Israeli Wines

29 Dec 2013: A couple of weeks ago, I was invited to join an Israeli Wine Masterclass, conducted by Alon Yitzhaki (who runs Israel Wine Tour: www.israelwinetour.co.il).  I had no prior expectations, having had practically no experience with Israeli wines.  What I learnt was fascinating and encouraging!  Winemaking in Israel could be traced back to 6,500 years ago, with archaeological discovery of ancient presses to prove. Israel is set between 29 and 33 degrees North latitude, hardly within the 30-50 degrees latitude bandwidth that is commonly associated with most winemaking regions.  To make winemaking possible, they would need to take advantage of north-facing slopes, altitude and moderating influence from lakes and seas.  Vines cover a total of around 5,500 hectares and  there are currently about 300 wineries, of which more than 250 are boutique wineries).

From this tasting, it is clear that Israeli winemakers have worked very hard to demonstrate to the world that Israeli wines are much more than a topic of interest - they have an identity and a promising future!  Key importers are still the US, France, UK, Germany.....it will be nice to see some of these wines reaching the shores of Hong Kong very soon!

There are 5 main regions: Galilee, including Lower Galilee, Upper Galilee and the Golan Heights (the latter two known for high altitude vineyards with cooler climates); Shomron, the Sharon Plain near the Mediterranean coast and just south of Haifa, which is the largest grape-growing region in the country (includes Mount Carmel, Sharon and Shomron Hills); Samson, including Judean Plains and Judean Foothills; and the Judean Hills, south of Jerusalem and the semi-arid Negev region.   

The first wine we tasted was a 2012 Gewurztraminer by Lueria Winery.  The vines are planted in a high altitude (875 metres) vineyard, facing North/NW, in the foothills of Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee.  Pale straw yellow in colour.  The nose showed notes of rose, pineapple, kiwi, Turkish Delight and some spice.  Nicely aromatic, does not have the weight or richness typical of this grape variety, well balanced by fresh acidity.  A very respectable introduction to Israeli wines!

We then tasted 6 red wines:

2010 Four Seasons Pinotage, Assaf

85% Pinotage, with 15% Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  Deep ruby in colour.  Pronounced intensity of coffee, dark chocolate, blackberry and dark cherry, dried fruit, with notes of herbal and sweet tobacco.  Medium bodied, with high tannin and acidity.  A little bitterness at the finish.

2009 Carignan, SoMek

Made with 40-year-old Carignan vines from the Carmel Region.  Aged in French oak barrels for 24 months before bottling and ageing for another 2 years before release.  Medium ruby colour.  Black cherry, pepper, liquorice, vanilla and toast.  Medium-full body, high acidity, with ripe tannin, with a firm backbone. The alcohol was a bit higher at 14% abv, but well disguised by the layers of high quality ripe fruit.  Can easily be enjoyed now or for further cellaring. 

2011 Layam, Agur

Agur is a boutique winery with vineyards in the Judean Hills, south of Jerusalem.  This wine showed cool climate characteristics and a fine balance and elegance, in a mid-weight style.  50% Syrah and 50% Mourvedre, grown in the Judean Hills.  Aged for 14 months in 1-year French oak barrels.  Red fruit, black pepper, herbal and violet.  Purity of fruit persisted on the palate, enhanced with a stoney mineral note, finishes almost salty!  (Layam means "To the Sea".) A wine to be enjoyed now and in the mid-term. 

2010 Lennon, Sea Horse Winery

Sea Horse Winery is a boutique winery located in the Judean Hills, where there are big diurnal differences between warm days and very cool nights, especially at the higher altitudes.  Sea Horse is about 500 metres high, with the vineyards on terra rosa soils.  This wine was dedicated to John Lennon......Organically grown Zinfandel, at 500 metres high, with very low yields. 75% Zinfandel, 12.5% Petite Syrah and 12.5% Mourvedre.  Aged in American oak for 16 months.  Succulent and fleshy, notes of dark cherry, dried fruit and spice.  Ripe firm tannin, balanced by a medium level of acidity.  A very good effort for Zinfandel....and rather moreish.

2011 Shoresh, Tzora Vineyards

A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah and 3% Merlot.  Vineyard in the Judean Hills. 16 months in French barriques. I very much liked the finesse and elegance, balance and complexity of this wine.  Dark fruit, black pepper, graphite and some herbaceous notes. Full-bodied but well balanced with lively acidity and ripe firm tannin.  Well-made and well-proportioned.  Finishes long. I particularly liked the sensible alcohol level of 13.5% abv!  2011 had a cooler growing season (2010 was a very hot year).....and this helped deliver a fine harmony to this wine.  A wine that can be enjoyed now, just, with many years of life ahead.

2010 Black Tulip, Tulip

Flagship wine of the Tulip Winery.  This is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, mostly from Judean Hills vineyards, with some Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upper Galilee.  This is an opulent example of a Bordeaux blend from Israel, from a very ripe vintage, showing notes of ripe blackberry preserve, dried fruit, tobacco, vanilla and toast.  Velvety textured, with a full body and firm structure to give long ageing potential.  This came in at a whopping 15.5% abv! A wine for mid to long-term cellaring.  I would try this again in 6 - 8+ years' time.  (Tulip Winery is also known for the role it plays in the community, offering people with special needs employment at the winery.)  

That was my first tasting of Israeli wines....educational and interesting.....so far so impressive.....and I look forward to trying more - a visit to Israel would be even better!

1949 Richebourg, Leroy

25 Dec 2013:
Christmas drinks!

1949 Richebourg, Leroy
Medium garnet. Sauvage notes of underbrush and earth, with some Asian spice. The palate initially lacked harmony and finesse, even showed signs of fatigue....we had thought this might be past its best. Yet, after 3 hours of opening and time in the glass, this transformed into a wine of much harmony and elegance, with just the right amount of acidity keeping the palate fresh and lively. Long and complex finish.....showing coffee and Asian spicy notes. A gorgeous transformation! 18/20

2001 Montrachet, Ramonet
This showed a bright golden colour. Notes of lemon, pear, smoke, nuts, candied fruit and honey. Rather rich and evolved on the palate....I would have preferred a bit more energy on the palate. For me, this did not quite deliver the class or supremacy of Montrachet. 16/20

The Formidable 1989 Petrus

Poularde from Bresse, roast with 'Melansporum' black truffle, braised savoy cabbage and polenta

24 Dec 2013: Our Christmas Eve treat - a glass of Pol Roger 2002 with mince pie (topped with a generous dollop of brandy butter, followed dinner at Otto e Mezzo, Hong Kong! The 2002 Pol Roger was rich, creamy and well-balanced, with notes of floral, toast, spice and honey....but somehow it did not quite have the vibrancy nor the elegance of the Blanc de Blancs of the same vintage that we enjoyed a few nights ago. The 2002 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs had a lovely bouquet of brioche, shortbread, pear tart, honey, marzipan, dried fruit, hazelnut and acacia. It was rich, voluptuous and complex but the body and weight well balanced by a vibrant acidity, leaving a long crisp finish. I would probably drink this within the next 5 - 6 years for optimum enjoyment but fans of old champagne could hang on to see how the bottle development would add to the complexity. I rated the 2002 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 17.5/20 and the 2002 Pol Roger 16.5/20. 

At Otto e Mezzo, every single dish was impeccably executed and elegantly presented. We started with a carpaccio of abalone confit, with caviar and blood orange dressing. The abalone was nice and tender and the caviar added some lovely salinity to the taste. A drop of Krug Grande Cuvée did the perfect drop to pair with this dish! This was followed by blue lobster and scrambled egg with white truffle. This was sensational....I probably would have preferred them in two courses, the scrambled egg with white truffle and the al-dente blue lobster separately served!

Malaga Wild Strawberry, pink Moscato Sabayon, Strawberry Pastry Cream Bomboloone

The highlights for me were really the chanterelle risotto - perfectly al dente, with an intensely flavoured mushroom jus and the Bresse Poularde, a signature dish of the restaurant - juicy Bresse chicken, so perfect with a thin layer of black truffle, polenta and braised savoy cabbage.....even a Brussel sprout stuffed with sausage meat! The wild strawberry dessert was another highlight.....wild strawberries decorating a Moscato sabayon, so decadent with the caramel-filled doughnut!  This was followed by panettone with a luscious dollop of mascarpone cream!

For this sumptuous meal, we opened a bottle of 1989 Pétrus. A 20/20 wine for me! Deep ruby hue. An intense and ripe nose of blueberry preserve, dried fruit, burnt cream, date, mocha, roasted herbs and fenugreek. Massively concentrated and so perfectly proportioned and detailed, with layers of flavours unravelling on the palate....velvety texture firmly bolstered by ripe but firm tannin and such vibrant acidity. A virile wine of monolithic proportions and power that is still so full of energy of its youth. I would keep this for a while before trying again.......Try again in 2018 and enjoy over next 30 years!. Long long finish. 20/20

On another note, we had the 1989 Lynch Bages recently. A brilliant effort, with lots of intensity, great complexity, perfect proportions and a very long finish. Perhaps a little bit more evolved than the 1989 Pétrus and while still massive and concentrated, this can be enjoyed now with a bit of aeration. Cassis, tobacco, cedar and graphite. Can do with some time to round out the muscular elements, but beautifully integrated, with ripe tannin and refreshing acidity. A remarkable effort that finished very long. Drink in a couple of years' time and over another 20 - 30 years. 19.5/20 

Christmas Tree of 2013!

To finish our meal at Otto e Mezzo, we had 1988 Yquem. Bright and intensely golden. Bouquet of honey, dried apricot and pineapple, marmalade, macadamia and rye toast. Beautiful tropical fruit and honey notes on the palate....intensely rich and concentrated but deftly balanced by lively acidity...giving a wonderful lift to the long finish. A powerful wine that is to last ages! I would drink this over the next 50 years! 19.5/20

A beautiful Christmassy bouquet.........!

A Long Lunch with Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau

8 Dec 2013: With the memory of the Chambertins still fresh, the hard-core winelovers and foodies went back for Round 2: a vertical of Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques. As I wrote to thank our very generous host afterwards, each of these wines would have been a classic in its own right, but a direct comparison with the Chambertins would have been so unfair.  To me, the Chambertins were quite clearly in a different class in terms of sheer power and concentration, whereas the Clos Saint Jacques delighted us with their elegance and finesse.

We began with a few Selosse champagnes, followed by some Bâtard Montrachets, before we began the reds.

NV Selosse Les Carelles
Pale golden hue. Nutty and savoury on the nose….with lots of mineral notes on the palate. An almost salty finish Perfectly paired the oyster – it brought out a sweetness and a lovely creaminess in the oyster. 18/20

1996 Selosse (Disgorged in February 2005)
A tour de force, underlined with power, concentration and tension. Incredibly youthful and almost nervy to the taste now. The flavours are tensely wrapped up in a texture of creamy mousse. Reminded me of a Grand Cru Chablis in its adolescence, sultry and tense. Finishes crisp and extremely long. This needs a lot more time to unwind its very tight structure. 19/20

1986 Selosse (Disgorged in May 1995)
Medium gold. A ripe and mature nose of pear tart, dried apricot and brioche. Still marked by some vigour, but much more mellow than the 1996, weighty on the palate, with a smooth texture and delicate mousse….almost sweet on the finish. 18.5/20

2007 Meursault, Coche-Dury
This took a little while to wake up…..but the transformation was worth the wait! Mineral-infused notes on palate, citrus, with a lingering saline finish. Almost Chablis like. Drink now and over next 10+ years. 17.5/20

1997 Meursault, Coche-Dury
A deep golden hue. Very evolved now. Honey, almost caramel, toasted hazelnuts, very smokey, with savoury and earthy nuances. Finishes spicy. Still retaining just sufficient freshness for me….and worked rather well with food….especially the smokey foie gras, infused with cumin, aniseed and ginger. Drink now. 17/20

The Branches of the Tree - the smokey flavoured foie gras bird's nests on the tree!

2005 Bâtard Montrachet, Leflaive
It seems the 2005 vintage has finally begun to shake off its initial austerity, to reveal a more voluptuous and sensual side to it. Pear, peach, toast, vanilla and lanolin. Waxy on the palate, with a rounded mouthfeel. A very classy expression of the power and depth of this terroir, with sufficient freshness to support this weighty structure. Drinking now but I think this could benefit from a few more years of integration. Drink from 2015+. 18/20

1995 Bâtard Montrachet, Leflaive
Fleshy but not heavy, fresh to taste. Honey, gingerbread, pear tart, with smokey and toasty notes. Full-bodied, the flavours are more subtle compared to the JN Gagnard, but with a firmer structure and a crispness to the long finish. A classy Bâtard. Drinking now and over next 6 – 8+ years. 18/20

1995 Bâtard Montrachet, Jean-Noel Gagnard
Luscious and full. Nougat, ginger and hint of smoke dominate the nose, with liquorice notes at the finish. A rich display of flavours on the palate. Totally unreserved. Finishes very long. Needs to be paired with something equally boisterous, lobster with saffron?? 17.5/20


Next we started the flight of Clos Saint Jacques:

1989 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A little astringent on the long finish. Lively acidity….appearing not so generous on the palate, with a medium weight frame. Animal and spicy notes. Needing just a bit more time for the tannin to fully resolve? A wine with character rather than a wine that charms. Drink now and over next 6 – 8+ years. 16.5/20

1988 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A gorgeously mature bouquet: animal, savoury, plum, coffee, sous-bois…….smoothed out texture, perhaps a little lacking in lift on the palate, compared to the higher acidity of the 1989. Drink this now. At peak. 16.5/20

1990 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
Very fresh on the nose, as on the palate. Notes of fresh red fruit (redcurrant and cranberry), with some spiciness. Medium-bodied, but there is good level of density and concentration. So youthful, so energetic. Finishes long. Quite amazing that it tastes so young. A superb effort. Drink now or over next 10 - 12+ years. 17.5/20

1990 Gevery-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Fourrier
By comparison to the Rousseau, much more evolved......savoury and plum notes. A little astringency on the finish. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years for best enjoyment? 15/20

1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
I found this a little closed and subdued today. Spicy with some fruity notes, but hardly generous….Well-structured and balanced though. Astringent finish. Try this again in 3 – 4 years time. 16/20

1985 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A beautifully aged Burgundian nose. Rather reminiscent of the 1985 Chambertin Clos de Bèze of the previous evening. Animal, sous-bois, leather, coffee and spicy. However attractive the nose is, the palate lacks a bit of vigour and depth……probably just past peak…..would drink this now for optimal enjoyment. (On hindsight, this might have benefitted from being served in a much smaller glass than the big fat Burgundy glasses.) 17/20

1961 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
Served in a smaller glass than the younger vintages. Sous-bois, sauvage, earthy, coffee and bacon notes layer the bouquet and flavours. There is a very appealing freshness on the palate, keeping the wine in balance and structure intact, even though it’s not particularly concentrated or rich. A wine with character, finesse and a fine backbone. This delivered way beyond expectations. 17.5/20

2000 Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles, Trimbach
Deep golden hue. Reminded me of Turkish delight, dried apricot, caramel, nuts and rye bread. Full-bodied, lusciously sweet, plenty going on, balanced with lively acidity. A marvellous expression of this fiddly and somewhat divisive grape variety ……some love it with a passion, others find the extreme spiciness and pungency, more than an acquired taste! 18/20

This might not have been the best wine to pair with the dessert called “Ethereal” but it was the most heavenly and indulgent dessert with a giant ball of candyfloss, dusted with dark chocolate, and as the warm praline sauce was poured on top, the candyfloss ball caved in, like a balloon losing air. What decadence!

Ethereal - Before the pouring of the sauce

Ethereal - after the pouring of the sauce!!! So wickedly decadent!

The Masterly Acts of Rousseau

7 Dec 2013: It’s always a treat to be invited to a meal by Chef Xavier Gutiérrez at DN-Innovación, Taipei. And even more of a treat to be invited to two, complete with world class wines by Rousseau, Krug, Selosse and others.

Our first meal started with 2 pairs of Krugs:

1990 Krug
A more mature bouquet than the 1988 Krug. A very ripe vintage. Caramel, hazelnut, dried fruit, very ripe pear, with liquorice, gingerbread and savoury nuances. Spicy on the finish. Creamy mousse. Weighty palate. I would drink this earlier than later to preserve the freshness. 17/20

1988 Krug
This tasted much fresher than the 1990 Krug. Green apple, citrus, lemon confit, honey and toasted almond. Vivacious acidity, plenty of energy on the palate. There seemed to be much more precision than the 1990 Krug, and an altogether much better experience. 18/20

1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was a complete change to the 1990 Krug. A lot more tension on the palate, with minerality, depth, energy, power and intensity. Notes of honey, cinnamon, a hint of savoury…..very elegantly balanced. Persistent finish. Utterly sensational. 19/20

1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was a wine of superlative proportions! There were hints of pear, spice, toasted nuts, herbal (tarragon) on the nose. Very spicy and stony minerality on the palate, matched with such refined structure of tiny creamy bubbles, elegant balance, intensity, vibrancy (almost racy) and a terrific purity. This delivered a long saline finish. A wine in a class of its own! 19.5/20

1985 Montrachet, Ramonet
Incredibly complex on the nose……spices of cardamom and ginger, layered with caramel and savoury notes. A superb expression of the power and depth of Montrachet, with freshness, leading to a lingering finish. Just a hint of dryness on the finish for this bottle. 18.5/20

1959 Montrachet, Bouchard
What an extraordinary experience to taste a Montrachet with such age! Yet, this tasted remarkably younger than its age, with the balance of richness, complexity and some freshness. Very ripe and mature notes of toffee, roasted hazelnuts and honey, with liquorice and some sherry notes at the end. Finishes long. 17.5/20 (I think the fish course may not have done justice to this wine….I would probably suggest pairing with a fine Epoisses.)

The serving of Iberico Bellota ham sandwich heralded in the flight of Rousseau Chambertins.

1993 Chambertin, Rousseau
Still relatively youthful. Complex on the nose with notes of animal, earth, coffee and plum. Lively freshness and fine tannin giving a finely chiselled firm structure. A powerful yet restrained wine. This could be enjoyed now but I might just give this another 3 – 4 years before trying again. 18/20

1993 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau
Much more flamboyant and open than the Chambertin. Silky textue, with a complex array of aromas and flavours, with even a hint of sweetness from the ripe fruit. Very fine details on the palate. While the Chambertin was restrained, this was utterly charming and seductive. Finishes long. 18/20

1985 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau
In a word, sensational, coming right after the 1993’s, this wine totally elevated the tasting to a different level. Aromatically complex, with layers of spice, sous-bois, coffee and plum. The palate demonstrated such depth of character, concentration of ripe materials and tremendous energy, in a medium-bodied frame with refined texture. A very complete experience of balance, harmony, complexity and depth. Drink now and over next 10+ years. 19/20

1964 Chambertin, Rousseau
A display of richness and power of the Chambertin terrroir. This continued to develop in the glass. An initial hint of soy sauce gave way to notes of coffee, earth, leather and spice. This was a class act, in altogether a different style to the 85 or 59. Drink now and over next 5 – 6+ years. 18/20 (This was excellently paired with the Yilan duck breast with bitter cocoa paper!)

1959 Chambertin, Rousseau
The quintessential mature Burgundy, with such finesse and grace, an elegant structure that conveys its inimitable style. The bouquet is sous-bois, earthy, coffee with hints of spice. The complex flavours are coated with a sweetness and richness, delivered in expansive layers in the mouth, leading to a very long and fine finish. This profound expression has reached its apogee and should deliver equally truly memorable experience in the next 6 – 8+ years. 19/20

The Yilan duck breast....yummy!

In the mix, our host also interjected a couple of Leroy Chambertins, the 1971 Chambertin Clos de Bèze and the 1961 Chambertin…..both seemed rather subdued on this evening, compared with the Rousseaus.

We finished with a youthful 1963 Taylor's port......!

This incredible evening really paid homage to the brilliant craftsmanship of Charles Rousseau, from the 1959 to 1993, such fine expressions of terroir and extreme high quality and consistency that lasted the decades. It would be very interesting to retry the 1993s (together with the Clos Saint Jacques) in a few more years…..

A Pre-Christmas Get-Together: 1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque best wine of the evening!

15 December 2013: A pre-Christmas dinner with a few drinking buddies. Our venue this time was The Coterie, a private kitchen/Swiss wine specialist partnership between Damien Fleury and chef Jacques Kägi. The Coterie recently featured in the 2013 Louis Vuitton guide as a recommended private kitchen in HK. We all had the Louis Vuitton Tasting Menu.

As aperitif, we had a 2004 Cuvée des Caudalies, de Sousa. A Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, vinified in oak, and with malolactic fermentation. Pale lemon. Very fine bubbles. Toast, honey and pear notes on the nose, with mineral nuances to match on the palate. Racy acidity, fine balance and vigour, delivered with the creamy mousse. Finishes long and almost salty. Much better served in a white wine glass. This would be perfect with caviar or oysters! Not bad too with the salmon tartare (half of us had the salmon tartare and the other half the Welsh lamb tartare). 18/20

Salmon tartare

Welsh lamb tartare

Next wine was the 1999 Chevalier Montrachet, Etienne Sauzet. Pale gold. Toasted almonds, pear, smoke and honey on the nose. Plenty of freshness and energy on the slightly waxy palate. Long minerally finish, with just a hint of astringency. This is drinking very well now and will continue to drink over next 8 - 10+ years. 18/20

Gooseliver Chawanmushi with Sea Urchin

1996 Dom Perignon Oenothèque: An awesome champagne, that has so much detail, precision, power and elegance. Served in a white wine glass, the seductive bouquet was toast, nutty, lemon confit with savoury notes. There is a superbly refine structure underneath the medium/full body, vibrant acidity, minerality that is reminiscent of crushed stones, and bubbles of such finesse. Still tasting very youthful and full of tension. A mesmerising experience. This went beautifully with the '‘Gooseliver “Chawanmushi” with Sea Urchins " - warm foie gras 'custard', topped with a serving of very fresh sea urchin. Divine! 19.5/20

Bretagne blue lobster "sous-vide", beurre noisette, with Schabziger

Then we compared a pair of Lafites: 1966 (half) and 1978. I only got a tiny sip of the 1966 but I found it too musty and very weak in structure - past its peak. 14/20 The 1978 Lafite showed a very mature bouquet of leather, tobacco and cedar, with some remnants of red fruit. Almost sweet on entry. Rather light frame, but still retaining a reasonable structure and silky texture, though drying finish. This was a good effort for the vintage, but from this experience, I would drink this up pretty soon! Perhaps the larger formats could see through their 40th birthday!  Nonetheless a fine old-styled claret.  15.5/20

After the cauliflower, truffle soup, the next course was "Bretagne Blue Lobster “Sous vide”, Beurre Noisette with Shabzieger" - lobster cooked sous-vide with tomato and Schabziger cheese (a cow milk cheese made with skimmed milk and a herb called blue fenugreek). Very intense flavours here, and great lobster texture. Beautifully executed. We tasted the 2003 Richebourg, A-F Gros. This had been decanted for about an hour but could probably do with more bottle age before trying again. Today, this was not a good expression of the Burgundian terroir - it did not deliver the finesse and elegance one normally expected of Bourgogne wines, but the signs of the vintage were all there. The nose was very ripe black cherry, earth, fig, with some sweet spice. Almost full bodied, lowish in acidity, with a slight bitterness at the finish.  16/20

Iberico pork, potatoes dauphinois, with racelette

The main course of "Iberico Pork, Potatoes Dauphinois with Raclette" was tasty but perhaps a touch over-cooked? The meat was a little tough. A slower temperature and just pink might be better for the pork. For the wines, we compared the 1997 Henschke Hill of Grace with 1989 Penfolds Grange.

1997 Henschke Hill of Grace: Very ripe fruit filled the bouquet of bramble pie, black cherry, blackberry, dried fruit, roasted herbs and sweet spices. Full-bodied, very ripe soft but chewy still tannin. For me, this lacked a bit of acidity. I would wait a few more years before trying again....Drink now and over next 10 - 12+ years. (On reflection, this might have benefitted from some decanting time.) 17/20

1989 Penfolds Grange: 91% Shiraz, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. This showed some signs of maturity: meaty and savoury notes, slowly revealing layers of sweet boiled fruit, black pepper and spice. Fleshy but firm structure, with grippy tannin and a good dose of refreshing acidity. Drink now and over next 10 - 12+ years. 17.5/20

2006 Opus One: 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec. Aged in new French oak for 17 months. Decanted for almost 2 hours. Blackcurrant, blackberry, bramble, liquorice, roasted herbs, with chocolate and mocha notes. A bold and masculine wine, with ripe chewy tannin and medium acidity. Not an elegant expression, rather a big structured wine that would benefit from more years in bottle. Drink now and over next 15+ years. 17.5/20

We all had a wonderful and indulgent evening and it was a great discovery of venue too! I highly recommend The Coterie if you are looking for an unassuming yet sophisticated intimate venue - only 2 private rooms! Very friendly chef Jacques who is Swiss-Chinese and he even comes out to greet us in Cantonese! Damien and his wife looked after us extremely well! (And he has a very good stock of Swiss whites for your next fondue/raclette party as well as some delicious Syrahs (Cayas) by Jean-Rene Germanier and his divine dessert wine called Mitis. Damien's website is: www.theswisswinestore.com) Just one tip: if you're planning to serve some old bottles, it might be a good idea to bring your own Durand.....