Talking Cheese with Ivy Ng: Who is Myriam Bilbault?

25 January 2019 (updated on 10 July 2019):

Riding on the success of its wine bars in Paris, Hong Kong and Singapore, French-owned and operated group, Le Quinze Vins (“LQV”), opened the much-anticipated artisanal French cheese specialist, La Crèmerie, on Swatow Street, Wanchai, Hong Kong, in July 2017. With a compact temperature and humidity-controlled "cave" (aging cellar) at the back of the shop, La Crèmerie is able to offer to cheese connoisseurs a selection of cheeses, especially the soft-ripened and goat cheeses, at various stages of "affinage" (maturity). LQV has since opened another one-stop French gourmet concept on Caine Road in the Mid-Levels district, bringing French meat, cheese, more than 1,000 references of wine and other gourmet products to this rejuvenated residential neighbourhood, popular amongst the young legal and financial professionals in Hong Kong's CBD. The space features a wine bar in LQV's signature contemporary minimalist design that opened in April this year.  The group has recently introduced an online shop featuring their most popular products, available for delivery or collection at the shop). (www.lqv-group.com)

La Cremerie, Swatow Street, Wanchai

Born in 1990, Myriam Bilbault lived the first years of her life on the island of Réunion before returning to France when she was 12. Her father had taken over a farm in Limousin in 2004 and the family then settled in this region in the centre of France. Myriam pursued hospitality studies in Chamalières, near Clermont-Ferrand. After having worked a few internships at different gastronomic restaurants, she decided to return to her first passion - cheese. Having seen how little recognition is received for the extraordinary amount of hard work required on the farm, she went in search of an internship at a cheesemonger. In 2011, she started her internship at the family-owned cheesemonger Fromager Alain Michel in Annecy, an affluent French town bordering Switzerland. With some encouragement and much support from Alain, Myriam took part in a number of competitions which allowed her to learn a lot about herself and also the career in cheese. At the National Cheesemonger Championships, being part of the International Hotel, Catering, and Food Trade Exhibition (SIRHA) in January 2013 in Lyon, Myriam took home the third place as well as the title of first place in the Under 26 category.

 

The top 3 winners of the National Cheesemonger Championships in January 2013

Myriam's cheese platter that won her third place and top position in the Under 26 group

With the Certificat de Qualification Professionnel en fromagerie (“CQP”) in her hand, Myriam was ready to explore the world. In 2015, she left Annecy to travel and learn English in Australia. She worked at Spring Street Grocer in Melbourne before leaving for New Zealand where she wanted to get work in a vineyard. Fortunately for us in Hong Kong, Myriam did not stay long and was approached by LQV to take charge of their new cheese shop in Hong Kong. No persuasion needed! At age 27, Myriam readily accepted this challenging and exciting offer and landed in Hong Kong in July 2017.


Cheese Master, Myriam Bilbault CQP, speaks to Ivy Ng about her experience with cheese, her aspirations and vision.


IN: When and how did you decide to become a cheesemonger?

MB: Even though I already had experience of working with cheese alongside my father since 2004, it was not until the summer of 2011 when I started my internship at Fromager Alain Michel (La Crèmerie du Lac) that I decided I would build my career on cheese.

At the time, I was looking for an inspiration, something that would get me excited. Cheese is a living product - we never know exactly how it is going to evolve. This is what makes it so exciting in our profession. The products are never the same.

La Cremerie du Lac where Myriam cut her teeth in cheesemongering

Alain Michel

IN: What are some of the lessons you can share with young people who wish to join this industry?

MB: Just follow your dreams and ambitions. Never be afraid to go further. Whether it is this industry or another, as long as you are passionate about the product you are working with and you do your job whole-heartedly, you will be rewarded with success.

 

Myriam cherishing her recognised success in 2013

IN: Is working as a cheesemonger in Hong Kong very different from working as a cheesemonger in France or Australia?

MB: In general, people here are less well educated about cheese but they are very nice once you get to know them. It takes more work to arouse their interest and to encourage them to taste more and different cheeses. Once they have a taste of something different, they will be better persuaded to buy cheeses other than the classic ones, such as Comté or Brie. After a year and a half in Hong Kong, I have definitely noticed a change in customer purchases – there is now more diversity. Also, here people are not afraid to say they do not know – they are more humble than the customers in France or in Australia.

As for my fellow compatriots, they are much nicer than the ones in France and they are open to discuss with you! 😊 This is very refreshing!

Space is an issue in Hong Kong – it is a bit limited here. Also, it is difficult for us to source exactly what we want, whether it is equipment, grocery products or cheeses. We do not always have access to the best quality possible. As far as managing lead time for product shipment, it can be a challenge sometimes with so many different festivals and public holidays in the year.



IN: How have you found the cheese ‘palate’ of Hong Kong local customers?

MB: They used to buy mainly Comté and Brie but have begun to be interested in other less conventional selections. They have become much more open to new suggestions since we opened in July 2017. This is a positive change!



IN: Who is your hero in life? Who has inspired you the most?

MB: There are many who have guided me along the way, but I would like to say my hero in life is my father. My father is not very polished but he has always pursued what he wanted to do. He has never allowed anything to stop him from following his dreams. He has encouraged me to do what I wanted to do, to always go further even if the road can be difficult at times, and to never give up until a solution is found. He has taught me to be demanding on myself (and others!)!



IN: What is your vision for La Crèmerie and cheese in Hong Kong?

MB: I am very optimistic. I expect that we will continue to grow. I would like to go further and not stop at just Hong Kong. We need to improve on the things we do less well and continue to develop. 

Myriam about to cut a slice of Comte!

Myriam serving clients at La Cremerie

IN: What is your best cheese experience? Your best cheese and wine pairing?

MB: I want to say that my most treasured experience with cheese is tasting the fresh cheese in “faisselle” that my father makes at the farm. Otherwise, for a cheese and wine pairing, it would be a Sancerre with a Crottin de Chavignol “demi-affiné” (semi-aged).



IN: What do you do to relax when you are not working with cheese?

MB: I love walking by the seaside or going on a hike. I also go to the gym which relaxes me.



IN: Do you have a favourite cheese dish or a favourite cheese creation and why?

MB: I do not really have a favourite dish based on cheese. I like them all equally. But I do like adding cheese to my dishes, salads, etc.

As for a specialist cheese creation, I love Stilton marinated in Port wine. I like the texture of Stilton, which is a bit dry and crumbly and yet it melts so beautifully in the mouth. Port wine has notes of dried fruit and its sweetness softens the strong taste of the cheese.



IN: If you were a cheese, which one would it be and why?

MB: If I were a cheese, I would say a Tomme au Génépi – natural, a little sharp in taste, firm, aromatic, genuine with character. You either like it or not – there is no halfway!

(IN: Génépi is a herbal liqueur very popular in the Alpine regions, and it is also the plant "wormwood" of the family Artemisia that gives this liqueur the distinct aroma, flavour and colour.)
 

Tomme au Genepi

Uniquely Bourgogne: 'Extraordinary' Appellations

15 Jan 2019:  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir represent over 90% of vine plantings in Bourgogne. This special Bourgogne wine masterclass turned the spotlight on the minor grape varieties and less common appellations that rarely make it to the export market. The class of 12 students joined me in my enthusiasm to taste the selection of wines, specially selected from the cellars of Bourgogne Wine Board ("BIVB"). #bivb

A very attentive class!

The minor varieties in Bourgogne include Aligoté, Gamay, Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), Pinot Blanc, Sacy, Sauvignon, César, Melon de Bourgogne and others. Aligoté alone represents about 6% of plantings, which means the others together make up about 3%.

Being an offspring of the same parents as ubiquitous Chardonnay, namely Pinot Noir x Gouais Blanc, Aligoté has not enjoyed the same international reputation as its ‘sibling’. Aligoté used to be more widely planted in Bourgogne but its low commercial appeal and difficulty to grow well slowly converted most growers of Aligoté to replant with Chardonnay. Aligoté is known for its lively acidity and notes of spring meadows, straw and lemon zest, and a crisp mineral finish. With development, you may even find honey notes. Its association with the cocktail Kir may not have done it proper justice because this grape variety has a vivacity and character that should not be masked by Crème de Cassis! But there is more to Aligoté than its name suggests – we know there are at least two distinct clones of the grape variety. Aligoté Vert, the modern clonal version, is the more widely planted and higher yielding and is typically vinified into Bourgogne Aligoté. Aligoté Doré, the thinner-skinned version that allows for a more balanced expression of alcohol and acidity when ripening, is the older version and exists amongst very old vines.

Nowhere in Bourgogne is this grape variety as celebrated as in the village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise region. The tiny appellation of Bouzeron (1998) (only 55 ha) has made the golden version of Aligoté its raison d’être. This is an appellation dedicated to Aligoté and nothing else. The Aligoté grapes here are grown on well-exposed white marly limestone upper slopes to achieve perfect ripening. The gobelet training allows the yields to be carefully controlled. (The lower slopes are for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sold as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC.) Bouzeron wines have an ageing potential like no other Bourgogne Aligoté – they have been known to taste well beyond 5+ years. The perfect way to enjoy Bouzeron is with a plate of jambon persillé, but it can easily go well with a quiche and salad luncheon. Its cheese partners are Comté and CÎteaux. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bouzeron AOC, there is a public open day with tours around the vineyards and food/wine pairing on 14th April.

There is another high quality expression of Aligoté from the Côte de Nuits. Local, loyal practices have allowed Aligoté vines to continue to flourish from a hillside vineyard Clos des Monts Luisants, a Premier Cru Climat, in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Aligoté had been planted there since 1911, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges. It was not until 2005 that this monopole wine was made entirely with 100% Aligoté. This exception to the rule does not apply to other Monts Luisants white wine, which is typically based on Chardonnay. If you could get your hands on a bottle of 100% Aligoté-based Clos des Monts Luisants blanc, you would be in for a treat. The singular expression of Aligoté is so compelling here, with precision, vigour, boldness and concentration.

Gamay is synonymous with Beaujolais. Under the rule of Valois Duke Philippe the Bold, this grape variety was politically sacrificed and banned as ‘disloyal’ in 1395, making way for wider plantings of the prized Pineau-plant-fin (later known as Pinot Noir). Unbeknown to the Valois rulers at the time, Gamay does thrive better in granite soils in Beaujolais, rather than the prevalent argilo-calcaire in Bourgogne. The 1395 ban fortunately did not stretch to the Mâconnais region as the Bourgogne delimitation at the time did not stretch this far south. In certain areas of the Mâconnais we can find Gamay delivering an elegant expression when grown on granite and siliceous subsoils. Mâcon as a regional appellation can be made into white, red and rosé wines. The red and rosé wines can be made from Pinot Noir or Gamay, but Gamay typically features here. The example of Mâcon Rosé that we tried was so mineral, crisp and elegant, very unlike a Provencal rosé or one from the Loire Valley.   

Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot (Gris), both mutations of Pinot Noir, are permitted, for historic reasons, in a few Côte de Nuits village appellations that permit white wine, including Marsannay, Vougeot, and Nuits-Saint-Georges for the white wines. Naturally, they can also feature in Crémant de Bourgogne blends.

Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are the grape varieties permitted in the Saint-Bris appellation (2003) in the Auxerrois region. The terroir in Auxerrois sets this variety apart from its expression in the Loire Valley. It does not have the flinty character of the Loire Sauvignon, nor the asparagus note. Instead there is a juicy fruitiness of grapefruit and starfruit that is subtle, not overt and quite different from the more flamboyant Marlborough kiwi and passion fruit character. There is a mineral core and a saline finish that is characteristic of wines from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone soils of this northern Bourgogne region. Perfect with the goat cheeses from this region: think Charolais and Satonnay, but also saffron-flavoured dishes. Saint-Bris is mainly produced from the commune of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, but also from the neighbouring communes of Chitry, Irancy, Vincelottes and Quenne. Total area under vines for Saint-Bris AOC is 133 ha.

César is typically a robust and vigorous variety, giving wines with deep red colour, firm tannins and intense red fruit aromas. The appellation of Irancy (1999) from the Auxerrois region permits a maximum of 10% of César to complement the lighter coloured and softer texture Pinot Noir, to give a wine that has more structure and texture in this northern region of Bourgogne. Vignerons who desire a more modern, softer, readily approachable style for their Irancy are more likely to make it with 100% Pinot Noir. (It was a shame that our wine did not contain César - it would have been an interesting illustration.) BIVB recommends Irancy as a good partner for these cheeses: Camembert, Coulommiers, Brie de Meux, Langres, Epoisses and Soumaintrain.  The producing communes are Irancy, Cravant and Vincelottes. Total area under vines for Irancy AOC is 159 ha. 

Sacy is an early-ripening white grape variety, with rather low acidity and alcohol, producing light-coloured wines. It is mainly found in the Grand Auxerrois region. Interestingly, this shares the same parents as Aligoté, Melon and Chardonnay.

Finally, Melon de Bourgogne (another Pinot x Gouais Blanc offspring) is no stranger to wine lovers familiar with Muscadet wine from the Loire Valley. It is valued for its minerality and lively acidity, and a lightness and salinity that serve so well when paired with oysters. It would appear that this grape variety had its origins in Bourgogne before migrating north to find a more faithful expression.

Therefore, this masterclass presented a very unique interest level for Bourgogne wine lovers. We also slotted in a Bourgogne Vézelay in the selection because of Vézelay’s newly promoted status as a village appellation as of 2017. We tasted a 2016 vintage – so it remained a Bourgogne Vézelay, a regional appellation. Vézelay AOC is reserved for white wines made with Chardonnay only. The wine we tasted showed a beautiful tension, mineral core and salinity at the finish that recalled the soil component of the Auxerrois region. It was elegant and sublime.

 

The selection of wines by BIVB

The wines we tasted were:

Saint-Bris, Simonnet-Febvre, 2017 (Sauvignon)

Bouzeron, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, 2015 (Aligoté)

Bourgogne Vézelay L’Elégante, Domaine La Croix Montjoie, 2016 (Chardonnay)

Marsannay Les Vignes Marie, Domaine du Vieux Collège, 2015 (Chardonnay)

Mâcon Rosé, Vignerons de Mancey, 2017 (Gamay)

Irancy, Domaine de Mauperthuis, 2015 (Pinot Noir)


Each of these wines showed a distinct personality and style, whichever grape variety they were based on.  All of these wines would retail at below HK$ 200 retail per bottle if they were available in the local market. This was indeed one of the more exciting tastings I could remember, with each wine making a distinct impression, even though they all came from the same region!  Blind taste these wines on your wine-snob friends, and you might find some very interesting results!

Feasting on Italian Wines and Cheeses

2 January 2019:

Happy New Year!

Continuing with my recent love affair with Italian wines, I decided to dedicate a drinks party to Italian wines. So why not New Year’s Eve?! And to pair with the wines, I had ordered some fine Italian cheeses and cold cuts, including the very addictive truffle ham! More on the cheeses as you scroll down.

I tried to cover Italy from north to south as much as possible. The verdict is clear that Italy is a great producer of fine wines, with a tremendous diversity in styles that could suit different palates, thanks to the number of indigenous varieties, the range of soils and climates and local customs. I firmly believe the local food has a lot to do with the local wine styles.

Amongst the whites, the Timorasso Derthona by Massa probably won the all-round applause from the tasters, delivering a point of difference in terms of flavours and texture. A beautiful food wine showing honey and almond notes at this age and a smooth texture. Suavia's Monte Carbonare was an interesting showing of Garganega, with just a hint of residual off-dryness at the finish. All classic wine drinkers gravitated towards Frescobaldi's Pomino Benefizio in the familiar Chardonnay territory. The Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna showed lovely herbal notes but the alcohol was a little on the high side.

 

As for the reds, all the 1997 bottles delivered great finesse, especially Robeto Voerzio's Barolo Brunate, the Tignanello (in magnum) showed class and harmony and the velvety texture of the Pelago (also in magnum) belies a surge of vivacity and strength that could see the wine through another decade or more. The San Leonardo was my quiet ‘Italian’ – it gathered expressiveness with time and could easily be my favourite wine of the evening. The Quintarelli Valpolicella was a quirky one to like but still found a number of admirers. The Poggio Antico Brunello Altera was a firm favourite amongst those seeking power, strength and vivacity. It was luscious and beautifully balanced at the same time. The Graci Etna Rosso was no shrinking violet and impressed all by its freshness and purity of 100% Nerello Mascalese and lack of oak treatment. The Taurasi by Terredora di Paolo was beautifully made and drinking perfectly at this age, still showing some violet character, but with some tertiary characters kicking in. (Full wine list at end of blog)

 

Now coming onto the cheeses, they were all amazing! Let’s start with the ones we might know a bit better.

 

From bottom left: Taleggio DOP, Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d'Orzo e Whisky, Castelmagno DOP Stagionato 3 mesi, Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore, Il Fiorino, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP 36 mesi, Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio.

Taleggio DOP: This is a raw cow milk cheese produced on the mountains of Val Taleggio, Lombardia. The fresh cheese is washed to give the cheese its characteristic orange rind (with an ivory springy paste) and sweet pungent aromas. It is made with unpasteurised milk, giving the cheese a high level of flavour complexity. The pungency is more pronounced on the nose than on the palate. The creamy texture suggests a buttery sweetness in the flavours, with a tanginess and floral character. It is a gorgeous cheese to be eaten on its own, paired with Timorasso, a Nebbiolo d’Alba or a 1997 Barolo Brunate!, or melted in cooking.

The Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio was absolutely heavenly. This cow milk blue cheese from Lombardia/Piemonte was rich and luxuriant. Once settled into room temperature, the creamy texture with just the delicate blue mould character simply blended into one buttery herbal dollop coating the palate with its deliciousness. I did not try this with any wine, but I could imagine a dessert wine or a Demi-Sec Champagne if you can get hold of one!

Known as the King of Piemonte cheeses, Castelmagno DOP is a cheese with a long history and a monastic origin owing the name to San Magno. Records from 1277 showed that rental of pastureland was settled with wheels of Castelmagno. In the 18th Century, it was regularly served in famous restaurants in Paris and London. Typically made with cow’s milk, but sometimes can have goat or sheep milk added. This farmstead version has been aged for 3 months (Stagionato 3 mesi) and it shows a grey rind, with an ivory coloured paste that is firm and crumbly, with herbal, floral and mineral notes. There is a long aftertaste that reminds one of a damp cellar. I paired this with the Barolo and it was marriage made in heaven.

Even more impressive was the Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore by Caseificio Il Fiorino. This award-winning Tuscan Pecorino was simply divine. It had strong and intense flavours of pineapple, grassy and herbal notes, with a persistent finish. This is a very balanced cheese, with a velvety richness that just made it so much more special. I thought the Brunello was superb with this!

The Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Stravecchio (36 months) was divinely paired with the vintage champagne. It tasted better with the 2007 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne than the drier, more mineral and chalky 2002 Jacquesson Dizy-Corne Bautray (in magnum). This cheese from Emilia-Romagna needs no introduction. This version from Agricola Giansanti di Muzio was exceptional, so packed with flavours, velvety smooth and yet nutty and spicy and the saltiness was so well integrated.

The pièce de résistance was the Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d’Orzo e Whisky. This nutty and piquant cheese had this most interesting appearance of a barley studded rind, and a firm but easily crumbled paste, the colour of milk coffee. Cusie is a Piemontese expression for “that which there is”. So the Cusie is usually made with whatever milk available at the time of production. However, typically it would start with milk from Alpine cows, mixed with either goat or sheep milk. This version was coated in whisky-soaked barley and aged for around 18-24 months, giving the cheese a smokey and sweet fermented taste infused with malt whisky flavours, such as fermented grains, caramel, dried fruit and marmalade. The aftertaste is distinctly spicy with a good lift of acidity. This is a gourmet cheese. I did not think it would do it justice to pair with wine. Rather a single malt with age?

This is a very exciting journey discovering Italian wines and cheeses. So glad to be on board! Salute!

Here are the wines that featured on this Italian evening:

The White Wines

Timorasso 'Derthona', Colli Tortonesi DOC, Vigneti Massa, 2014

(Timorasso, Piemonte)

Monte Carbonare, Soave Classico DOC, Suavia, 2015

(Garganega, Veneto)

Pomino Benefizio DOC, Castello di Pomino, Frescobaldi, 2014

(Chardonnay, Toscana)

IS Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, Argiolas, 2017

(Vermentino, Sardegna)



The Red Wines

Barolo DOCG Brunate, La Morra, Roberto Voerzio, 1997

(Nebbiolo, Piemonte)

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Tenuta San Leonardo, 2004

(Approx Cabernet Sauvignon(60%)-Carmenère(30%)-Merlot(10%), Trentino)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Quintarelli, 2003

(Corvina-Rondinella-Molinara-Others, Veneto)

Tignanello, Toscana IGT, 1997 (magnum)

(Sangiovese(85%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(10%)-Cabernet Franc(5%), Toscana)

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Altero, Poggio Antico, 2007

(Sangiovese, Toscana)

Pelago, Marche Rosso IGT, Umani Ronchi, 1997 (magnum)

(Montepulciano (50%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(40%)-Merlot(10%), Marche)

Taurasi DOCG, Terredora di Paolo, 2007

(Aglianico, Campania)

Etna Rosso DOC, Graci, 2016

(Nerello Mascalese, Sicilia)