15 December 2015: A feast that served to celebrate a few milestones....a good friend joining the prestigious ranks of Masters of Wine, another good friend passing his 60th year (a bit earlier in the year), and a little pre-Christmas celebration for the rest of us.
We began with 1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil. It effused a rich and intense bouquet of ripe pear, Brazil nut, caramel, shortbread and buttered toast, laced with bright vibrant acidity, and a long rich finish. It seemed quite a bit more evolved than the 1998 we had recently. 18/20
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| The man and wine from same vintage! |
1955 Veuve Clicquot: We were all a bit concerned when the cork came out with hardly a 'pop'! Gentle bubbles of such creamy texture slowly meandered their way through the glasses, carrying a most refined bouquet filled with hazelnut, smoke, toast, liquorice and ginger, that belied its age. Remarkable freshness filled the palate and left with a long complex finish. A perfect harmony, faultless with its notes. An almost ageless example of Champagne, like its same vintage personality who gave us the excuse to open such a great bottle. 19/20
2002 Chevalier-Montrachet La Cabotte, Bouchard (magnum): Apple, almond and citrus notes initially made up the bouquet, but it wasn't quite followed by the crisp, taut tension on the palate that we would expect for this wine. Saline finish, though lacking in length and vibrancy, evidence of premature oxidation? A little bit disappointing. 16.5/20
1970 Latour (magnum): Decanted for 1.5 hour before we tried it (there was no need to decant, except to facilitate the service, without getting sediments into our guests' glasses!) A garnet hue. Glorious bouquet of tobacco, cigar box, cedar, earth, still flaunting some fruity notes of blueberry. A classic claret that has reached the pinnacle of its enjoyment window, and possibly on the verge of its gradual decline (in magnum or larger formats). Drying sensation at finish. Drink now and over next 5 - 8 years (large formats). 17.5/20
1970 Vega Sicilia Unico (magnum): Decanted for 1.5 hour. Ruby hue, just showing some garnet at the rim. Plum, dark cherry, tobacco, fig leaf with chocolate notes, complemented with a remarkable freshness that kept up its youthful state. Perfectly retained structure, with a rich and luscious texture, leading to a finish that went on and on. A superb effort. Drink now and over next 12 - 15 years. 19/20
1954 Rivesaltes, Cazes: a rich enticing Christmassy bouquet of date, prune, walnut....with smooth silky texture....just seemed lacking in concentration and character when compared to the next wine! But a beautifully aged Vin Doux Naturel from a tricky vintage, and perfect with the chocolate rum-raisin cake that I made, courtesy of Susan Jung's recipe posted in the SCMP. 16.5/20
1945 Sandeman's Vintage Port: the spirity finish didn't detract from its slightly superior quality compared to the previous wine. Characterful, with dried fruit, nutty and caramel notes. Probably more enjoyable 10 years ago....now seemed rather lacking in fruit, the experience overcome by the alcoholic finish! 17/20
And just a few more days to Christmas!
