Rendez-vous avec les vins de Pouilly-Fuisse

16 December 2014: Earlier this month, I organised a 'live' training session in Hong Kong on behalf of BIVB.  The theme of the session was the wines of Pouilly-Fuissé. 22 participants attended this training, including representatives from the trade, media and educators, at the collaborative space of Umami Concepts. The wines from 5 different domaines were shipped to us directly from BIVB for this training.

 

The space at Umami Concepts, with everyone focusing on the tasting.  Chef Nolan at the far right.

Pouilly-Fuissé with its 760 ha is the second largest appellation of Bourgogne, after Chablis, and it is twice the size of Meursault. Stylistically, Chablis has long been known for its minerality and racy freshness, Meursault for the roundness and structure, and Pouilly-Fuissé's appeal is its subtle and inimitable fruitiness and elegance. The appellation with average yield of 55 hl/ha is in the region of the Mâconnais, and made up of 4 communes, from north to south, Vergisson, Solutré-Pouilly, Fuissé and Chaintré. The diversity of the climates (in the weather-sense, rather) is such that the date of harvest could be a week different between Vergisson in the north and Chaintré in the south. The appellation is essentially planted on sedimentary limestone on top of a Jurassic-period granitic subsoil of 200 million years old, with various outcrops of clay, schist, granite and even volcanic soil. 

Traditionally, Vergisson is a cooler site, but some microclimates do allow a good level of sunshine and warmth one the vines, especially the south-west or west facing slopes on the eastern part of the commune, such as La Maréchaude, well-sheltered from the wind, being at the foothills of the Roche de Vergisson, forming a heat trap to ripen the vines. Solutré-Pouilly is made up of Solutré to the west and the Pouilly part to the east, if you like, the grander sibling with the château and fancier houses. Clos de La Chapelle is a noteworthy climat here. Vers Cras is split between Pouilly and Fuissé. For example, Château de Beauregard's holding of Vers Cras is in Pouilly, rather than Fuissé and the soil is reddish-brown clay on top of fossilised limestone. Vers Cras continues into Fuissé which has a good share of both granitic and volcanic soils. Suppleness, richness and power are hallmarks of Fuissé wines. Some well-known climats are found in an amphitheatre setting of vineyards around the village Fuissé, including Les Vignes Blanches (east-facing, and a very high quality site), Les Ménétrières and Vers Pouilly (or Le Tournant de Pouilly at Domaine Ferret), all these on classic Bathonian limestone. Most of the vineyards of Chaintré face east or south, overlooking the Saône. Chaintré wines are well-exposed, with the best vineyards at an altitude. Some good examples are Vers Quarts and Les Chevrières, on the south side of the commune, with exposition SW - here you find red clay soil, with lots of stones of iron oxide.

Jean-Pierre on the screen, next to the Christmas tree

Our eminently knowledgeable tutor (at the end of the internet connection) for the session Jean-Pierre Renard interviewed Frédéric Burrier of Château de Beauregard at the domaine's cellar and they tasted a 2001 La Maréchaude which showed notes of marmalade, but a brilliant colour and plenty of energy and freshness for a wine at 13 years of age, followed by a 1975 Vers Cras which still showed a bright golden colour, with lots of tertiary aromas of truffle, mushroom and dried fruit, but the freshness on the palate was impressive, for a Pouilly-Fuissé at 39 years of age! A phenomenal example of how well Pouilly-Fuissé can age!

We then tasted the 5 wines in sequence:

2012 Pouilly-Fuissé Clos de La Chapelle, Domaine de La Chapelle (Catherine et Pascal Rollet): From the commune of Pouilly, made from old vines planted in 1921. A very small crop vintage, with lots of concentration. The wine is already very approachable, showing a supple texture, aromatic complexity, a nice balance between the richness and the freshness, with aromas of pear, apricot and lemon and a generosity on the palate.


2011 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Chevrières, Domaine Dominique Cornin: From the commune of Chaintré, limestone with red clay on top, facing southwest. Vinified in barrels. Quite closed still, a little austere at the moment in terms of structure, green fruit and pear notes start to emerge with aeration. A lot of mineral tensions and nervosity on the palate, and a tight structure. This is made to last - to try again in a few years time. This domaine has been organically certified since 2009.


2010 Pouilly-Fuissé Les Vignes Blanches, Domaine Thibert Père et Fils: From the commune of Fuissé. Here the vines ripen very well in the amphitheatre setting, facing east/southeast, with the vineyard overlooking the village of Fuissé. 2010 is a magnificent vintage, with superb balance, tension, complexity and an invigorating energy that is incomparable. Initially a little close, but opens up a bit with aeration. It is showing a lovely roundness and supple structure, amidst a vibrant freshness, with aromas of floral, nuts, citrus and green fruit, and a lengthy finish. One of my favourites in this tasting.


2010 Pouilly-Fuissé En Servy, Domaine Denis Bouchacourt: From the commune of Solutré. This domaine started bottling its own wine in 2004.  Vinified in enamel-lined vats. No influence of oak. Vines planted on steep slope, facing south. Some tropical notes here, such as mango and quince. Well-balanced, a bit more mellow in terms of acidity, clean and well-made, pure linear structure, finishes long.


2010 Pouilly-Fuissé La Maréchaude, Château de Beauregard: From the common of Vergisson. Here, the cool air in this commune is mitigated by the west/southwest exposure and wind shelter. All vines at the Château de Beauregard are hand-harvested. Single vineyard cuvée vinified in oak, with about 25% new oak. Beautiful balance, good tension, with a classy structure and depth of character. Needs time to develop. Another one of my favourites. This is one of the long-standing estates of Pouilly-Fuissé. 5 generations of Burriers have been at the château.


We did not taste 2013 nor 2014, but according to Jean-Pierre, 2014 was a fantastic vintage for whites in Bourgogne, with a lot of concentration and freshness. 2013 was challenging with the best producers delivering on balance and quality.

This live training was a great way to learn about the diversity of Bourgogne wines and in particular the diversity of Pouilly-Fuissé. There were visuals (the scenery from Bourgogne, the map of the region, the cellar visit by Jean-Pierre) and the actual tastings, all in one session.  We continued to enjoy the wines with a delicious buffet prepared by Chef Nolan. I highly recommend the relaxed, inspiring and collaborative space at Umami Concepts. It really was a great place for such an educational evening....and everybody could go back to the wines, retry them as they evolved during the evening. Even better when the glasses were sponsored by Zalto!

Did we fall in love with Pouilly-Fuissé?  I certainly did....and would love to see keep some of these bottles to see how they evolve over the next decade or longer.  I would like to see more of these great examples of such extraordinary terroirs on restaurant wine lists.  There is certainly no question about the value-quality that this appellation brings, and I hope will continue to bring, even in the event of some vineyards gaining their promotions! Fingers crossed!

22 vintages of Bruno Clair Chambertin Clos de Beze

18 November 2014: The highlight of our annual visit to Bourgogne this year was a vertical tasting of Bruno Clair's Chambertin Clos de Bèze. We were delighted to be joined by Bruno Clair and his son Edouard who started working at the domaine 4 years ago, after a degree in biology!

Bruno, seated in the middle, with his son Edouard on his left

Bruno is the grandson of Joseph Clair, originally from Santenay, who met and married a lovely girl from Marsannay, Marguerite Daü, during the 1st World War. Domaine Bruno Clair has 0.98 ha of Chambertin Clos de Bèze. The vines were planted in 1912 (about 2/3) and 1972. Bruno's vintage at the domaine was 1979.  When Joseph died in 1971, the domaine Clair-Daü was split up amongst the children and some of the vineyards either sold to Jadot or entered into metayage arrangements.

The 1966 bottle got squirreled away in this photo!

We tasted 22 vintages of the Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bruno Clair and here are my impressions of the wine in brief:

1966 (this was a Clair-Daü label): Aromas of autumnal leaves, dried roses, mushroom and cinnamon spice filled the mature bouquet overlaid with mocha, caramel and dried fruit notes, evoking a sense of warmth and spiciness. A lovely mature wine, with silky texture, graceful balance, and a good dose of vibrancy on the palate. Definitely drinking now, and if kept well, should have a further life of 4 - 5 years, at least. 18/20


1989: Quite a bit of brett on the nose. Lacking in intensity and energy on the palate...though some complexity. Well evolved. I had expected more body/flesh, given the warmth of the vintage. 15.5/20


1990: Some ripe fruit still showing...but volatile acidity has started to poke through and is evident on the finish, with the fruit barely holding on. Strangely delicately-framed given the vintage's hallmark warmth and flamboyance. 15.5/20


1991: One of the star performers of the vertical. Plenty of intensity, concentration of ripe fruit, but maintaining a very elegant impression. Vibrant acidity, with well-integrated extremely fine tannin. Very harmonious and a most complete wine. 19/20


1992: A ripe fruit vintage. This has evolved nicely, still showing beautiful freshness. While attractive, the wine does not have the power and concentration of the climat. Drinking perfectly today but there is no upside potential to be had....this should continue to drink well for another 5 -6+ years. 17/20


1993: Quite a bit of brett on the nose. The acidity is firm. Quite austere, not very charming today. The best may still take some time to come? 16.5/20


1995: (From a magnum) A brett-dominated nose! Totally without charm today. Question whether this wine will ever turn around??!! 14.5/20


1996: Ripe fruit on the palate, but somewhat lacking in concentration, lively acidity, perhaps it's finally turning the corner?  I did not like the dry finish so much!   16.5/20


1998: Some brett and volatile acidity on the nose, but silky texture and well balanced. Seems to have more flesh than the 1996. Will need to revisit with further bottle evolution. (Richard remarked a good 1998) 16.5/20


1999: Another star performer for me. Beautiful aromatics (dried fruit, leather, spice, sous-bois and mushroom). Intense flavours and silky tannin structure lifted by firm acidity filling the rich and complex palate. Utterly moreish and finishes long. An excellent wine! (A remark from the group that the wine seems to have matured at a faster pace than expected....perhaps not one for the very long haul.) 18.5/20



2000: There was a bit of brett on the nose. Dark fruit and dried fruit (prune). Not as flamboyant and fleshy as expected of the vintage. Not very expressive. A little disappointing. Drinking well now! 16.5/20


2001: A lovely perfumed nose, well-balanced but delicate in its frame. A lovely lift on the finish....17/20


2002: Another star performer for me. There was a whiff of volatile acidity on the nose...but not enough to mar the enjoyment of this gorgeous, expressive, classy wine. Beautiful fruit showing ripeness and purity. Nicely concentrated, fleshy, beautifully textured and structured, with everything perfectly proportioned. Very refined. A classy wine of its terroir and vintage. 18.5/20

One of my favourites!

2003: A hint of burnt fruit...only a little, together with some spice and leather. There was an understated elegance in the evident richness, representative of the vintage but not over done. It will be interesting to retaste this in 5 years time to see how it has evolved. 16.5+/20


2004: Hints of the 'ladybird' secreted methoxypyrazine (an aroma compound like overcooked mushy peas), amidst a red fruit and floral nose. Still a little astringent......will need some time to develop but may not have the material to support long term development. 16/20


2005: Very attractive aromatics, showing bright and ripe berry fruit. Still very primary. Vibrant acidity with still firm but fine-grained tannin, needing time to resolve. The palate confirms its power, concentration and intensity. Today, this very complete wine is still a little closed but shows plenty of promise and will need at least 8 - 10 years to fully deliver! 19/20


2006: Plenty of ripe fruit...but lacking in precision in the detail......seems a bit loose in the structure. This will need some time to develop. 17+/20


2007: A little one-dimensional.....lacking in concentration or complexity, but a very fine effort. 16/20


2008: At first quite unyielding, with very firm acidity, and not much on the palate. Started to show better definition and structure with aeration. Could develop into a classy wine. 17+/20


2009: Fleshy and opulent, given the ripeness of the vintage. Already very approachable. Moreish. Needs time to develop more complexity. 18+/20



2010: A little muted but the linearity, elegance and purity are evident. Well crafted, a great expression of the vintage. Love the vibrancy and complexity on the palate. To revisit in 8 - 10 years' time. 18.5/20


2011: Lovely red fruit....a bit clunky and four-square. This could do with more time to resolve the firm tannin and develop some padding on the palate. 16.5/20

Bruno had brought along for us to taste a magnum of his 2008 Morey-Saint-Denis 'En La Rue de Vergy'. It showed lovely minerality, nuances of fennel seeds, still plenty of energy and a nice crisp finish. A lovely wine! Perfect with cheese!  He also brought a magnum of 1994 Clos Saint Jacques which according to those who were quick to the bottle, it was absolutely delicious!


What a fabulous tasting!  (And thank you so much to our wonderful lunch host!  I loved the sausage and lentil stew!)  These are expressive wines that reward patience!

Aren't they beautiful?

Lessons from nature: Domaine Comte Abbatucci

8 November 2014: Despite its long tradition of winemaking since 15th Century, the Abbatucci family had long been better known for its connection with Napoléon Bonaparte and his descendants. Jean-Charles Abbatucci (1770 – 1796) was a friend of Napoléon’s and while serving as General, he conquered Holland at the young age of 23 years. Jacques-Pierre-Charles Abbatucci (1791 – 1857) served as lawyer of Corsica, magistrate of Orleans and then Paris and eventually became the Minister of Justice of the Second Empire. He was well known for his love of all traditional products of Corsica and was responsible for crafting the modern Corsica.

Jean-Charles Abbatucci

The current winery of Domaine Comte Abbatucci has been making wine for over a century, covering 100 hectares of granitic terroir, about 20% of which are planted, in the area of Ajaccio. The winery is now run by Jean-Charles Abbatucci, whose father started planting some near-extinct local indigenous varieties in the family vineyard in 1960’s and spent 10 years preparing a notebook detailing results of his study including ampelography and cultural character of these varieties. There are an estimated 22-23 indigenous varieties in Corsica and you can find 18 of these at Domaine Comte Abbatucci. Jean-Charles is passionate to craft the best wines possible from his land, and since 2000, he started practicing biodynamics when he noticed that nature produced the best fruit possible when unadulterated. Apart from biodynamic practices in accordance with the lunar calendar, he has augmented such with phytotherapy. The most remarkable changes to his vineyard and wines since the adoption of biodynamics are that the depth of topsoil of decomposed granite has increased from 7 cm to 30 cm, more vigour in the canopy, greater biodiversity in the soil, greater concentration of micro-organisms in the roots, and the whites are showing much more minerality while the reds demonstrate a distinct aroma of the earth, especially in his top cuvée Ministre Impérial. The use of natural yeast has also ensured a better balance between aromatic complexity and complexity on the palate. It has been a long and rewarding learning process, learning about the harmony between nature, vines and man.

Some of Jean-Charles’s top wines, with the signature hallmark of elegance, freshness, and unique character, are sold as Vin de France, as they are not made in conformance with AOC requirements. The entry level wine range (AOC Ajaccio) is called Faustine, named after Jean-Charles’s daughter, with production levels of the red about 30,000 bottles, 20,000 bottles for the white and 15,000 bottles of the rosé. At the premium range, there is the Cuvée Collection, comprising 2 white labels and 1 red label. The whites are Diplomate d’Empire and Général de La Révolution and the red is Ministre Impérial. Just below these 3 top cuvées, there are 2 wines, namely Carcajolo-Nero (CN in short) and Barbarossa (BR) based on the varietals. About 25,000 bottles are produced all together for these 5 wines.

Faustine Blanc, Faustine Rouge et Cuvee Collection Ministre

During my tasting with Jean-Charles, I tasted 3 of his wines. I started with the 100% Vermentino, Faustine Blanc 2013, Vieilles Vignes. Vinified without use of oak. Aromatically, this recalled green grass, green apple and citrus. On the palate, there was a clean precise minerality, complementing the refreshing bright acidity. The wine finished long, with a saline complexity to the finish. Fabulous as an aperitif or to pair with seafood platter or sashimi.


The red Faustine I tasted was from the 2012 vintage, a blend of 70% Sciaccarello and 30% Nielluccio. Vinification in cement tanks, without any oak influence. The aromas presented wild berries, myrtle (characteristic of Sciaccarello), lavender and cardamom spice. Fresh acidity greeted the palate, together with fine-grained elegant tannin, lending a silky mouthfeel. Finishes fresh and spicy. Refined, aromatic and very attractive.


Both of these entry level wines are drinking well now and will continue to drink well for another 6 – 8+ years. Guided retail price about HK$200 a bottle.

I finished the tasting with the 2012 vintage of the Ministre Impérial, from the Cuvée Collection. Jean-Charles said he’s still trying to understand how the wine would develop, as its first vintage was only 2007! Made from a blend of 7 grape varieties, with Sciaccarello and Nielluccio making up 40% of the blend. Aged in 600-litre used demi-muids, without any new oak influence. The nose was intense but delivered great aromatic complexity and intensity, with nuances of raisin, plum, violet, earthy, iodine, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg spice. The intense flavours continue on the palate, and are built into layers and layers of complexity. The tannins are firm, ripe and fine-grained, giving a velvety roundness to the mouthfeel, balanced by vibrant acidity. The finish goes on for a few minutes. It embodies elegance, finesse and harmony, even at this young age. If served blind, it would be almost impossible to position this in Corsica! This wine has been well-received by some well-known winemakers from Bourgogne, with one famous winemaker from Puligny-Montrachet, likening its style to a wine between Chambolle Musigny and Château Rayas. Further, Jean-Charles believes in wax closure for additional protection, as he uses only minimum sulphur. Guided retail price about HK$ 850 a bottle.

It was very exciting to learn that Jean-Charles had just acquired a piece of 40-hectare vineyard at 600 metre altitude where he is envisaging an oasis of vines in the middle of maquis-covered land. (Maquis is a local term, very similar to garrigue in the Languedoc, with immortelle and myrtle as key components.)



  

2002 Montrachet, Fontaine-Gagnard and 1985 Corton Charlemagne, Louis Latour

1 November 2014: 17 years apart....and so similar in colour!

A Room Full of Gold: Australian Boutique Winemakers Trade Mission in HK

23 October 2014: Without the deep pockets, production volumes and international marketing panache of the big brands, it remains a challenging task for boutique wineries from Australia to reach out to export markets.  This year, with the sponsorship from Austrade, Judith Kennedy, CEO of the Association of Australian Boutique Winemakers Inc. (AABW) was able to embark on a sales mission into Hong Kong, joined by 7 Trophy winners and 3 Gold Medal winners.  Through a series of trade tastings, master classes and a degustation trophy dinner, trophy and medal winners were able to present their range of wines, including the winners, to local media and potential importers.   The Boutique Wine Awards is the only show in Australia where the top size limit is 250 tonnes, and they uniquely support the small and independent winemakers.

We certainly benefitted from this opportunity to taste these wines, made with such passion and dedication, and completely expressive of the personality of the winemaker, and regional characteristics. As Nick Bulleid MW, one of the speakers at the master classes, pointed out, Australia started making wine in 1874 but they had come through a long journey to more precisely map out where best to grow different varietals.  For instance, Riverina makes great botrytised wines, in the style of Sauternes, but it would never be able to make great Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz, even if it tried!  Nick himself makes a Pinot Noir at 910 metres altitude in Laggan, in the chilly Southern Tablelands of New South Wales (winery name Hatherleigh).....where he in some years has seen inches of snow in his 1 hectare vineyard.

It was not possible to attend all 4 of the master classes.  So I attended 2 of them: 1) Classic Aussie Varietals, Boutique Style; and 2) Terroir makes all the difference: West v South Showcase.  I was very impressed by the elegance, delineation, detail, clear regional definition and varietal expression of the wines in both master classes.  

Robert Fiumara from Lillypilly Estate (standing) and Nick Bulleid MW (seated)

Then there were the personal stories....Robert Fiumara, Owner and Winemaker of Lillypilly Estate in Riverina, told us that his father planted vines in 1972 when he was in 3rd form (about 8 years old), and in effect chose Robert's career for him!  His father made their first wine in 1982.  Lillypilly's Noble Blend Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 (Trophy winner in the Sweet Wines class) was a beautifully crafted Sauternes-style botrytised wine, without any use of oak (74% Sauvignon Blanc/26% Semillon).  Intense aromas of apricot, marmalade, candied orange peel, barley sugar.  Luscious, balanced by refreshing acidity and a light tannin, which ensured a drying sensation on the palate.  The estate makes about 1000 cases in an average year.

From right to left: Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Grove Estate Nebbiolo 2013 (Hilltops, NSW), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Lillypilly Estate Noble Blend 2011 (Riverina, NSW), Stanton & Killeen Rare Topaque (Rutherglen, Victoria) 

Established in 1875, Stanton and Killeen has probably the longest history amongst the boutique wineries present at this trade mission in Hong Kong.  Now run by the 7th generation, 2015 will mark their 140th anniversary.  Stanton and Killeen has built its reputation on full-bodied reds, luscious fortified wines including Portuguese style ports and a range of Muscats and Topaques (previously known as Tokays), and also a dry red blend based on Douro varietals.  CEO Wendy Killeen successfully wooed the audience with sips of the nectar of her winery, the Rare Topaque (Trophy winner of the fortified class). Made with Muscadelle, and aged for over 30 year, this epitomises craftsmanship and singular dedication.  Rare by name and nature, this Rare Topaque represents less than 1% of the winery's production. It was rich and opulent. Walnut, date, prune and toffee flavours coated the palate, and lingered for quite a few minutes!  A most memorable wine of the tasting!

Wendy Killeen of Stanton and Killeen

The West versus South Australia tastings just reminded us that there was no one terroir for Australia, nor even within a state: Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek and Adelaide Hills from South Australia all have their unique climate, soil and stylistic characteristics, demonstrated by some very well-defined wines as Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 and Rhythm Stick's Red Robin Riesling 2013.  And Geographe is not quite the same as Margaret River.......and what a fine example of Margaret River's terroir was Woody Nook's Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012, with the vines planted in 1982.

From right to left: Talisman Riesling 2013 (Geographe, WA), Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 (Langhorne Creek, SA), Woody Nook Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013 (Margaret River, WA), Anvers Brabo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Adelaide Hills, SA)

Australia has recently seen its range of wines augmented by a number of European and South American varietals....when asked which ones had shown the most promise, Nick Bulleid thought that the best examples he had tasted were Tempranillo, Arneis, Sangiovese and Vermentino, when grown in ideal soil and climate conditions.  He also had high hopes for Mencia!

Extremely professionally organised, Austrade did a brilliant job in helping these small 'guys' reach out to markets normally beyond their reach!  So may this effort continue!

For full details of the trophy and medal winners, please refer to: boutiquewines.com.au

Musigny Dinner

24 October 2014: Special bottles are to be shared and what better way to share than to arrange a BYO dinner around the theme of Musigny.  It was a real privilege to be included in this dinner.

We started with 2 champagnes:

Selosse Version Originale.: (From the vineyards of Avize and Cramant, on the hillsides.) A medium golden robe. Mature oxidative nose of toast, shortbread, pear preserve, honey and acacia. Some spicy richness on the texture.  Finishes a little abrupt, not so exciting. 16/20

1980 Dom Perignon: Also golden in colour.  Ginger shortbread, liquorice, toast, honey and mineral, with a lovely saline quality on the palate. Mature, but still retaining a good energy level and very engaging this evening.  Medium body, finishes very long. A fine mature champagne without being outstanding. 17/20

2000 Bourgogne Blanc, de Vogüé: Minerality dominates the still firm palate, complemented by nuances of almond, toast, ripe pear, apple and citrus. Medium body, well-delineated, a nicely rounded mouthfeel, with weight to match and crisp acidity to balance.  Finishes long. Very fine effort for the vintage. Definitely drinking well now!  17.5/20

1971 Remoissenet Musigny: Pale garnet.  Notes of dry leaves, rose petals and nutmeg. Silky palate, with a lovely texture and some weight. Structure and balance impeccable for the age. Medium finish. An excellent example. 18.5/20

1978 De Vogüé, Musigny: unfortunately suffered from cork taint!

1979 De Vogüé, Musigny: Some noticeable volatile acidity on finish.  Still showing lovely complexity of sous-bois, earth, truffle and tea leaves.  Elegantly presented. Finishes a bit dry. To be drunk now. 15.5/20

1987 De Vogüé Musigny: A light weight version of the wine, but still featuring the hallmarks of Musigny.  Silky palate and beautiful balance and aromatics, if you do not mind the slight bretty character. Overall impression, a little rustic in style, lacking in charm, but well made for the vintage and nicely aged. 16/20

1985 Roumier Musigny: Sensational in one word. Savoury, freshness, plum, spice, mushroom. Silky palate, bright acidity, very long finish. Utterly harmonious. A very stylish and expressive wine crafted to perfection with a long life ahead. Drink now and over next 15+ years. 20/20

2003 Prieur Musigny: It is so unfair to try this immediately after the 1985 Roumier.  Very plum like, black cherry, some cloves and nutmeg spice. An opulent style, still quite muscular......though this might seem a bit brutish immediately after the super-elegant and captivating 85 Roumier. 16/20

1996 De Vogüé Musigny: Still showing lovely cherry fruit, good concentration, still youthful, try again in 4-5 years time, when the elements are more in harmony with each other. 17.5/20  (Interestingly, on the red capsule of this bottle, it actually said Bonnes Mares.....but we had checked with the domaine....which confirmed that if the cork said Musigny, this was definitely Musigny....just a labelling error!)

To finish, 

2005 L'Extravagant, Doisy Daëne (half bottle): (65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc)  This was very rich and intense, but beautifully balanced and did not leave you with a heaviness on the palate. Extraordinary effort. 19/20

2002 Leroy Savigny Les Narbantons hitting the perfect note!

19 October 2014:

2002 Leroy Savigny-les-Beaune Les Narbantons
Garnet hue. Pure intense bright pinot fruit of raspberry and violet, sous-bois, truffle, cinnamon, nutmeg, five spice and tea leaves. Silky and supple palate, vibrant acidity, but already very harmonious and attractive. An exceptional Savigny Premier Cru that has aromatic complexity, depth and character, and a lovely mid-length finish, showing just a hint of dryness. Drinking at peak now and over next 5 - 6+ years. 17.5/20

2003 Corton Charlemagne, de la Vougeraie
Golden colour. Honey, braised pear, roasted hazelnut, with ripe tropical pineapple and mango notes and acacia flowers. A rich luscious style, lowish acidity, finishes long with honeyed liquorice nuances. Great with foie gras or a rich creamy lobster dish.  Drink now. 16/20

Jacquesson and Guy de Chassey

15 Oct 2014: This week I attended two champagne tastings, both held at China Tang restaurant. The first was a lunch with Jean-Hervé Chiquet from Jacquesson. Jacquesson is based in Dizy, Vallée de La Marne. Now run by brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent, who own 28 hectares (located in Dizy, Aÿ, Hautvillers and Avize) and have access to 8 further hectares under long-term contract. They produce around 270,00 bottles every year and they practise organic viticulture on some vineyards.

Jean-Hervé Chiquet

Jean-Hervé joked at lunch that they made champagne for their two best customers: him and his brother! Joking aside, this underscored the passion they both demonstrate in crafting only the best products, not compromised by any regulations. In 2000, they decided to replace the non-vintage champagne concept which would require a consistent style year after year, with a champagne that showed best the vintage's individual character, complemented by some reserve wine (now usually from the previous year). This gave rise to the first of the series of numbered cuvée. Cuvée 728 was thus named, as it was the 728th wine that was made by the house in the centenary, and was based on the opulence of the 2000 vintage. Cuvée 729 was much more challenging, being based on the 2001 vintage, but cuvée 730, based on the exceptional 2002 vintage, was definitely one of their finest signatures.

We started lunch with the Cuvée 736, based on the 2008 vintage, with 55% Chardonnay, 19% Pinot Noir and 18% Meunier. Dosage was very low at 1.5g/litre. Disgorged in March 2013. This was linear and elegant, with notes of apple, pear, toast, hint of almond, and a mineral-laden palate. The palate had an understated roundness, to balance the vibrancy of the vintage. Finish was clean and crisp. I think the best is still to come with this cuvée...so hold onto a few bottles to see how they continue to evolve over the next 10+ years!

The Cuvée 737 was based on the more sumptuous 2009 vintage. Ripe pear, marzipan and honey filled the bouquet and palate. Mouthfilling and gourmand in texture. The blend here was 43% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Noir and 30% Meunier. Dosage was 3.5 g/litre. This bottle was disgorged in July 2013.

When asked about the higher dosage for 737, Jean-Hervé said that their philosophy was that the dosage was not used to mask any shortcomings or enhance the vintage. It was to complement the style and character of the style. Before the addition of the liqueur de dosage, they would taste with different levels of dosage to determine the best one for that vintage.

He had brought us two very special cuvées from his cellar. A late disgorged 1989 Avize Grand Cru (disgorged in 1998), based on 100% Chardonnay from a blend of 3 lieux-dits, La Fosse, Nemery and Champ Gain. This tasted extremely youthful and lively. There was still a beautiful and most elegant poise and finesse, an admirable precision, yet rich in intensity and flavours, vibrant with freshness, with hardly any sign of maturity. A long finish, almost saline. A very fine expression of the terroir and the vintage, which many of us agreed at lunch that it had begun to show better than the much-admired 1990 vintage which had started to show its age in some bottles. I would score this 19/20.


The Mémoire du 20ème Siècle was a project that they made for the millennium. It was based on the 1996 Non-Vintage champagne, with reserve wines from 1994 and 1995, and a concoction of liqueurs de dosage from 20 vintages, ranging from 1915 to 1990. This bottle was disgorged in January 1999. The nose was ripe and rich, with candied pear, yoghurt, praline and a note of caramel crunch. The richness was deftly balanced by just the right amount of acidity. Jean-Hervé agreed that the liqueurs de dosage definitely played a larger role (than normal) in defining the style of this wine. This was bold and characterful, and not a shy wine against the Southeast Asian style beef brisket curry with roti canai!

Guy de Chassey dinner at China Tang

The second tasting at China Tang was a dinner with Marie-Odile de Chassey and her daughter Ingrid. Ingrid represents the 7th generation producing Guy de Chassey champagnes. They own 9.5 hectares of all Grand Cru vineyards, planted with 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and produce around 60,000 bottles every year. One-third of their vineyard holdings are in Bouzy....a highly-prized Pinot Noir terroir. They are based in Louvois, in the Montagne de Reims. They practise la lutte raisonné in their viticulture, and their wines do not receive any malolactic fermentation. Ingrid started working alongside her mother in 2003 and her first vintage was 2004.

We started with the Non-Vintage Brut Cuvée de Buretel, with a production of 50,000 bottles. 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with 30% reserve wine. The bottles we tried were based on the 2011 vintage. There was a lovely elegance in the fine structure.


Next was the Non-Vintage Brut Rosé, which received blending from Coteaux Champenois Bouzy Rouge. Blend was 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Loved the purity and intensity of the ripe fruit, cherry and raspberry, with just a touch of salinity on the finish. Well-defined and structured, with just enough substance on the palate, to give a roundness to the texture. A very admirable effort for a brut rosé! Highly recommended! And the pairing with roasted pigeon leg stuffed with preserved liver sausage was excellent!

Then we started with the vintage wines (Brut Millésime Grand Cru).....2004, 2002 and 1997. 2002 and 1997 were both made by Marie-Odile and 2004 was made by Ingrid. Both the 2004 and 2002 were blends of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and both received 9g/litre of dosage. The 2004 showed intensity, harmony, well-balanced opulence but not missing the mineral crispness and clean long finish. I loved it! 17.5/20   On the palate, 2004 was a more gourmand wine than 2002, which despite the toasty and candied fruit character, belied much tension and freshness in the structure - it had the touch of a ballerina, gracefully lithe and firmly poised......2002 was a lower acidity year than 2004. 2002 would be the year with greater longevity, Marie-Odile and Ingrid both concurred. If I had the 2002 in my cellar, I would wait another 3 - 4 years before trying another bottle. It would drink well for a very long time! 18/20

Then we finished with 1997 vintage Grand Cru. Marie-Odile recalled this being a difficult year, with a lot of mildew and much sorting, hence extremely low yield. The wine had started to reveal some mature character of mushroom and savoury note, with brioche and quince nuances. Well balanced, rewarding the palate with an opulence and richness and complexity of character. A fine expression of the vintage! Definitely drinking very well now, but there is no hurry at all - it should drink well for another 8 - 10 years, with further evolution in the bottle! 17/20


So what of 2014? The early September saved the vintage, and they were able to harvest around mid September....which was not the case with 2013, which was not harvested till early October! Fingers crossed!

Claudio of the HK Chapitre of Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, with Marie-Odile de Chassey and daughter Ingrid

A superb dinner organised by the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne Chapitre in Hong Kong. Claudio, the Chapitre's Ambassadeur, did a great job with the menu....The first time I attended an OCC event....and I'm looking forward to the next, whenever I can make it!

1966 Cheval Blanc

21 Sep 2014:

1966 Cheval Blanc:
Garnet core, lacked limpidity. Bouquet marred by whiffs of volatile acidity and brett initially but dissipated or the underlying character became stronger after a couple of hours. There were notes of coffee, cigar box, caramel, cedar, earth and a stoney minerality. All tertiary, with hardly any fruit quality on the palate. Finishes dry and short. Lacks charm. 16/20

2002 Mugnier Musigny and 2002 Pierre Peters Les Chetillons

16 Sep 2014: It was celebration time. A good friend just got through the MW Tasting Paper. On this occasion, we opened 3 bottles from the 2002 vintage. The 2002 Pierre Péters Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons was awesome! (Fruit came from the lieu-dit of Les Chétillons in Le Mesnil, made only in the best vintages.) It packed intense flavours of citrus pith, lime, pear, toast, honey, gingerbread, with just a hint of mushroom-like umami flavours, altogether with a chalky mineral quality. The persistent fine bubbles delivered incredible freshness and energy with every sip, leaving an incredibly long saline finish. Still quite taut, but it was extremely well-delineated, pure, precise and racy. We loved it! 19/20

The 2002 Meursault-Bouchères, Roulot was very well presented with an expressive nose, but it did not quite have the depth nor precision expected of a Meursault Premier Cru. On the palate, it seemed a bit characterless, albeit a well-made wine and one that went beautifully with smoked salmon starter. 16.5/20

The 2002 Musigny, Mugnier was sensational, in one word. It hit all the right notes....the aromatics were hauntingly beautiful, gorgeous pure black and red fruit followed by spice, displayed with such intensity. Palate was simply silk, woven with remarkable freshness, depth of flavours and precise winemaking. I loved the way it expanded to fill the mouth, leading to one lengthy mineral-laden finish. A very serious wine that you could fall in love with rightaway! This is textbook Musigny! 19.5/20

Mature Bordeaux: Recorked versus Original

18 Sep 2014: The theme of 'Recorked versus Original' was a rather original idea...but we soon realised that the tracking down of these precious recorked bottles proved quite a challenge. So we relaxed the theme a little to include some original bottles from the 50's and 60's.  Yu Lei Restaurant (part of the K.O. Dining Group) at Harbourfront Landmark, Hung Hom, was our chosen venue for this momentous tasting and dinner. Opened in 2012, K.O. Dining (K.O. for Kazuo Okada) is a restaurant complex that features 3 types of cuisine: Japanese, Chinese and Italian, in a 25,000 sq ft space, offering harbour view and a wine cellar that boasts 10,000 bottles! Our room featured a dramatic and exuberant chandelier cascading glistening strands of yellow gold, against a backdrop of wall painting of a giant bright pink peony on both sides of the room. The wine service, overseen by Akihiko Nosaka and his team, was impeccable. No decanters were used, except for the port at the end. Every bottle of mature Bordeaux was carefully handled and poured without agitating the sediment at the bottom. We were able to keep all our glasses throughout to check the evolution. It was extraordinary to learn that Executive Chef Miki Imagawa acquired his culinary skills in Chinese cuisine in Japan!! I was particularly impressed by the Pei Pa duck and the grilled eggplant with minced pork and mushroom served with Chinese bun.  (And if you're not bothered by food and wine pairing, a must try is the sweet and sour pork, made using 3 types of vinegar!)

The Pei Pa duck, marinated with homemade sauce

We started with a magnum of 1989 Krug (served with parma ham from Messina, the Italian restaurant at K.O. Dining). A lovely pale gold colour. An alluring nose exuding toasted hazelnut, lemon confit, ripe pear, preserved ginger, honey and shortbread, with hints of hickory smoke. Creamy in texture, with gentle fine bubbles delivering intense flavours, still laced with lively freshness, across the palate, leaving a smokey and almost saline aftertaste that lasted a couple of minutes. Truly sensational. The 750 ml format would probably require earlier drinking whereas for well-stored large formats, this was nowhere close to the declining path. 19/20

1989 Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Ramonet: a deeper shade of gold here than the Krug. A mature nose of marzipan, ripe pear, liquorice, butterscotch and nougat. There was still sufficient acidity to give the wine the necessary structure and balance against the richness on the palate. On the palate, it was creamy and lush, with a lingering aftertaste. The pairing with stir-fried Boston lobster with creamy sauce was definitely a good recommendation by Chef Miki. 17.5/20


The first pair of recorked versus original was the 1945 Cheval Blanc. The 'recorked' bottle was fitted with a new cork in 1985, without any topping up. The level of the original bottle was about mid shoulder. The original bottle started to show bricking at the rim, and the core lacked limpidity. On the nose, if you could get past the very noticeable volatile acidity, you could find notes of coffee, plum, leather, tobacco, dried fruit and caramel. As one of us noted, it was almost Amontillado-like! There seemed more flesh and weight on the palate than the recorked version. This deteriorated rather rapidly with aeration, and about 45 minutes later, the VA almost dominated the palate, to render this unpleasant. 15/20


As for the recorked bottle, there was also VA on the nose, but there was perhaps more freshness and brighter fruit accompanying the notes of coffee, leather, plum, nutmeg and cinnamon. It felt more silky on the palate, a bit more elegant than the original version...sadly this bottle also succumbed to the aggression of VA in about the same amount of time. 15.5/20


Next pair was the 1953 versus 1959 Latour,both original bottles. The 1953 Latour, though not a blockbuster vintage, held its own rather well in the line-up. Garnet core. It offered notes of leather, earth, plum, with hints of blueberry and violet. It was rather attractive, though in a more delicate frame. Lovely finish. Like a gracefully aged gentleman, still charismatic and distinguished, even though the passage of time has left its indelible mark. A charming wine, definitely drinking now....and probably should drink within the next 3 - 5 years. 16.5/20 (This paired so well with the Pei Pa duck!)


Even though well within expectation, the contrast with the 1959 Latour still took a little while to adjust to! This was youthful in every sense, from colour to the palate. There was hardly any sign of bricking at the rim here. It was power and strength in the glass. Cooked blackberry fruit and liquorice spice, layered with leather, cedar and tobacco notes. A strong tar and meaty character came through with aeration in the glass. All the elements were seamlessly integrated, giving a robust structure, if lacking charm today. A masculine wine that finished very long. Drink over next 10 - 15 years. 18.5+/20

The amazing line-up, thanks to everyone's generous contribution

Then we had the pair of 1959 Lafite, recorked versus original. The recorked bottle had come from a private collection in Bordeaux, which had been recorked and topped up with the same wine at the château in 2010. I had spotted a high dose of VA and some brett on the nose. If you could look beyond this, then you would find the unmistakable Pauillac nose of sweet tobacco, cedar and black fruit. The VA lent an exaggerated lifted vibrancy to the finish. 16/20


I thought that the original bottle had also suffered from the attack of VA, but to a much lesser extent. The nose showed much more cassis than the Latour, and complemented by notes of tobacco, blackberry, leather, mint and hints of savouriness. Silky on the palate, with more definition and charm than the Latour. A classy mature Pauillac. Finishes very long. Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years. 18.5/20 (marked down for the VA)


The next flight was the 1961 Margaux, recorked versus original. The original bottle showed a limpid garnet core. I was immediately seduced by the fragrant bouquet of cedar, sweet tobacco, some forest floor, earthy, plum and bilberry fruit and a hint of violet. The palate was silky and wonderfully balanced, delivering an abundance of finesse and charm. A very harmonious wine and a glorious Margaux. This was the wine of the evening for me. This wine is for drinking now...I probably would drink over next 6 - 8 years, to capture this sense of elegance and harmony. 19/20


The recorked bottle came from the cellars of Mähler-Besse in Bordeaux and the bottle had been recorked and topped up at the château in 2008. The colour was an intense garnet, but lacked limpidity. Apart from the noticeable VA, the nose bore much resemblance to the nose of the original bottle, but the palate showed just a bit more density and weight compared to the original bottle. 18/20


Unfortunately, the 1964 Margaux in the last flight was corked. So we only had the 1964 Haut Brion which put up a very good showing. Bright garnet core, with good limpidity. There was a sweet fruit entry, followed by olive, leather and stoney mineral notes. Medium bodied, nicely balanced. A quiet and unassuming wine, but a very decent drop for the vintage! Drink now.....but will not hold out too much longer. 16.5/20


This we paired with a baked Iberico pork rib with a very very mild spicy sauce.....I find a little bit of spice probably helped lift the palate a little, without detracting from the enjoyment of these fine bottles!


We finished with a 1963 Warre's Vintage Port. This tasted so fresh: dried date, prune, walnut and a hint of balsamic. This was beautifully harmonious, with no sharp edges at all, even if it didn't have the concentration of some of its peers....and so easy to slip down.....loved the way the fresh finish lasted so long in the mouth. We could still taste it the following day! 17.5/20


The port went very well with the baked egg tart and lotus seed paste pastry, which was presented like a peony flower in full blossom!

Such as special evening, thanks to everyone's generous contribution and the outstanding wine service.....I think it would be difficult to draw any useful conclusions on these bottles, as so much depended on the storage conditions throughout their lives and the vintage conditions.....but suffice to say, you need time and patience with great Bordeaux bottles......do not drink them in a hurry!

 

The dramatic chandelier!

1993 Corton-Renardes, Leroy

21 August 2014:

1993 Corton-Renardes, Leroy

Medium garnet. Sauvage, truffle, damp autumn leaves, earth, Asian spices of cardamom and cinnamon, plum fruit. Silky, elegantly structured, with freshness underscoring the mellow tannin. All this embracing ripe and mature fruit. Drinking beautifully now, and will continue to deliver at this level over next 6 - 8+ years. Medium finish. 18/20

2010 Corton Charlemagne, Olivier Bernstein
Pale golden robe.  Honey, apricot, ripe pear and ginger. Fleshy and harmonious but started to show signs of maturity. Drinking very well now, not restrained at all. Though not showing signs of premature oxidation, this bottle seems to indicate an accelerated path of development.  (This is the first bottle of 6 that we tried....so I would try another one soon to see if these signs are present.) Medium finish.  I would drink earlier rather than later. 16.5/20

2000 Pavie and 2000 Montrose

23 August 2014: Another lovely dinner at Upper Modern Bistro....great modern bistro dishes, friendly staff and a lively ambiance. To accompany our 2006 Mount Mary Chardonnay, we shared smoked salmon toast with cauliflower puree and avruga caviar, mini sausage rolls and my favourite pig's trotter dip (sadly none of my friends shared my passion for this - so more for me!!). 

The Mount Mary Chardonnay from Yarra Valley was definitely a cool climate style Chardonnay, now in its 7th year, showing notes of lemon, ripe pear and apple, lightly ginger-spiced, and the faintest hint of oak influence (30% new oak and the rest in older or larger barrels). A linear structure, beautifully balanced and precise, nice weight on the palate, without being heavy, and a minerally finish. Still very much in its youth....can be enjoyed now and over the next 8 - 10+ years. 17/20  (The label of this bottle specially added a note of commemoration of Dr. John Middleton, the founder of Mount Mary Vineyard who died in 2006.)

We continued with starters of lobster salad, 63 degree egg with sauteed mushroom, crab meat and bellota ham. Then for our main courses, we had the two 2000 Bordeaux side by side.

2000 Montrose (opened and double-decanted 4.5 hours earlier )
63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot. 12.5% abv.
Deep ruby. Cassis, dried herbs, blackberry, cedar, violet, hint of smoke, lead pencil, stoney, cool minerality, initially a hint of herbaceousness. Firm tannin, sense of freshness and coolness dominates the robust structure, powerful but not fleshy. Medium bodied. Muscular, firm and classic St Estephe. Still very youthful. Needs time to resolve. Continued to develop in the glass, took on more weight and the flavours more concentrated. Drink 2018+. A long life ahead. At least 20 years. 18/20


2000 Pavie (opened and double-decanted 2.5 hours earlier)
60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. 13.5% abv.
Deep ruby. Seductive nose of plump blackberry fruit, dark chocolate, hint of cedar over the liquorice and vanilla notes. Almost port-like. Fleshy and opulent, lush fruit and ripe but firm tannin dominating the texture, viscous and concentrated, still retaining a good level of balancing freshness. This is a wine generous in every sense! You can enjoy it now but I would wait 5 - 6 more years for a more harmonious experience. A very very long life ahead! Tonight, I preferred the less over-powering and more harmonious Montrose, as the Pavie seemed a bit too full-on! I do think the Pavie has an extremely long life ahead and will live up to its legendary status with the right amount of bottle age. 18+/20

We finished with Jeremy's selection of cheese, washed down with a half bottle of 2001 Suduiraut from the restaurant's wine list. Jeremy Evrard never fails to impress with his incredible knowledge of cheese and his stories about individual cheesemakers......For me, this is always a highlight at Upper Modern Bistro!

Village delights and a couple of mini M's!

10 Aug 2014: It would be awfully boring if one only experienced Grand Cru Bourgogne all the time.....to get the whole picture of the place, it is important to try the range of appellations from regional to village, Premier Cru and then Grand Cru. There are Bourgogne wines perfect for everyday purposes while others are ideal for convivial occasions with a few good friends.....then there are those more entitled to special celebrations. Here are some interesting examples we tried recently that we recommend:

2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Chanterêves: behind this new micro-négoce is Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott. Tomoko is originally from Japan, and she was the winemaker at Weingut Altenkirch between 2007 and 2011. Guillaume has been the winemaker at Domaine Simon Bize since 2002, prior to that he was winemaker at Etienne Sauzet (1995 - 2002). Intrigued by this new micro-négoce, I bought a couple of bottles of Bourgogne Chardonnay to try. I was very impressed by the quality - a genuine authentic expression of regional Bourgogne (the 100% organically and biodynamicallly grown grapes for this vintage had come from Maranges), use of wild yeast, no bâtonnage, and only seasoned oak was used in the vinification process (3 to 10-year barrels), no fining and only light filtration before bottling. It showed elegance, purity, clear sense of place and expression of the vintage and the grape, balance and a well-defined structure. I would be very happy to have this as house wine! Drink now and over next 4 -5 years. Retailing at HK$ 220 in Hong Kong, It probably cost a bit more than a New World Chardonnay, but that sense of place and the inimitable Bourguignon finesse was worth the extra dollar (in my view)!

Another commendable white is a village white from Marsannay, Côte de Nuits.  It is 2011 Marsanny Les Champs Perdrix, Domaine Marc Roy.  At just 12.5% abv, this wine surprises with a mid-weight frame, with a creamy vinous texture, balanced richness, lively freshness and a crisp finish.  It ticks all the boxes for a more serious house white, perfect with the Sunday dim sum lunch with your family.  Exotic fruit on the nose, overlaid with citrus, toasty and slightly smokey notes. Not too heavy on the palate, but there is a nice smooth texture, with some weight, balanced by a good level of acidity (apparently only 50% malolactic fermentation). Crisp finish. It does not have the depth nor concentration worthy of a higher rating, but the balance and elegance definitely make this a very pleasurable wine at a reasonable price. Retails at HK$ 290 a bottle. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 15.5/20

 

2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, Marc Roy: this was my first bottle from this domaine, now run by 4th generation Alexandrine.  Minimal intervention and sustainable viticulture are practiced here. The grapes from this bottle came from the village part of Clos Prieur (which also had an upper portion declared as Premier Cru), a vineyard below Mazis-Chambertin. The lower part of Clos Prieur has heavier clay soil. Garnet robe. Already a mature bouquet of farmyard, earth, savoury, leather notes, with some spicy (nutmeg, cardamon, cloves) nuances, prune, autumn leaves, slight sappy note. Made in a classic rustic style, but the wine has now reached its plateau of maturity, showing a smooth medium-bodied texture, with a richness and elegance perhaps not quite expected of 2004, but without the concentration and depth of character worthy of a Premier Cru. Medium length finish.  Drink now and over next 2 - 3 years. Retails at HK$ 490 a bottle. I would score this 16/20.

 

2006 Chambolle-Musigny, Roumier: This village wine contains some premier cru Fuées juice. Fresh acidity, silky texture and refined elegance are distinct features of this wine. Some tertiary notes have started to appear: mushroom and earth accompanying the classic pure and ripe red fruit notes of raspberry and plum. Medium bodied, some concentration on palate and good length. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years.  Medium length finish.  Retails at HK$ 1170 a bottle!  16.5/20

And for those special occasions this week, we tried 2 vintages of Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Comte Georges de Vogüé. The Chambolle Premier Cru from this domaine is typically made with young Musigny vines, usually up to 25 years of age.  The 2002 definitely showed the hallmark features of Musigny, with sublime elegance, precise detail and classy firm structure delivered in lightish frame, lacking the concentration and weight for the real stuff.  The tannins can still do with more time to resolve, leaving the wine with a chewy texture still.  Full of vigour and energy, and packed with pure red and black fruit appeal.  I would leave this for 12 - 18 months before trying again.  Drink over next 8 - 10 years!   The 2001 is definitely ready for drinking now but it does not quite have the same fruit appeal and suppleness as the 2002. It is more classic in style, but the detail and harmony are very evident. I would score the 2002 higher than the 2001. I would score 17.5/20 for the 2002 and 17/20 for the 2001.

1990 La Tache

1 Aug 2014: On the back of a very disappointing experience of a seriously out-of-condition magnum bottle of this wine, we decided to try a bottle of this, from the same US importer, Wilson Daniels, to see if the magnum was a singular aberration from the reputed quality of this wine.

1990 La Tâche: Deep garnet robe. An intensive bouquet of red fruit and floral notes greeted the nose, with aromas of raspberry, blueberry, violet and dried rose petals......overlaying some earthy, mushroom and spicy nuances. With extended aeration, the tertiary character kind of gave way to the dominance of an intense pinot perfume of raspberry. The tannins initially still showed a firm quality, together with the concentration and depth of flavours, lending a robust and powerful structure to the wine. The tannins slowly evolved in the glass and delighted the palate with such fleshy and velvety texture, and the flavours clinging onto the tastebuds. There was a very impressive freshness about this wine. Here the incredible balance and understated finesse transcended the apparent richness and opulence. The finish went on for a very long time.

A totally sublime expression! I think this could do with a couple more years of cellaring and watch out for further stunning transformation.......drink from 2016+. 19.5+/20

Nurrrrr-ishing dishes with style

26 July 2014: We were invited to a relatively newcomer to the restaurant scene in Hong Kong. Nur (www.nur.hk), by chef Nurdin Topham, who came to us with years of experience gained with Raymond Blanc at Le Manori Aux Quat' Saisons in the UK....and also Noma, Copenhagen.  The chef's philosophy is to treat fresh produce with respect and to use as much local fresh and organic produce as possible.  The décor, as the food, brought an immediate impression of lightness and freshness.  The tables were well spaced, but close enough to give a lively ambiance to the dining room.  There was a terrace and a single couple was brave enough to enjoy their meal in the humid heat.  The amuse-bouche platter looked almost like a platter of petits fours, so delightfully delicate and colourful!  There are two menus - we had the one called Light.

The Egg dish

The starter of Tomatoes was stunning, packed with sweet and fresh heirloom tomato flavours (all differently coloured) and intensely flavoured tomato water, delicately enhanced by a gossamer of basil essence.  This most refreshing starter was followed by a dish called Crab, which was king crab, pomelo and garden herbs (the herbs are grown on the terrace of the restaurant), another very refreshing creation, but enhanced with the bitter sweetness of the pomelo.  The Salmon dish that followed used organic Irish salmon, with cucumber, smoked buttermilk and dill. This went brilliantly with the 2010 Tasya Reserve, Grace Vineyard that our hosts brought!  Next was the Egg dish: Taiyouran egg, whole grains, shiitake mushroom, with garlic chive.  The warm and crusty house baked organic sourdough bread was gorgeous, spread with mushroom butter!  Two of us then had the Beef dish: roasted Mayura Wagyu skirt, served with black garlic paste.....and the other two had the same dish, replacing the beef with roasted beetroot, equally tasty and nicely textured, with the beetroot perfectly roasted!  Dessert was Watermelon: watermelon and rose, apple custard, sprinkled with pomegranate.  It did not sound like much, but the dish packed with freshness and intensity....very wholesome!  We left the restaurant feeling so 'well-fed', in the best sense possible, with such wholesome, fresh, tasty and artfully presented creations!

Watermelon!

We had brought our own wines but corkage was a little on the high side.  I did not have a chance to look at the wine list....I'll make sure I do that at our next visit, which hopefully will be very soon!

 

Unusual Delicacies at Kin's Kitchen and a Sensational 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires

Lau Kin Wai proudly recommending to us some of his own creations! 

25 July 2014: Dinner at Kin's Kitchen （留家厨房) - we were regaled with some rather unusual dishes....made with ingredients for which I don't have the English names. 

The fungus from Yunnan! In season now, till end August!  Hurry!

The four best dishes that got our unanimous votes were: 1) 干巴菌抄蛋 (Scrambled egg with a seasonal wild fungus from Yunnan); 2) 头抽玉米 (stir fried fresh corn with a really tasty soya sauce); 3) Slow roasted pigeon (cooked at 75 degrees for an hour and a half); 4) 凤眼果炆鸡 (braised chicken with this kernel, a mix between gingko nut and chestnut, really interesting!). All so tasty and unique!

Slow-roasted pigeon; the scrambled egg with fungus (already half gone!)

Quite a fortuitous coincidence that we had taken a bottle of 2003 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc to dinner, when Lau told us that Sauvignon Blanc would do something rather amazing to the fungus. So we tried it.....the fresh taste of the mushroom suddenly took on some rather pungent flavours.....almost sulphurous....not sure what chemical reaction that was.....but it tasted as if it had been stir fried with the essence of a thousand-year-old egg (皮蛋)! Amazing! The fresh corn was so simple, yet so full of flavours! The problem with Chinese kitchen is that all the food came rather suddenly and altogether! Quite difficult to manage!

The braised chicken with the gingko/chestnut cousin!  Again only available this month!

For our wines, we started with a 1995 Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millénaires. Made with Chardonnay from 4 Grand Cru vineyards and 1 Premier Cru vineyard from the Côte des Blancs. Pale lemon. Fine bubbles. A rich bouquet of toast, shortbread, lemon confit, ripe pear, apricot, overlaid with smokey notes. Liquorice, marzipan and candied fruit and hints of minerality filled the finish. Opulent and fleshy, with perfect proportions in every aspect, eager to seduce. Finishes long and still vibrant. A very expressive wine and an absolute delight to indulge! It seemed nicely evolved now on the palate....Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years if you are less keen on the mature style. 18/20 (This yummy bottle was given to us by a friend on another occasion - thank you so much for sharing this with us!)

The 2003 Domaine de Chevalier was much fresher than some of the bottles that we had opened from the same case. Lemon colour. Creamy texture. Pineapple, quince, lanolin and lemon. There was sufficient acidity to keep the palate fresh. It went rather well with the food, and not just in such an amazing way with the scrambled egg with fungus....but it also did a great job with the drunken abalone! It's not a wine for long term cellaring but in the right condition, it makes a great food wine! 16/20


The 1995 Léoville Barton tasted quite meaty and fleshy, with less precise delineation, but packed with blackberry and cassis fruit, with notes of roasted herbs. It lacked a certain precision to be truly exciting. Nevertheless, it was balanced, well-made and certainly a tasty drop! 16/20


The 1995 Mas de Daumas Gassac was sadly corked! So disappointing! Thank goodness, our host even brought a supply of the Léoville Barton, just in case!  Thank you!

Do hurry to get to Kin's Kitchen for these seasonal offerings!  Quite unusual!  Very special!