicken......and a bottle of 1961 Lafite Rothschild, to share with a dear friend, in advance of his birthday celebrations later this month! An excellent birth year - this bottle delivered classic and elegant claret qualities, with tertiary character of cigar box and leather, but lacking the body, generous fruit and texture and power of more illustrious 1961s, notably Latour. Despite the variations associated with this wine, this bottle came from very good stock and the level was into neck. In any case, drinking now and soon is recommended!

DuMol Estate Russian River Valley Pinot Noir

1 August 2015: Bright ruby. Intense aromatics, characterised by bright and ripe fruit, with nuances of black cherry, violet, sage, hint of sous-bois. Silky fine-grained tannin and vibrant acidity giving the wine a balanced structure, against the substantial richness of bright fruit. Slightly warming alcohol at finish (14.3% abv). Finishes long. Drinking very well now and over the next 5 - 6 years.


Michael Verlander and Kerry Murphy started DuMol in 1996, driven by a keen passion for Burgundy wines. Since 2000, they had been joined by winemaker and viticulturist Andy Smith who also became Partner of the business in 2005. Smith came with a strong CV, with prior experience under Neil McCallum (Dry River, Martinborough), Ted Lemon (Littorai) and Paul Hobbs. This bottle we tried was an Estate Vineyard bottling, from vines in the Green Valley appellation. Russian River Valley is endowed with substantial daytime warmth (Region III according to UC Davis Degree-Days scale), but is sufficiently moderated by cool nights and morning fogs to ensure slow ripening, an aspect extremely beneficial for Pinot.


2011 would be the fifth vintage of this estate bottling. Pinot clones Calera, Swan, Pommard, 667 and 777 have been planted in the estate vineyard. Burgundian stylistically. Natural yeast and natural MLF. Aged 14 months in approximately 50% new French oak barrels, before bottling unfiltered.

Experiment, experience and explore: the Georgian story has only just begun

17 July 2015: “Georgian wines are trendy. They feature in Michelin-starred restaurants and are sought after by top sommeliers.” opening remark by Debra Meiburg MW as she began the trade seminar on Georgian wine on a scorching day in Hong Kong. With 8,000 years of viticultural history, 525 indigenous varieties and the much-studied traditional qvevri winemaking method that was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013, Georgian wine has a very interesting story to tell.

Bordered by Turkey (South-West), Russia (North), Azerbaijan (East) and Armenia (South), Georgia is 4/5 mountainous, with the most notable mountain ranges known as the Lower Caucasus Range and the Upper Caucasus Range, separated by about 100 km across the country.  85% of the production of Georgia (and 65% of the plantings) is found in the two eastern regions of Kakheti and Kartli, between these two mountain ranges, in the cool foothills between them, where 35,000 rivers flow to naturally keep the vines well-supplied with water.  Soil type in the Upper Caucasus Range is largely sedimentary whereas Lower Caucasus Range is mostly composed of volcanic soil.  Kakheti has the lion share of the 18 AOCs in Georgia, claiming 14 of them. 

During this seminar, we focused on 5 of the 525 indigenous grape varieties, 4 whites and 1 red. Rkatsiteli, with thick skin, and racy acidity, giving it great ageing potential. It is also the most planted white variety in the world, with most of the plantings in Russia. Mtsvane also has crisp acidity, with nutty and pear character, and forms a great blending partner with Rkatsiteli, especially in the case of Goruli Mtsvane.   (Mtsvane Kakhuri grows well on the calcareous soils in Kakheti, whereas Goruli Mtsvane is mainly grown in Kartli, planted in alluvial soils.  It has delicate high-toned aromatics and oxidises easily.)  Krakhuna, indigenous to the Imereti region in West Georgia, is full-bodied and boasts honey, ripe banana and apricot character. Kisi is found in Eastern Georgia, with its characteristic ripe pear, green tea, walnuts and French marigold character.

The 7 wines tasted at the seminar: Bagrationi 1882 Gold Sparkling Brut NV, Chateau Mukhrani Goruli Mtsvane 2013,
Winery Khareba Krakhuna 2013, Marani of Telavi Wine Cellars Satrapezo 10 Qvevri Rkatsiteli 2012,
Tbilvino Mukuzani Saperavi 2012, Winery Khareba Otskhanuri Sapere 2012 and Qimerioni Alazani Valley Semi Sweet Red 2012

I was rather impressed by the 2013 Château Mukhrani Goruli Mtsvane. At 12.5%, this certainly delivered character, crisp freshness in an elegantly vinous manner. The 2012 Marani of Telavi Wine Cellars Satrapezo 10 Qvevri (100% Rkatsiteli) would make interesting pairing with food, with strong nuances of apricot, mango, canned peach, ginger and marzipan, with hints of crushed rose petals and lilac, and phenolics from fermentation and ageing in qvevri followed by a brief period of oak ageing, there was a rich texture to balance the depth of character. Such persistent finish.

As for the reds, I rather liked the freshness and fruit-focused nature of the 2012 Tbilvino Mukuzani Saperavi, with judicious oak treatment. Saperavi is the pride of Georgia, with great ageing potential, typically endowed with full body, high acidity, high tannins, deep purple colour in youth, with ripe cherry, forest berries, dark chocolate, grilled meat and liquorice, with hints of bay leaf. Saperavi can be found in diverse styles: unoaked, oaked, qvevri, qvevri and oaked!

Qvevri capacity ranges from 2 - 3 litres to 6,000 - 8,000 litres.  The exterior of qvevris is treated with lime wash, which enables the qvevri to preserve and sustain temperatures at higher than the ambient temperature, resulting from fermentation.  The interior needs to be thoroughly washed, dried and sanitised before using.  For highly porous qvevri material, the interior is coated with a layer of beeswax to avoid leaking.  Traditional qvevri winemaking is based on extended skin contact between the must and the chacha (skins, pips and stems) during alcoholic fermentation and often after (see below reference to Kakhetian winemaking), a process that helps extract phenolics (notably tannins) into the wine and improve its ageability, stability and resistance to oxidation.  At the end of the fermentation, the grape seeds settle into the pointed cone-shaped bottom of the qvevri, covered by the lees, leaving the skins floating on top, propped up by the carbon dioxide from the fermentation.  The wine is thus able to extract phenolics from the skin for a period of time to further enhance wine stability, including the removal of excess proteins that could later lead to protein haze.  The end of the completion of fermentation also coincides with the falling of ambient temperatures and the onset of colder weather, thus facilitating the precipitation of tartrates. Silicon (a high quality crystal) in the qvevri walls also acts as an agent to precipitate tartrates, with the same effect as addition of tartrate crystals.  The lids are only put on at the end of the fermentation.  The qvevris are kept underground at 7 degrees, so that the wine can be kept at a constant temperature range of 13 -15 degrees Celsius.  This ability to maintain stable temperature is important for the initiation and completion of malolactic fermentation.

The eastern or Kakhetian-style winemaking for the whites, uses all the pomace from the crushed grapes and ensures extended contact with chacha in the qvevri throughout the spring (beginning of March).  Wine made this way acquires a dark straw or golden colour, and is clear and bright, with fruity tones, and has been rendered stable naturally.  For Kakhetian saperavi, the wine is typically separated from the pomace as soon as the fermentation is completed and the wine, clear of pomace, is returned to the qvevri.   The western or Imeretian-style winemaking (with the clay vessel known as churi) only uses a third of the pomace, which is poured into the qvevri from the wine press, and the must is left in contact with the chacha for one month for both red and white varieties.  It is believed that the traditional qvevri winemaking methods in Kartli and Meskhet-Javakheti would be similar, using a part of the pomace for a period of time.

Only wine that has been fermented and aged for some time in the qvevri can be called Georgian traditional wine.  Qvevri wine can be stored unspoiled in qvevris for a long time (2 or more years) if conditions concerning storage, marani design (marani is a traditional Georgian wine cellar) and sanitation are met.  Wine quality is influenced by many factors, including quality and cleanliness of the qvevri, post-fermentation temperature, grape variety, location of vineyard (soil types, local customs), vintage and climatic conditions, phenolic ripeness of grapes at harvest, length of fermentation with pomace, and hygiene of the marani.

Georgians are very insistent that their wines are not orange! They are amber wines.  Qvevri-making is a skill that now only belongs to a limited few and If anyone wants to try experimenting with a qvevri, you need to start ordering one now, as there appears to be a 5-year waiting list for these precious egg-shaped clay vessels that are almost impossible to clean properly due to their large size and underground position!!

Saperavi is the pride of Georgia, but I rather admired the whites from this tasting......such thriving acidity and character......the diverse styles (oaked, unoaked, with or without qvevri) would make versatile pairings with our diverse cuisine types in Asia!  As this is still an emerging wine region, the quality is not as consistent as one would hope.  With some, the wineries get it so right with the qvevri winemaking, that it's like the greatest thing since sliced bread (or in this case, since Cabernet Sauvignon?!)!  With others, technical improvement and winery hygiene may be necessary. If you can keep an open mind, the discoveries can be very exciting and you cannot wait to spread the word!

Gaumarjos!

Hong Kong Thinks Pink

9 July 2015: Just before Typhoon Linfa temporarily shut Hong Kong down for a few hours, about 20 trade professionals turned up for Rod Smith MW’s talk on “Think Pink: La Vie en Rosé” organised by SPIT, a membership-only community started in 2014, dedicated to the professional training and development of Hong Kong’s wine trade professionals, based on a series of skills development workshops with topics such as winemaking and viticulture techniques and trends, selling, marketing and negotiation skills and training on social media. During the first year, SPIT organised 12 workshops plus a full day seminar, with a number of industry-respected experts and speakers amongst the guest speakers. Think Pink kicked off the second year of workshops.

The selection of rosé was sourced from France (Provence and Tavel) and Australia (Barossa). Smith enhanced the tasting with images of picturesque Provence and Mont Sainte-Victoire. A very similar number voted for the Turkey Flat Barossa Rosé as for the Whispering Angel, Domaines Ott Château de Selle Coeur de Grain or Château Coussin. The wines were appreciated for different qualities, including strident pink colour as sign of romance, the light residual sugar in some rosé for its pairing ability with mildly spicy Asian cuisine and savoury character as ideal for pairing with the multi-faceted flavours of Cantonese cuisine. Smith also highlighted a few interesting rosé producing regions not featured in the line-up, such as Corsica, Bandol, Rioja/Spain, and Sardinia, and Mateus, with its more recent introduction of dry style Expressions range, to differentiate from the traditional off-dry bestseller.

Debra Meiburg MW, moderator and founding chairperson of SPIT, encouraged the group of trade professionals and sommeliers to put more rosé wines on our wine lists – not just one! The customers needed to be educated about the diversity of rosé and it would be a shame to limit its availability in the on-trade and supermarkets. Rosé can be enjoyed throughout the year. To reinforce the message that rosé does not need to be forced into a summer seasonal offering, the second half of the workshop saw the group breaking up into a brainstorming session on how to sell more rosé in Hong Kong. Hong Kong is a predominantly red wine market (according to a report by USDA Foreign Agricultural Service, about 95% total wine imports into HK were red in 2013 with white wine accounting for 5% in the same year), despite visible signs of increasing white and sparkling consumption. The group came up with this party line: an affordable everyday tipple that can be enjoyed with or without food. Or swap the Champagne with rose to kick off a party? Restaurant owners were tipped to play their part in contributing to the community by sharing a percentage of rose wine sales to breast cancer charitable concerns. And how about World Dress Pink Day?!

The entwined fates and grapes of Corsica and Sardinia

June/July 2015: Separated by just 12 kilometres of the Strait of Bonifacio, Corsica and Sardinia (south of former), though now being part of France and Italy respectively, were both under Roman rule for almost 700 years once upon a time.

 

source: www.wikipedia.org

Corsica, the 4th largest island in the Mediterranean, was first colonised by the Phoenicians and had been under Etruscan and Carthaginian influence until 237 BC when it came under the Roman Empire. Amongst other changes, the Romans installed Latin as the language of the island. All changed in AD 430 when the Romans were defeated by the Germanic Vandals. After Pepin the Short, Frank King Charlemagne’s father, successfully expelled the Lombards from the island, he gave it to Pope Stephen II. In the 11th Century, the island came under the protection of the Pisans who had successfully defended the island against the Arabs. Tuscan influence started to dominate the island, including the local language spoken in the northern part of the island, which bore much resemblance to the Tuscan language. Many years of fighting ensued and after the defeat of the Pisans by the Genoese in the Battle of Meloria in 1284, Corsica eventually fell under Genoese control, much contested by the King of Aragon who had been promised the island by the Pope in 1296. 

Genoese control lasted around 5 centuries, during which time both Aragon and France had made many attempts to take over control of the island. Short-lived peace came when the Genoese ceded administrative control to the Bank of Saint George in 1450, before the island became embroiled in the fight between Spain and France for supremacy of Italy. In 1553, Genoese control was reinstated and in return for improved living conditions and diet for the Corsican people and reinforced defense against the pirates from North Africa, it levied heavy taxes which eventually led to the Corsican Revolution for Independence in 1729. The Corsican Republic under the leadership of Pasquale Paoli was instituted in 1755 while the Genoese still had limited coastal strongholds. After the conquest of Capraia by the Corsicans, the Genoese decided to sell the island to France in 1767 and ceded all rights to the island in 1768 following the Treaty of Versailles. The French were naturally met with resistance by the Corsicans and it took the French victory at the Battle of Ponte Novu before Corsica succumbed to French rule. This episode did not just end here. When Pasquale Paoli returned from exile in Britain to Corsica in 1789 during the French Revolution, he invited the British to intervene with the French rule. Anglo-Corsican forces drove away the French forces for a short while. With Spain entering into the war, the British withdrew and Corsica reverted to French rule in 1796. 

Nicknamed l’Ile de Beauté or Island of Beauty, two-thirds of the landmass of Corsica is mountainous and boasts one of Europe’s most famous hiking trails (GR20) and a UNESCO World Heritage site of nature reserve inside its natural park (Scandola Nature Reserve). With such mountainous landscape, it features 3 distinct ecological zones – Mediterranean coastal (below 600 metres), temperate montane (600 – 1,800 metres) and Alpine (1,800 – 2,700 metres). The highest point is Monte Cinto at 2,706 metres. The local maquis (or machja in local language or shrubland) could be held responsible for the aromatics of its wines. The island enjoys 2,885 hours of sunshine in a year.

 

source: www.enoteca.com.au

Sardinia, the second largest island in the Mediterranean, is now an autonomous region of Italy. Sardinia, like Corsica, had been favoured by the Phoenicians as an important source of lead and silver, as well as its strategic positioning in the Mediterranean Sea. The Phoenicians sought the help of the Carthaginians to overcome the resistance by the locals towards their colonisation. In 238 BC, Carthage was defeated by the Romans in the First Punic War and thus surrendered both Corsica and Sardinia. The Vandals conquered Sardinia in AD 456. In AD 533, it became part of the Eastern Roman Empire (or the Byzantine Empire). By the 10th Century, a group of autonomous rulers called giudci (or in Sardinian judikes) had emerged in Sardinia. Initially 5, the giudicati became consolidated into 4, and were constantly the subjects of contest between the Genoese and the Pisans, and later the Kingdom of Aragon.

The Giudicato of Cagliari’s alliance with the Republic of Genoa was brought to an end in 1258. The territory was divided between Pisa, the della Gherardesca family and the Giudicati of Arborea e Gallura.

The Giudicato of Logudoro (sometimes called Torres) was also allied to the Republic of Genoa but came to an end in 1259 after the death of the judikessa (queen) Adelasia.

The Giudicato of Gallura ended in the year 1288, when the last giudice, Nino Visconti, was driven out by the Pisans.

The Giudicato of Arborea, with Oristano as its capital, had a longer life compared to the other giudicati. Thanks to the effort of Eleanor of Arborea, it tried to unify the island into a single Sardinian state (Republica Sardisca) against their relatives and former Aragonese allies.


In 1324, after a military campaign led by the Catalan-Aragonese Crown Prince Alfonso, the hypothetical Kingdom of Sardinia and Corsica that had been created by Pope Boniface VIII in 1297 as a political bargain in return for peace in Sicily, officially became the dominion of the Kingdom of Aragon. The Arboreans had control of almost one third of the island and had fought against the Crown of Aragon and secured more control with Genoese support. The Arborean control gradually diminished following the death of Eleanor of Arborea in 1404 and the defeat of the Sardinians by the King of Sicily (and heir to Crown of Aragon) in 1409. The ownership of Sardinia was eventually passed to King Charles I of Spain, following the marriage of Ferdinand II to Isabel of Castille. Sardinia remained under Spanish rule for over 400 years, from 1323 to 1708, thus leaving a legacy of cultural and linguistic influences. In 1718, Sardinia having survived a brief period of Austrian rule, was passed into the hands of the House of Savoy. The Italian Wars of Independence resulted in the unification of Italy and in 1861, the government of Sardinia decided to adopt the King of Italy as its king.


The entwined fates of Corsica and Sardinia and documented history have provided a feasible explanation for the origins of Corsican and Sardinian grape varieties.

 

Corsica and Sardinia both share the white grape variety of Vermentino, supposedly to have come from Spain to Sardinia via Corsica. In Sardinia, a number of versions exist. The 2013 Pigalva Vermentino di Sardegna DOC by Giovanni Cherchi is an elegantly fruit-focused rendition of this variety, showing herbal, almond, lightly frangipane and citrus nuances, highlighting crisp acidity and a saline finish that reminds of sea spray, due to proximity of the vineyard to the northwestern coast of Sardinia. (Chef Marco Maggio brilliantly paired this with a Catalan lobster carpaccio dish at a wine tasting dinner organised by Italy Small Vineyards.)

 

Azienda Vinicola Cherchi is based in Usini, in Logudoro. Established in 1970, it now has 30 hectares of vineyards planted at 200 metres, with 55% Vermentino and the rest between Canuglari and Cannonau. Proximity to the sea not only gives rise to certain distinct aromatics but also air circulation for the vines against humidity and diseases, thus contributing to the limited use of chemical products. Though experiencing declining planting across the island, due to its low productivity and difficulty to cultivate, Canuglari with its compact clusters and thin skin, is much valued by Giovanni Cherchi who has been able to turn this grape variety into respectable wine. 

Cannonau is the local name for Garnacha/Grenache, reflecting its Spanish influence. I tried the 2012 Cannonau di Sardegna DOC with aromas of red cherry, plum preserve, liquorice and earthy nuance, fleshy body and balanced acidity.

 

Another impressive version is the 2010 Li Pastini Vermentino di Gallura DOCG by Cantina Li Seddi, showing savoury complexities of lanolin, pine, fern and honey, with just a hint of phenolics (possibly from limited skin contact?) to give texture and structure, balanced with vibrant acidity. Very low yield of grapes from sandy soils near the sea. Cantina Li Seddi is based in Badesi, in Gallura. (The chef had paired this with fregola with seafood sauce and tiger prawns.)

 

An interesting version was also tasted: a Metodo Classico sparkling Vermentino di Sardegna by Giovanni Cherchi.


I tried a couple of Corsican wines at Vinexpo. I very much admired the red of Domaine Comte Peraldi. Vines were first planted at this domaine in the 17th Century, when it was the property of Papal legate, Monseigneur Mario Felice Peraldi. When he died, his grand nephew Jean Peraldi inherited the estate. At the death of Jean, his daughter Germaine inherited. Germaine was married to Comte Charles de Poix. Germaine's daughter Bénédicte de Lussac who had inherited the vineyard, did not show much interest in her inheritance and sold it to her brother, Louis de Poix in July 1965. Louis de Poix became fervently passionate about the vines and rallied the support of other growers to fight for the granting of AOC Ajaccio, which was finally awarded in 1971. Louis diligently set off a series of viticultural and vinification improvements, to achieve the best quality possible. In 1988, endowed with such family history and expertise, Louis's son Guy took over and succeeded in building on the family heritage and passing onto his 4 children upon his decease in 2011.

 

The red Domaine Comte Peraldi that I tried was a blend of 60% Sciaccarello and 20% Nielluccio. Cinsault and Carignan making up the remaining 20%. Elegantly structured with refreshing acidity, purity of ripe fruit, with alluring aromas of bay leaf and pepper and velvety tannins. Nielluccio is genetically identical to Sangiovese, whereas Sciaccarello is the same as Mammolo from Tuscany, typically used as a minor component of Chianti and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. Mammole is the word for violets, accounting for the floral quality of this grape.


The white from Domaine Peraldi would be 100% Vermentino, but I didn't get the chance to try it at Vinexpo.

I tried instead a rosé by Clos Venturi, which showed a nice texture and structure. Clos Venturi, owned by the family Venturi-Acquaviva, is the highest vineyard in Corsica, located at the centre of the island. The vines are grown according to organic or biodynamic principles.

Corsica is a large producer of rosé wines, relevant to its production volume (I understand that more than 75% of  its IGP production is rosé) - from what I tasted, the colour seems a bit deeper than Provencal rosé, with similar freshness and a little more body and weight.

Vosne in 2002

14 July 2015: It's Bastille Day! We raised a toast to our French friends with a glass of 2002 Clos Cazals as we sat down to our meal at Old Bazaar! The theme for this evening was 2002 and Vosne-Romanée but we did allow a couple of aberrations to make it into the mix.

 

Perhaps it was the heat and humidity, the 2002 Clos Cazals Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut went down like a treat. Clos Cazals is in Oger, in the Côte des Blancs. For decades, the family had blended the wine from Clos Cazals with that from Le Mesnil sur Oger, both being of Grand Cru quality. It wasn't until the 1990s when Delphine convinced her father Claude to turn Clos Cazals into a separate cuvée. It was named Clos Cazals by Delphine, to retain the family name Cazals, given she’s an only child and married. The 2002 was filled with energy and showed layers of complexity, with a fine thread of minerality through to the finish. A very elegant Blanc de Blancs.  I would love to try it again when it's slightly better chilled!

The next wine was a 1990 Reserve Sekt by Weingut Peter Lauer from Ayl in the Saar, disgorged in October 2012. This meant it had spent 22 years on lees! It was amazingly fresh, and well-balanced against the light sweetness. Pronounced bouquet of kerosene, honey, dried pineapple and nutmeg, with slightly smoky nuances. Mouth-coating, expressive and finished crisp and long. Such a great discovery (and at a great value too, if you can still find it)! It went very well with the drunken goose liver and the cold abalone with wasabi sauce.

Then we began a flight of 2002 wines from Vosne-Romanée:

2002 Vosne-Romanée Les Petits Monts, Mongeard-Mugneret: the colour appeared dull. Out of condition.

2002 Vosne-Romanée Les Gaudichots, Nicolas Potel: cool, elegant and sinewy, with an airy lightness. I liked the nervosity and the purity of the fruit. Seamlessly integrated and beautifully balanced, while not possessing the persistence or concentration of its neighbour La Tâche.


2002 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, Sylvain Cathiard: it showed an intense bouquet of fine spice and blackberry fruit, velvety texture and mouthfilling richness and concentration. A powerful display, almost meaty on the nose initially, it took the time of the entire evening to evolve.


2002 Romanée Saint Vivant, Nicolas Potel: I was convinced this was mildly corked. It did not quite deliver the fruit quality but this did not detract from the elegance of its class. There was perhaps just sufficient perfume left for a few of us to keep enjoying it.


2002 Echézeaux, Robert Arnoux: this wine has just arrived at its perfect drinking window, with all the elements harmoniously integrated to give a silky texture, with the characteristic earthy and spicy notes underneath the pure elegant ripe fruit, and an almost sweetness to the nose. A very pleasurable wine to enjoy now and over the next 6 – 8+ years.


2002 Richebourg, Méo-Camuzet: a very classy wine, with so much detail, majestically delineated within a velvety and rich frame of fine tannins and well-balanced acidity. Rather reserved, a little unyielding even. It will take a few more years to allow the wine to reach its full potential. A profound wine of such depth, persistence, strength of character and richness of texture. Just a pity we didn’t quite give it sufficient time to evolve!  A very long life ahead!

And the outsider!

1990 Bonnes Mares, Fougeray de Beauclair: This showed the hallmarks of the richness and opulence of 1990. An appealing wine, velvety textured, with spicy and earthy complexity, still holding well together and typical of its appellation.  Definitely at peak now.  Perhaps a little chunky when tasted right behind the reserved, sophisticated and elegant Richebourg.


With the clean bottles, 2002 has truly lived up to its expectations: purity and ripeness of fruit, elegance, beautiful detail, well-balanced acidity, fine tannins. We sensed a very stylish approachability about these wines, and yet they clearly demonstrated the structure that would reward years of cellaring. A great vintage indeed!