Israeli Wines

29 Dec 2013: A couple of weeks ago, I was invited to join an Israeli Wine Masterclass, conducted by Alon Yitzhaki (who runs Israel Wine Tour: www.israelwinetour.co.il).  I had no prior expectations, having had practically no experience with Israeli wines.  What I learnt was fascinating and encouraging!  Winemaking in Israel could be traced back to 6,500 years ago, with archaeological discovery of ancient presses to prove. Israel is set between 29 and 33 degrees North latitude, hardly within the 30-50 degrees latitude bandwidth that is commonly associated with most winemaking regions.  To make winemaking possible, they would need to take advantage of north-facing slopes, altitude and moderating influence from lakes and seas.  Vines cover a total of around 5,500 hectares and  there are currently about 300 wineries, of which more than 250 are boutique wineries).

From this tasting, it is clear that Israeli winemakers have worked very hard to demonstrate to the world that Israeli wines are much more than a topic of interest - they have an identity and a promising future!  Key importers are still the US, France, UK, Germany.....it will be nice to see some of these wines reaching the shores of Hong Kong very soon!

There are 5 main regions: Galilee, including Lower Galilee, Upper Galilee and the Golan Heights (the latter two known for high altitude vineyards with cooler climates); Shomron, the Sharon Plain near the Mediterranean coast and just south of Haifa, which is the largest grape-growing region in the country (includes Mount Carmel, Sharon and Shomron Hills); Samson, including Judean Plains and Judean Foothills; and the Judean Hills, south of Jerusalem and the semi-arid Negev region.   

The first wine we tasted was a 2012 Gewurztraminer by Lueria Winery.  The vines are planted in a high altitude (875 metres) vineyard, facing North/NW, in the foothills of Mount Meron in the Upper Galilee.  Pale straw yellow in colour.  The nose showed notes of rose, pineapple, kiwi, Turkish Delight and some spice.  Nicely aromatic, does not have the weight or richness typical of this grape variety, well balanced by fresh acidity.  A very respectable introduction to Israeli wines!

We then tasted 6 red wines:

2010 Four Seasons Pinotage, Assaf

85% Pinotage, with 15% Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc.  Deep ruby in colour.  Pronounced intensity of coffee, dark chocolate, blackberry and dark cherry, dried fruit, with notes of herbal and sweet tobacco.  Medium bodied, with high tannin and acidity.  A little bitterness at the finish.

2009 Carignan, SoMek

Made with 40-year-old Carignan vines from the Carmel Region.  Aged in French oak barrels for 24 months before bottling and ageing for another 2 years before release.  Medium ruby colour.  Black cherry, pepper, liquorice, vanilla and toast.  Medium-full body, high acidity, with ripe tannin, with a firm backbone. The alcohol was a bit higher at 14% abv, but well disguised by the layers of high quality ripe fruit.  Can easily be enjoyed now or for further cellaring. 

2011 Layam, Agur

Agur is a boutique winery with vineyards in the Judean Hills, south of Jerusalem.  This wine showed cool climate characteristics and a fine balance and elegance, in a mid-weight style.  50% Syrah and 50% Mourvedre, grown in the Judean Hills.  Aged for 14 months in 1-year French oak barrels.  Red fruit, black pepper, herbal and violet.  Purity of fruit persisted on the palate, enhanced with a stoney mineral note, finishes almost salty!  (Layam means "To the Sea".) A wine to be enjoyed now and in the mid-term. 

2010 Lennon, Sea Horse Winery

Sea Horse Winery is a boutique winery located in the Judean Hills, where there are big diurnal differences between warm days and very cool nights, especially at the higher altitudes.  Sea Horse is about 500 metres high, with the vineyards on terra rosa soils.  This wine was dedicated to John Lennon......Organically grown Zinfandel, at 500 metres high, with very low yields. 75% Zinfandel, 12.5% Petite Syrah and 12.5% Mourvedre.  Aged in American oak for 16 months.  Succulent and fleshy, notes of dark cherry, dried fruit and spice.  Ripe firm tannin, balanced by a medium level of acidity.  A very good effort for Zinfandel....and rather moreish.

2011 Shoresh, Tzora Vineyards

A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Syrah and 3% Merlot.  Vineyard in the Judean Hills. 16 months in French barriques. I very much liked the finesse and elegance, balance and complexity of this wine.  Dark fruit, black pepper, graphite and some herbaceous notes. Full-bodied but well balanced with lively acidity and ripe firm tannin.  Well-made and well-proportioned.  Finishes long. I particularly liked the sensible alcohol level of 13.5% abv!  2011 had a cooler growing season (2010 was a very hot year).....and this helped deliver a fine harmony to this wine.  A wine that can be enjoyed now, just, with many years of life ahead.

2010 Black Tulip, Tulip

Flagship wine of the Tulip Winery.  This is a blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 6% Petit Verdot, mostly from Judean Hills vineyards, with some Cabernet Sauvignon from the Upper Galilee.  This is an opulent example of a Bordeaux blend from Israel, from a very ripe vintage, showing notes of ripe blackberry preserve, dried fruit, tobacco, vanilla and toast.  Velvety textured, with a full body and firm structure to give long ageing potential.  This came in at a whopping 15.5% abv! A wine for mid to long-term cellaring.  I would try this again in 6 - 8+ years' time.  (Tulip Winery is also known for the role it plays in the community, offering people with special needs employment at the winery.)  

That was my first tasting of Israeli wines....educational and interesting.....so far so impressive.....and I look forward to trying more - a visit to Israel would be even better!

1949 Richebourg, Leroy

25 Dec 2013:
Christmas drinks!

1949 Richebourg, Leroy
Medium garnet. Sauvage notes of underbrush and earth, with some Asian spice. The palate initially lacked harmony and finesse, even showed signs of fatigue....we had thought this might be past its best. Yet, after 3 hours of opening and time in the glass, this transformed into a wine of much harmony and elegance, with just the right amount of acidity keeping the palate fresh and lively. Long and complex finish.....showing coffee and Asian spicy notes. A gorgeous transformation! 18/20

2001 Montrachet, Ramonet
This showed a bright golden colour. Notes of lemon, pear, smoke, nuts, candied fruit and honey. Rather rich and evolved on the palate....I would have preferred a bit more energy on the palate. For me, this did not quite deliver the class or supremacy of Montrachet. 16/20

The Formidable 1989 Petrus

Poularde from Bresse, roast with 'Melansporum' black truffle, braised savoy cabbage and polenta

24 Dec 2013: Our Christmas Eve treat - a glass of Pol Roger 2002 with mince pie (topped with a generous dollop of brandy butter, followed dinner at Otto e Mezzo, Hong Kong! The 2002 Pol Roger was rich, creamy and well-balanced, with notes of floral, toast, spice and honey....but somehow it did not quite have the vibrancy nor the elegance of the Blanc de Blancs of the same vintage that we enjoyed a few nights ago. The 2002 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs had a lovely bouquet of brioche, shortbread, pear tart, honey, marzipan, dried fruit, hazelnut and acacia. It was rich, voluptuous and complex but the body and weight well balanced by a vibrant acidity, leaving a long crisp finish. I would probably drink this within the next 5 - 6 years for optimum enjoyment but fans of old champagne could hang on to see how the bottle development would add to the complexity. I rated the 2002 Pol Roger Blanc de Blancs 17.5/20 and the 2002 Pol Roger 16.5/20. 

At Otto e Mezzo, every single dish was impeccably executed and elegantly presented. We started with a carpaccio of abalone confit, with caviar and blood orange dressing. The abalone was nice and tender and the caviar added some lovely salinity to the taste. A drop of Krug Grande Cuvée did the perfect drop to pair with this dish! This was followed by blue lobster and scrambled egg with white truffle. This was sensational....I probably would have preferred them in two courses, the scrambled egg with white truffle and the al-dente blue lobster separately served!

Malaga Wild Strawberry, pink Moscato Sabayon, Strawberry Pastry Cream Bomboloone

The highlights for me were really the chanterelle risotto - perfectly al dente, with an intensely flavoured mushroom jus and the Bresse Poularde, a signature dish of the restaurant - juicy Bresse chicken, so perfect with a thin layer of black truffle, polenta and braised savoy cabbage.....even a Brussel sprout stuffed with sausage meat! The wild strawberry dessert was another highlight.....wild strawberries decorating a Moscato sabayon, so decadent with the caramel-filled doughnut!  This was followed by panettone with a luscious dollop of mascarpone cream!

For this sumptuous meal, we opened a bottle of 1989 Pétrus. A 20/20 wine for me! Deep ruby hue. An intense and ripe nose of blueberry preserve, dried fruit, burnt cream, date, mocha, roasted herbs and fenugreek. Massively concentrated and so perfectly proportioned and detailed, with layers of flavours unravelling on the palate....velvety texture firmly bolstered by ripe but firm tannin and such vibrant acidity. A virile wine of monolithic proportions and power that is still so full of energy of its youth. I would keep this for a while before trying again.......Try again in 2018 and enjoy over next 30 years!. Long long finish. 20/20

On another note, we had the 1989 Lynch Bages recently. A brilliant effort, with lots of intensity, great complexity, perfect proportions and a very long finish. Perhaps a little bit more evolved than the 1989 Pétrus and while still massive and concentrated, this can be enjoyed now with a bit of aeration. Cassis, tobacco, cedar and graphite. Can do with some time to round out the muscular elements, but beautifully integrated, with ripe tannin and refreshing acidity. A remarkable effort that finished very long. Drink in a couple of years' time and over another 20 - 30 years. 19.5/20 

Christmas Tree of 2013!

To finish our meal at Otto e Mezzo, we had 1988 Yquem. Bright and intensely golden. Bouquet of honey, dried apricot and pineapple, marmalade, macadamia and rye toast. Beautiful tropical fruit and honey notes on the palate....intensely rich and concentrated but deftly balanced by lively acidity...giving a wonderful lift to the long finish. A powerful wine that is to last ages! I would drink this over the next 50 years! 19.5/20

A beautiful Christmassy bouquet.........!

A Long Lunch with Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau

8 Dec 2013: With the memory of the Chambertins still fresh, the hard-core winelovers and foodies went back for Round 2: a vertical of Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques. As I wrote to thank our very generous host afterwards, each of these wines would have been a classic in its own right, but a direct comparison with the Chambertins would have been so unfair.  To me, the Chambertins were quite clearly in a different class in terms of sheer power and concentration, whereas the Clos Saint Jacques delighted us with their elegance and finesse.

We began with a few Selosse champagnes, followed by some Bâtard Montrachets, before we began the reds.

NV Selosse Les Carelles
Pale golden hue. Nutty and savoury on the nose….with lots of mineral notes on the palate. An almost salty finish Perfectly paired the oyster – it brought out a sweetness and a lovely creaminess in the oyster. 18/20

1996 Selosse (Disgorged in February 2005)
A tour de force, underlined with power, concentration and tension. Incredibly youthful and almost nervy to the taste now. The flavours are tensely wrapped up in a texture of creamy mousse. Reminded me of a Grand Cru Chablis in its adolescence, sultry and tense. Finishes crisp and extremely long. This needs a lot more time to unwind its very tight structure. 19/20

1986 Selosse (Disgorged in May 1995)
Medium gold. A ripe and mature nose of pear tart, dried apricot and brioche. Still marked by some vigour, but much more mellow than the 1996, weighty on the palate, with a smooth texture and delicate mousse….almost sweet on the finish. 18.5/20

2007 Meursault, Coche-Dury
This took a little while to wake up…..but the transformation was worth the wait! Mineral-infused notes on palate, citrus, with a lingering saline finish. Almost Chablis like. Drink now and over next 10+ years. 17.5/20

1997 Meursault, Coche-Dury
A deep golden hue. Very evolved now. Honey, almost caramel, toasted hazelnuts, very smokey, with savoury and earthy nuances. Finishes spicy. Still retaining just sufficient freshness for me….and worked rather well with food….especially the smokey foie gras, infused with cumin, aniseed and ginger. Drink now. 17/20

The Branches of the Tree - the smokey flavoured foie gras bird's nests on the tree!

2005 Bâtard Montrachet, Leflaive
It seems the 2005 vintage has finally begun to shake off its initial austerity, to reveal a more voluptuous and sensual side to it. Pear, peach, toast, vanilla and lanolin. Waxy on the palate, with a rounded mouthfeel. A very classy expression of the power and depth of this terroir, with sufficient freshness to support this weighty structure. Drinking now but I think this could benefit from a few more years of integration. Drink from 2015+. 18/20

1995 Bâtard Montrachet, Leflaive
Fleshy but not heavy, fresh to taste. Honey, gingerbread, pear tart, with smokey and toasty notes. Full-bodied, the flavours are more subtle compared to the JN Gagnard, but with a firmer structure and a crispness to the long finish. A classy Bâtard. Drinking now and over next 6 – 8+ years. 18/20

1995 Bâtard Montrachet, Jean-Noel Gagnard
Luscious and full. Nougat, ginger and hint of smoke dominate the nose, with liquorice notes at the finish. A rich display of flavours on the palate. Totally unreserved. Finishes very long. Needs to be paired with something equally boisterous, lobster with saffron?? 17.5/20


Next we started the flight of Clos Saint Jacques:

1989 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A little astringent on the long finish. Lively acidity….appearing not so generous on the palate, with a medium weight frame. Animal and spicy notes. Needing just a bit more time for the tannin to fully resolve? A wine with character rather than a wine that charms. Drink now and over next 6 – 8+ years. 16.5/20

1988 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A gorgeously mature bouquet: animal, savoury, plum, coffee, sous-bois…….smoothed out texture, perhaps a little lacking in lift on the palate, compared to the higher acidity of the 1989. Drink this now. At peak. 16.5/20

1990 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
Very fresh on the nose, as on the palate. Notes of fresh red fruit (redcurrant and cranberry), with some spiciness. Medium-bodied, but there is good level of density and concentration. So youthful, so energetic. Finishes long. Quite amazing that it tastes so young. A superb effort. Drink now or over next 10 - 12+ years. 17.5/20

1990 Gevery-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Fourrier
By comparison to the Rousseau, much more evolved......savoury and plum notes. A little astringency on the finish. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years for best enjoyment? 15/20

1995 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
I found this a little closed and subdued today. Spicy with some fruity notes, but hardly generous….Well-structured and balanced though. Astringent finish. Try this again in 3 – 4 years time. 16/20

1985 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
A beautifully aged Burgundian nose. Rather reminiscent of the 1985 Chambertin Clos de Bèze of the previous evening. Animal, sous-bois, leather, coffee and spicy. However attractive the nose is, the palate lacks a bit of vigour and depth……probably just past peak…..would drink this now for optimal enjoyment. (On hindsight, this might have benefitted from being served in a much smaller glass than the big fat Burgundy glasses.) 17/20

1961 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques, Rousseau
Served in a smaller glass than the younger vintages. Sous-bois, sauvage, earthy, coffee and bacon notes layer the bouquet and flavours. There is a very appealing freshness on the palate, keeping the wine in balance and structure intact, even though it’s not particularly concentrated or rich. A wine with character, finesse and a fine backbone. This delivered way beyond expectations. 17.5/20

2000 Gewurztraminer Sélection de Grains Nobles, Trimbach
Deep golden hue. Reminded me of Turkish delight, dried apricot, caramel, nuts and rye bread. Full-bodied, lusciously sweet, plenty going on, balanced with lively acidity. A marvellous expression of this fiddly and somewhat divisive grape variety ……some love it with a passion, others find the extreme spiciness and pungency, more than an acquired taste! 18/20

This might not have been the best wine to pair with the dessert called “Ethereal” but it was the most heavenly and indulgent dessert with a giant ball of candyfloss, dusted with dark chocolate, and as the warm praline sauce was poured on top, the candyfloss ball caved in, like a balloon losing air. What decadence!

Ethereal - Before the pouring of the sauce

Ethereal - after the pouring of the sauce!!! So wickedly decadent!

The Masterly Acts of Rousseau

7 Dec 2013: It’s always a treat to be invited to a meal by Chef Xavier Gutiérrez at DN-Innovación, Taipei. And even more of a treat to be invited to two, complete with world class wines by Rousseau, Krug, Selosse and others.

Our first meal started with 2 pairs of Krugs:

1990 Krug
A more mature bouquet than the 1988 Krug. A very ripe vintage. Caramel, hazelnut, dried fruit, very ripe pear, with liquorice, gingerbread and savoury nuances. Spicy on the finish. Creamy mousse. Weighty palate. I would drink this earlier than later to preserve the freshness. 17/20

1988 Krug
This tasted much fresher than the 1990 Krug. Green apple, citrus, lemon confit, honey and toasted almond. Vivacious acidity, plenty of energy on the palate. There seemed to be much more precision than the 1990 Krug, and an altogether much better experience. 18/20

1990 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was a complete change to the 1990 Krug. A lot more tension on the palate, with minerality, depth, energy, power and intensity. Notes of honey, cinnamon, a hint of savoury…..very elegantly balanced. Persistent finish. Utterly sensational. 19/20

1988 Krug Clos du Mesnil
This was a wine of superlative proportions! There were hints of pear, spice, toasted nuts, herbal (tarragon) on the nose. Very spicy and stony minerality on the palate, matched with such refined structure of tiny creamy bubbles, elegant balance, intensity, vibrancy (almost racy) and a terrific purity. This delivered a long saline finish. A wine in a class of its own! 19.5/20

1985 Montrachet, Ramonet
Incredibly complex on the nose……spices of cardamom and ginger, layered with caramel and savoury notes. A superb expression of the power and depth of Montrachet, with freshness, leading to a lingering finish. Just a hint of dryness on the finish for this bottle. 18.5/20

1959 Montrachet, Bouchard
What an extraordinary experience to taste a Montrachet with such age! Yet, this tasted remarkably younger than its age, with the balance of richness, complexity and some freshness. Very ripe and mature notes of toffee, roasted hazelnuts and honey, with liquorice and some sherry notes at the end. Finishes long. 17.5/20 (I think the fish course may not have done justice to this wine….I would probably suggest pairing with a fine Epoisses.)

The serving of Iberico Bellota ham sandwich heralded in the flight of Rousseau Chambertins.

1993 Chambertin, Rousseau
Still relatively youthful. Complex on the nose with notes of animal, earth, coffee and plum. Lively freshness and fine tannin giving a finely chiselled firm structure. A powerful yet restrained wine. This could be enjoyed now but I might just give this another 3 – 4 years before trying again. 18/20

1993 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau
Much more flamboyant and open than the Chambertin. Silky textue, with a complex array of aromas and flavours, with even a hint of sweetness from the ripe fruit. Very fine details on the palate. While the Chambertin was restrained, this was utterly charming and seductive. Finishes long. 18/20

1985 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau
In a word, sensational, coming right after the 1993’s, this wine totally elevated the tasting to a different level. Aromatically complex, with layers of spice, sous-bois, coffee and plum. The palate demonstrated such depth of character, concentration of ripe materials and tremendous energy, in a medium-bodied frame with refined texture. A very complete experience of balance, harmony, complexity and depth. Drink now and over next 10+ years. 19/20

1964 Chambertin, Rousseau
A display of richness and power of the Chambertin terrroir. This continued to develop in the glass. An initial hint of soy sauce gave way to notes of coffee, earth, leather and spice. This was a class act, in altogether a different style to the 85 or 59. Drink now and over next 5 – 6+ years. 18/20 (This was excellently paired with the Yilan duck breast with bitter cocoa paper!)

1959 Chambertin, Rousseau
The quintessential mature Burgundy, with such finesse and grace, an elegant structure that conveys its inimitable style. The bouquet is sous-bois, earthy, coffee with hints of spice. The complex flavours are coated with a sweetness and richness, delivered in expansive layers in the mouth, leading to a very long and fine finish. This profound expression has reached its apogee and should deliver equally truly memorable experience in the next 6 – 8+ years. 19/20

The Yilan duck breast....yummy!

In the mix, our host also interjected a couple of Leroy Chambertins, the 1971 Chambertin Clos de Bèze and the 1961 Chambertin…..both seemed rather subdued on this evening, compared with the Rousseaus.

We finished with a youthful 1963 Taylor's port......!

This incredible evening really paid homage to the brilliant craftsmanship of Charles Rousseau, from the 1959 to 1993, such fine expressions of terroir and extreme high quality and consistency that lasted the decades. It would be very interesting to retry the 1993s (together with the Clos Saint Jacques) in a few more years…..

A Pre-Christmas Get-Together: 1996 Dom Perignon Oenotheque best wine of the evening!

15 December 2013: A pre-Christmas dinner with a few drinking buddies. Our venue this time was The Coterie, a private kitchen/Swiss wine specialist partnership between Damien Fleury and chef Jacques Kägi. The Coterie recently featured in the 2013 Louis Vuitton guide as a recommended private kitchen in HK. We all had the Louis Vuitton Tasting Menu.

As aperitif, we had a 2004 Cuvée des Caudalies, de Sousa. A Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs, vinified in oak, and with malolactic fermentation. Pale lemon. Very fine bubbles. Toast, honey and pear notes on the nose, with mineral nuances to match on the palate. Racy acidity, fine balance and vigour, delivered with the creamy mousse. Finishes long and almost salty. Much better served in a white wine glass. This would be perfect with caviar or oysters! Not bad too with the salmon tartare (half of us had the salmon tartare and the other half the Welsh lamb tartare). 18/20

Salmon tartare

Welsh lamb tartare

Next wine was the 1999 Chevalier Montrachet, Etienne Sauzet. Pale gold. Toasted almonds, pear, smoke and honey on the nose. Plenty of freshness and energy on the slightly waxy palate. Long minerally finish, with just a hint of astringency. This is drinking very well now and will continue to drink over next 8 - 10+ years. 18/20

Gooseliver Chawanmushi with Sea Urchin

1996 Dom Perignon Oenothèque: An awesome champagne, that has so much detail, precision, power and elegance. Served in a white wine glass, the seductive bouquet was toast, nutty, lemon confit with savoury notes. There is a superbly refine structure underneath the medium/full body, vibrant acidity, minerality that is reminiscent of crushed stones, and bubbles of such finesse. Still tasting very youthful and full of tension. A mesmerising experience. This went beautifully with the '‘Gooseliver “Chawanmushi” with Sea Urchins " - warm foie gras 'custard', topped with a serving of very fresh sea urchin. Divine! 19.5/20

Bretagne blue lobster "sous-vide", beurre noisette, with Schabziger

Then we compared a pair of Lafites: 1966 (half) and 1978. I only got a tiny sip of the 1966 but I found it too musty and very weak in structure - past its peak. 14/20 The 1978 Lafite showed a very mature bouquet of leather, tobacco and cedar, with some remnants of red fruit. Almost sweet on entry. Rather light frame, but still retaining a reasonable structure and silky texture, though drying finish. This was a good effort for the vintage, but from this experience, I would drink this up pretty soon! Perhaps the larger formats could see through their 40th birthday!  Nonetheless a fine old-styled claret.  15.5/20

After the cauliflower, truffle soup, the next course was "Bretagne Blue Lobster “Sous vide”, Beurre Noisette with Shabzieger" - lobster cooked sous-vide with tomato and Schabziger cheese (a cow milk cheese made with skimmed milk and a herb called blue fenugreek). Very intense flavours here, and great lobster texture. Beautifully executed. We tasted the 2003 Richebourg, A-F Gros. This had been decanted for about an hour but could probably do with more bottle age before trying again. Today, this was not a good expression of the Burgundian terroir - it did not deliver the finesse and elegance one normally expected of Bourgogne wines, but the signs of the vintage were all there. The nose was very ripe black cherry, earth, fig, with some sweet spice. Almost full bodied, lowish in acidity, with a slight bitterness at the finish.  16/20

Iberico pork, potatoes dauphinois, with racelette

The main course of "Iberico Pork, Potatoes Dauphinois with Raclette" was tasty but perhaps a touch over-cooked? The meat was a little tough. A slower temperature and just pink might be better for the pork. For the wines, we compared the 1997 Henschke Hill of Grace with 1989 Penfolds Grange.

1997 Henschke Hill of Grace: Very ripe fruit filled the bouquet of bramble pie, black cherry, blackberry, dried fruit, roasted herbs and sweet spices. Full-bodied, very ripe soft but chewy still tannin. For me, this lacked a bit of acidity. I would wait a few more years before trying again....Drink now and over next 10 - 12+ years. (On reflection, this might have benefitted from some decanting time.) 17/20

1989 Penfolds Grange: 91% Shiraz, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon. This showed some signs of maturity: meaty and savoury notes, slowly revealing layers of sweet boiled fruit, black pepper and spice. Fleshy but firm structure, with grippy tannin and a good dose of refreshing acidity. Drink now and over next 10 - 12+ years. 17.5/20

2006 Opus One: 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 3% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec. Aged in new French oak for 17 months. Decanted for almost 2 hours. Blackcurrant, blackberry, bramble, liquorice, roasted herbs, with chocolate and mocha notes. A bold and masculine wine, with ripe chewy tannin and medium acidity. Not an elegant expression, rather a big structured wine that would benefit from more years in bottle. Drink now and over next 15+ years. 17.5/20

We all had a wonderful and indulgent evening and it was a great discovery of venue too! I highly recommend The Coterie if you are looking for an unassuming yet sophisticated intimate venue - only 2 private rooms! Very friendly chef Jacques who is Swiss-Chinese and he even comes out to greet us in Cantonese! Damien and his wife looked after us extremely well! (And he has a very good stock of Swiss whites for your next fondue/raclette party as well as some delicious Syrahs (Cayas) by Jean-Rene Germanier and his divine dessert wine called Mitis. Damien's website is: www.theswisswinestore.com) Just one tip: if you're planning to serve some old bottles, it might be a good idea to bring your own Durand.....

Bourgogne Part 4 - Good Food.......and Service!

Our welcome drink and snack!

16 - 24 Nov 2013: During our visit to Bourgogne, we took a small detour to Maison Troisgros in Roanne which celebrated this year its 45th consecutive year of 3 Michelin stars. Location would not be its best selling point these days - directly opposite the main railway station. Yet, once inside the building, there was an institutionalised professionalism, nicely blended with friendly service and efficiency. Modern touches ranged from interior decor to the merchandise....it's a very slick operation! We were shown to a lovely room (the hotel surprised us with an upgraded room!) with view of the garden inside, which we saw very little of because of the snow. Within minutes of settling into the room, a jug of iced tea with raspberry vinegar and mint appeared, together with a deliciously buttery brioche! The iced tea was heavenly, the vinegar giving it a really refreshing and tangy lift!

The first evening we had dinner at Le Central, the hotel's bistro, with an épicerie selling lovely tinned and preserved food items (we couldn't resist taking some sardines and anchovies!). I highly recommend the omelette soufflé with cheese - in the cookbook they make it with Persillé du Beaujolais....but at Le Central, it was made with Fourme d'Ambert......it was light and fluffy on the outside, and soft and runny inside, with the contrasting stronger blue cheese flavour against the delicacy of the egg......yummy and definitely big enough for two to share as a starter or as a vegetarian main course for one person!

The famous classic salmon dish!

On our second evening, we dined at the main restaurant.....and even though the classic dish of 'L'Escalope de Saumon à l'Oseille' does not feature any more on the menu - the chef was kind enough to make it for me.....fresh salmon in a creamy sauce of vermouth, Sancerre and double cream, balanced by the tangy sorrel! It could be a starter or main course....but given the amount of cream, having it as a second course was not a bad idea.

Ceps and eel, saltimbocca

For first course, I had the eel and ceps, saltimbocca! An unusual combination....but strangely it came out rather well - the savoury taste of the ham melted into the eel and the texture of the cep helped complement the softness of the eel.

John Dory with lots of white truffle!

Richard had a plate of John Dory with lots of white truffle.....I think frankly he could have done without the white truffle but was persuaded to have it by the very friendly maitre d'! His main course looked a little rich for me.....filet de boeuf in a rich red wine sauce (and lots of it!)!

 

Filet de Boeuf in a very rich sauce!

Our white wine of the evening was a 2008 Beaune Clos des Mouches, Drouhin: beautiful layers of aromas of citrus, floral, pear, toast and almond.....well balanced, with a good weighty palate, and vibrant acidity to take it to a nice long finish.

For the red, we had a 1999 Volnay Clos des Chênes, Michel Lafarge. Gorgeous bouquet, still lots of primary red fruit, with raspberry, fraise des bois and cranberry.....spicy and notes of game, coffee notes started to appear with a little aeration, and just a hint of underbrush. Very elegant, with a great backbone of fine-grained tannin, that is still taking its time to resolve, with refreshing acidity to balance. A remarkable wine, demonstrating excellent craftsmanship, that has yet to reach its apogée.....in fact after an hour and a half (with no decanting, just aeration in the glass), the astringency came to the fore. I think better approach not before another 4 - 5 years!

The pre-dessert was sensational.....it was like breakfast reconstructed.....yoghurt ice-cream/cream atop a generous sprinkling of granola....with something green appley!

The best part about our stay at Maison Troisgros though was the breakfast spread! There were lots of little pots of goodies....my favourite was cold scrambled egg topped with tomato concasse! Absolutely scrumptious! Not to count the numerous pastries.....and the bread basket! There was a cheesy brioche thing that was ever so delicate!

The breakfast table!

The whole experience at Maison Troisgros was altogether a very different one compared to that at Lameloise, and it probably wouldn't be fair to make a direct comparison. Lameloise to us has still very much maintained its focus on a traditional repertoire of local and fresh ingredients and a relatively traditional style of cooking with some modern innovations, perhaps more visible in the canapés than in the dishes...and the rooms are much more conventional, compared to the modern decor at Maison Troisgros....but the most rewarding part was a feeling of homecoming....that old-fashioned way of hospitality that the staff genuinely cared about your well-being....that's worth something! And the partridge and cep dish was a real treat at this time of the year!  (Frankly, we're spoilt for choices now with so many new hotels and restaurants in the Bourgogne region....and if you don't care for 3 stars, I highly recommend Le Montrachet for a great formula of delicious food, comfortable bed, well-sized rooms, a good shower, and extremely friendly and helpful staff and patron!)

Partridge and cep at Lameloise

Lameloise

Bourgogne in November 2013 - Part 3 - Stunning 1959 Gevrey!

16 - 24 Nov 2013:  As a last hurrah, a dear friend pulled the corks of a few old bottles. 1959 Gevrey-Chambertin, Armand Rousseau. This wine definitely delivered above its class…..a garnet allure…..with a gorgeously mature and complex bouquet of plum, prune, animal, leather, cardamom and dried mushroom. A wine that still tasted with its structure intact, silky tannin, richness of flavours, balanced by fine acidity, lingering in the mouth for a very long time. The 1964 Gevrey-Chambertin, Armand Rousseau, showed maderised notes of caramel and coffee, and a hint of volatility. The 1953 Avery-bottled Charmes Chambertin was also very nice, but perhaps a little too sweet and soupy, bordering on being cloying……

It may sound like we only had red wines on this trip….not true at all. A few memorable examples included 2007 Lafon Meursault (classy Chardonnay fruit, with a fine structure and a long finish), 2002 Meursault Les Rougeots, Coche-Dury (green apple, pear, toast, acacia, with stoney mineral nuances, round and viscous, but deftly balanced by superb acidity, very long finish…punching above its class!) and 2011 Puligny-Montrachet Clos du Cailleret, Jean Chartron (crisp acidity, aromas of pear and apple, loved the detail and minerality on the palate). I did have a tiny taste of the 1999 Meursault-Perrières, Coche-Dury…but it was rather brief! Richard said it was quite sensational and seemed hardly evolved at all.

As we drove away from a snow-covered Côte d’Or, memory of the 1959 Rousseau Gevrey Village still lingered………

Bourgogne in November 2013 - Part 2 - A Vertical Tasting of Bachelet Charmes Chambertin

16 - 24 Nov 2013: The highlight of our trip was a vertical tasting of 21 vintages of Charmes Chambertin, Denis Bachelet. I met Denis at the end of the tasting and he seemed relieved that the bottles showed well, as he was sceptical about the condition of the wine that had travelled some distance to find its way back to Bourgogne, given the fragility of the pinot grape!

When Denis turned 16, his father decided that he would stay in Belgium and traded his pedigree in the wine industry for a career in the chemical industry…..so Denis was sent to the wine school in Beaune in 1979. With support and guidance from his grandmother, he slowly started the building and expansion of the domaine (which already began well with some prestigious Charmes Chambertin planted in the 1920s by his great aunt). His first vintage was 1983. The Charmes Chambertin comes from 2 parcels of very old vines totalling 0.433 hectares, located at the top of the hill between Morey and Gevrey, with very shallow top soil (around 30 cm) but the age of the vines and the deep root systems are very important to ride out extreme conditions. Normally he produces around 8 barrels of Charmes every year, but only 3 barrels were produced in 2012! Ouch!!!

I took some notes from Richard to complete the following as I only tasted a few of them….

1988: A beautiful mature bouquet of prune, coffee and mushroom. Utterly harmonious, a seamless assembly of silky texture, with just the right amount of freshness keeping alive the palate, layers of complexity on the palate, leading to a long long finish. If this were music, this would be a Brahms symphony……… Drink now and over next 8 – 10 years. One of my top 3 favourites in the flight. (Market price around GBP 400 a bottle)

1989: Unfortunately corked – Richard and I will try one of the other 2 bottles from the same batch that we recently bought in HK.

1990: Bouquet a little funky for me..….but silky mouthfeel and fine structure. Richard’s note says: “sweet mature fruit, good energy, slightly less dense than 1999, but some similarity. Perfect now.”

1992: Despite a large crop vintage and a lesser reputation, this turned out to have aged rather well. Coffee, mushroom, fig with a lovely perfume of ripe fruit. Everything nicely proportioned in a lithe frame, well balanced and finishes long. Very charming and drinking perfectly now. This really was a nice surprise. Don’t miss it if you can find a bottle! Drink now….and over next 4-5 years?

1993: Very expressive of the vintage characteristics, with the consistent Bachelet style. I found this a little angular and stiff at the moment. Time should help the sinewy and still astringent tannin soften, with sufficient fruit to last through this evolution. (Richard’s note says: “meaty, savoury nose, fruit and acidity coming together nicely, complex and long flavours. A great 1993!)

1995: A touch closed on the nose, some 1995 firmness/acidity but good fruit. A good effort for 1995. (Richard)

1996: Out of condition bottle.

1997: A wine that is drinking at peak now…….quite gamey, farmyard and tertiary, but still retaining a good dollop of plum and prune fruitiness. Structure started to loosen a little. Recommend drinking now. (Market price around GBP 160 a bottle)

1998: Ripe red fruit, slightly gamey nose. Explosive fruit on entry. A great 1998. (Richard)

1999: (First bottle was corked….and Jasper swiftly came to the rescue with a second bottle - thank you!) This was absolutely sensational. From the brilliance of the colour to the way the flavours lingered in the mouth for an incredibly long time! Velvety in texture, with remarkable freshness, overlaying the concentration and intensity of flavours. I loved the poise of this wine, delivering power and class in a most subtle and understated way. Dried red fruit, plum, prune, violet and notes of mushroom. A persistent finish. The most complete wine and an absolute treat to be enjoyed now, with a long way to go! I would drink this over the next 15 – 20 years…….This was another top 3 favourite for me in this flight.

2000: Not quite the same energy or power as the 1999. Quite classy with a good balance, with very ripe black frit, spice and violet notes……almost sweet on entry. Soft and cuddly……quite ready now! Drink now and over next 8 – 10 years.

2001: Less concentration and looser-knit than 2002, but still showed an elegant structure. Slightly funky and earthy on the nose that is quite 01. Remarkable effort.

2002: Lovely 02 nose….wonderfully linear, silky concentrated fruit…long finish. A class act. (Richard)

2003: Well-balanced and elegantly crafted, given the challenges of the vintage. I did not detect any burnt fruit character – only lush and ripe black fruit, just starting to get nicely integrated. Went rather well with Russell’s sausage and lentil casserole.

2004: A little vegetal….but a very good effort for the vintage. I rather liked it….the vegetal edge added something different to the wine…..without detracting from the perceived elegance and intensity. Fine tannin and balancing acidity with layers of good fruit underneath the vegetal notes. This drinks very well now……and could provide quite good ‘value-drinking’? (Market around GBP 80 a bottle)

2005: Still very youthful…ripe red fruit….a bit closed…big, concentrated and powerful. Firm finish. A wine for the very long haul. Try again in 5 years time…..(Richard)

2006: Very 06 wine gum nose, nice round balanced mouthfeel, good lift on finish (Richard)

2007: Made in a more approachable style…..overlaid with Bachelet stylistic elegance. Pure red fruit….doesn’t quite have the same dimensions as 2006 or 2008 but very attractive now. (Market around GBP 130 a bottle)

2008: Neat and suave, with hints of spice amidst the ripe brambly fruit. Very fine juice, expected to have excellent ageing potential. A superb effort.

2009: Richness and concentration are hallmarks here, neatly balanced by a good dose of acidity. Very ripe and succulent blue and black fruit……lush mouthfeel, without any heaviness. Very fine material for long term ageing. (Market around GBP 300 a bottle!)

2010: Still very young…..great precise winemaking here, accompanied by exceptional fruit material. Beautiful ripe red fruit, raspberry and cranberry. Perfectly proportioned. Persistent finish. A wine with tremendous potential. My other top 3 favourite! (Market around GBP 300 a bottle!)

This tasting more or less concluded our brief visit to Bourgogne! All the wines were so consistent with the Bachelet style….all delivering such balance, elegance and fine expression….as Clive Coates put it once: ““The Denis Bachelet style is for wines of intensity, great elegance, and subtlety: feminine in the best sense. They are concentrated, harmonious, pure and understated………”

Bourgogne in November 2013 - Part 1

16 - 24 Nov 2013: We’re back in Bourgogne……every year we notice a few changes to this very charming and special region and we learn some new things about Bourgogne wines.  I landed at CDG on the Saturday morning and just made it in time for the Hospices de Beaune pre-auction tasting at the Hôtel Dieu.  We tasted some very young but promising 2013s, some of which still hanging onto a bit of residual sugar yet to be fermented out.   Having been totally dumbfounded by the extraordinary prices for the brilliant 2012 vintage, we still found it hard to believe the stellar prices the auction fetched this year: a total sales value of EUR 5.77 million for 443 barrels, representing a 27% increase in value per average barrel (28% increase for reds and 20% increase for whites), despite a 15% decrease in total volume.  The Pièce de Président (456 litres) went for the grand price of EUR 131,000 (last year it went for EUR 270,000)!  The Meursault-Genevrières Cuvée Philippe Le Bon did taste very well but at this price, this would easily put a bottle of this wine at well over EUR 450, after factoring in costs of élevage, auction premium and transportation, etc.  This very charitable act would benefit two very worthy causes: L’Association Petits Princes and L’Association Beaunoise des Papillons Blancs….even if this stunning price almost rivalled that of a bottle of Montrachet by a good producer?!  

The direction of this auction may have left us behind……perhaps….but there is a piece of Bourgogne for everyone.  We are now ever more encouraged to discover lesser-known appellations which offer great price-quality relationship and younger growers who are getting increasing recognition for the improving quality of their wines with every vintage.  Bourgogne is as diverse as the terroirs and the people behind who work to preserve the character of the terroirs through their own individual expressions……this for me is the ‘Inimitable Bourgogne’.

For those interested in discovering the lesser known appellations, I highly recommend Givry, Montagny, Mercurey, Pernand-Vergelesses, Savigny-lès-Beaune, Marsannay, Ladoix-Serrigny and Auxey Duresses.  Another thing we noticed on this trip was how approachable young Burgundies are, we had some rather tasty 2010s and 2011s.  Some very interesting examples that we tasted on this trip included: 2010 Mercurey Blanc 1er Cru Croichots, Bruno Lorenzon (well balanced, with a lovely minerality and spiciness, ripe peach, and clean finish); 2011 Auxey Duresses, Maréchal  (lovely juicy Pinot with very pure red fruit and underbrush character, and a nice refreshing lift at finish – an alternative to a Beaujolais Cru?); 2011 Pernand-Vergelesses Blanc 1er Cru Le Clos du Village, Rapet (great balance and lush mouthfeel, balanced by crisp acidity and finishes with superb minerality); 2010 Pernand –Vergelesses Blanc 1er Cru Sous Frétille , Rapet (good grip and balance, soft mouthfeel embodying finesse and elegance, crisp minerally finish); 2010 Santenay Blanc, Borgeot (lovely crispness plus rounded mouthfeel, some complexity with a hint of oak and a minerally finish); 2011 Rully, Vincent Dureuil-Janthial (needing a little more time to come together but very appealing, with a bit more ‘gras’ than the typical Rully, quite close to the Côte de Beaune style)  and a 2011 Mercurey 1er Cru La Cailloute, Theulot Juillot (crispy red fruit with a good grip).

For the appellation of Givry, we went for a very good tasting at Domaine Masse Père et Fils which produces 50% Givry and 50% Bourgogne from 11 hectares of land (the wines are made by Fabrice, nephew of Monsieur Roland Masse, winemaker of the Hospices de Beaune). Tasting through 2011 through 2013 (with the 2012s just bottled)…the wines all showed good expression of the vintage characteristics, as well as purity of fruit and balance, with freshness, vibrancy, elegance and the top cuvée showing layered complexity.  Highly recommend the Givry 1er Cru En Veau (with vines that are just 6 years old but showing great potential) and the Givry 1er Cru Champ Lalot (an excellent top drop of Givry 1er Cru).  The 2003 Champ Lalot that we tasted at the end was still remarkably fresh and vibrant.

How did the 2012s taste?  I’m afraid it is shaping up to be yet again ANOTHER GREAT VINTAGE!  We tasted at a few domaines…..admittedly most of them from Côte de Nuits, but the quality has been very consistent, and the small millerandé fruit gave a very fine structure, silky tannin, refreshing acidity, wonderful balance, aromatic complexity and with the greatest wines, a very long finish to the wine.   At least from the reds that I tasted, this seems to be a vintage that will be able to be approached readily with a long ageing potential for the best wines!  We need to come back to taste some whites to see how they compare with the 2011s. It is possible that some white wine domaines probably did better in 2011 than 2012.  In any case, with the much lower volume (generally 30 to 60% less depending on region and appellation, and being the 3^rd successive small vintage and with a fourth in view for some appellations), there will be no bargains…..

Snow arrived while we were in Bourgogne.....and everything looked rather magical!

View from our room at Le Montrachet in the morning, fresh from the overnight snow fall.....

A Gamey Evening

20 Oct 2013: We were going to serve grouse at supper on Sunday, with a few friends. Grouse does have a very strong gamey flavour and it is probably not to everyone's taste. So as the hosts, we made sure we gave our guests some advanced warning, just in case. And what do you serve with a gamey bird? One rather pungent and gamey grape variety did come to mind - Mourvèdre! And we did have one bottle that would feature this grape variety rather prominently: the Hommage à Jacques Perrin! 

We started with a champagne made with 6 of the grape varieties from the Champagne region: a 2000 Moutard Cuvée des 6 Cépages, disgorged in June 2004.  Medium lemony robe. A gorgeous bouquet of lemon, pear, apple, acacia, with just the faintest hint of toasty notes. A fine creamy mousse, with just enough acidity to balance out the richness on the palate, giving it a harmonious mouthfeel with complex flavours filling out the middle palate, finishing long and smooth. Gorgeous! I doubt we could identify the taste profile of the individual grape varieties but the sum was definitely much more than the individuals! 18/20

Our first course was grilled langoustines, with tarragon butter. These yummy crustaceans were happily washed down with 2001 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Coche-Dury. What a remarkably youthful 12-year-old Bourgogne blanc this was! We all felt rather stricken by this display of seemingly eternal youthfulness. Vibrant acidity giving the wine poise, energy and freshness, with a lively lift at the finish. Slightly waxy, lemon peel and pear notes.

While Richard was serving up the grouse with red cabbage and fried bread, accompanied by a delicious wild mushroom bake brought by our friends, we started on the flight of 3 wines from Southern Rhone. The idea was that we could compare them in pairs. First pair was 1990 and 1989 Rayas. The 1990 Rayas revealed a bouquet of redcurrant, plum, white pepper and tarragon. The palate showed more spicy notes. The fine tannins were still a little astringent. Overall, the structure seemed taut. There seemed more complexity and generosity on the nose than on the palate. Drinking very well now and probably will benefit from further ageing in bottle and can keep for 10 - 15 years. 18/20 The 1989 Rayas, with its deeper garnet colour, by comparison was lush and rich, with a robust structure lying underneath the velvety coating. Redcurrant, even some dried strawberry or currant, layered with notes of spice. A truly sensational Rayas, ticking all the boxes, for balance, opulence, complexity, structure, finish and longevity. Very fine. 19/20

We were supposed to retain some 1989 Rayas in the glass so that it could be compared with the 1989 Beaucastel Hommage à Jacques Perrin. Frankly there was very little comparison to be made, as the styles and flavour profiles were so very different. Here we had an intensely deep, almost ruby colour. The nose was distinctly gamey and sauvage, with very ripe underlying bramble fruit. A very fine and robust structure of vibrant acidity, giving a wonderful lift to the robust and masculine structure. Some astringency at the finish. This made such a fantastic pairing with the grouse and ceps in the mushroom bake. An exotic, utterly toothsome and truly memorable wine. It was quite hard to go back to the lushness of the Rayas after having your senses so awakened by the Hommage à Jacques Perrin. You could drink this now with decanting.....and it will continue to improve over next 8 - 10 years, drinking well way beyond this. 19.5/20

Some of us were still thirsty after these 3 beauties. So Richard pulled out the 2005 Henri Bonneau Cuvée des Célestins. This showed much promise but was frankly too young and drunk too fast! (I didn't really get round to this, being a very slow drinker!)

We finished the evening with a 1966 Graham's. This was unctuous and there was remarkable freshness underneath the layers of rich flavours of cherry, plum, toffee, and fruitcake. Great acidity balancing all this richness. Here we were shown what great ports could do to you - you couldn't stop sipping it! A very long finish.  A formidable tour de force!  19.5/20

These great Châteauneuf du Papes were so magnificent because they were allowed to age gracefully and slowly. I adore southern Rhone wines - I love that boldness, that ruggedness wrapped up in that herby and spicy veneer, that wild untamed beauty. And needless to say, the grouse-Hommage à  acques Perrin pairing was simply spot on......I was left speechless!

Sadly that might have been our last bottle of Hommage à Jacques Perrin!.......It will be very interesting if one could retaste the 1989 pair in 10, 15 and 20 years' time! And time will be the judge!

1999 Richebourg, Denis Mugneret

18 October 2013:
1999 Richebourg, Denis Mugneret: medium garnet robe. An intensely spicy Vosne nose, with nuances of violet, coffee, blackberry and dried fruit wafting from the glass to the nose. Fine-grained tannin that has resolved into the structure of the wine, giving a very fine chiselled structure, bolstered by a well balanced level of acidity. Classy and regal, with that inimitable Vosne-ness about it. A very fine drop that has just started to drink at its apogee and will continue to drink well for 8 - 10 years. 18.5/20

1985 Volnay Santenots, Ampeau

23 Sep 2013: As Super Typhoon Usagi swept in to thrash the city of Hong Kong yesterday evening, we settled in to enjoy a very refined 1985 Volnay Santenots, Ampeau. Medium garnet core. Beautiful mature Burgundian bouquet of undergrowth, wet leaves, prune, mushroom, overlying notes of dried strawberry and plum. Silky texture coating the sophisticated palate, highlighted by vibrant freshness, depth of character and an understated elegance, all within a mid-weight frame. Just a hint of dryness on the long finish. A magnificently harmonious expression of this Volnay terroir that has aged most gracefully! Drinking at peak now and over next 3 - 5+ years! 18/20 

We also had a 1993 Volnay Santenots du Milieu, Lafon recently. This seemed more angular, and somewhat ungenerous on the palate.....although still flaunting some primary red fruit and spice, as well as tertiary notes of sous-bois....but the prominence of the acidity made it seem rather unyielding at this point in time....not sure this would get any better than this. 16.5/20

The 9 Crus of 2008 Produttori del Barbaresco

14 Sep 2013: It was really a great treat to be invited to a tasting of the 9 crus of the Produttori del Barbaresco, all from the 2008 vintage, over a nice long meal at Si Mangia, a private kitchen focusing on Italian cuisine, overseen by Chef Ben and his wife. 11 of us occupied a table at the centre of the dining area of Si Mangia (www.simangia.com.hk), with plenty of space to fit 9 glasses per person, our plates and even room to scribble down your tasting notes! A real luxury as far as wine dinners go in HK! Although the restaurant did not have so many glasses for us, our thoughtful hosts arranged for Lucaris to supply the excellent array of glasses. Again another indulgence!


Produttori del Barbaresco is a Cantine Sociale (co-operative) that started in 1958. From the 19 founding families of growers whose holdings included majority control of some of the best vineyards such as Ovello, Montestefano, Moccagatta and Pajè, the Produttori has now grown to a membership of 54 families controlling 110 hectares of vineyards (approximately 22% of the entire DOCG), adding other prime vineyards such as Rabajà, Asili and Montefico, etc. The Produttori respects traditional winemaking practices and today, although it uses stainless steel tanks for fermentation, the wines all go through lengthy maceration of 40 to 60 days, depending on style and vintage. The crus are all aged for 3 years in large old botti before bottling. Typical production volume is 35,000 cases per year, including 40% of cru bottlings, 40% of bottling as Barbaresco and the remaining 20% as Nebbiolo della Langhe. There are 9 crus altogether: Ovello, Pajè, Pora, Rio Sordo, Moccagatta (Muncagota), Montestefano, Montefico, Rabajà and Asili. Our hosts had organised these 9 crus into 3 flights for us to taste and appreciate:


Flight 1 - common trait of rich soils?
Pora
Rio Sordo
Asili

Flight 2 - very good aromatics?
Pajè
Ovello
Muncagota

Flight 3 - structure and ageability?
Rabajà
Montefico
Montestefano


Here are my brief notes:

Pora: Notes of blackberry, black cherry, minty herb, tar, earthy and liquorice. Quite fleshy but in a rustic manner. Firm ripe tannin. Lovely aromatics. Lacks the refinement of the other crus.

Rio Sordo: Also quite rustic in style, more red fruit here, savoury and sinewy in structure. Astringent finish.

Asili: Both red and black fruit here, floral (violet), with herbal notes. Intense, weighty and powerful, but extremely well balanced. Almost a nice sweetness on entry. Refined firm tannin. Finishes long, beautiful.

Pajè: Quite closed initially. Reticent nose. But plenty of freshness from cool climate vineyards. Red fruit dominates.

Ovello: Black fruit, tar, liquorice and minty herb. A more forward style, quite opulent.

Muncagota: Almost Burgundian like. Medium bodied, delicate and refined, quiet and unassuming. Very elegant. Lovely long finish.

Rabajà: Aromatically intense, with herbal and floral notes. Well balanced, richness in body, but quite broad-shouldered, with robust tannic structure.

Montefico: Very linear, almost muscular, quite firm tannin. A poised and stylish wine....that needs some time to unwind.

Montestefano: Very ripe cherry fruit, plenty of complexity, vibrant acidity, firm ripe tannin. A very complete wine.

If I were to pick 3 best wines of the evening based on my experience this evening, they would be Montestefano, Rabajà and Muncagota for me......Ovello would be a close 4th! Then there would be Asili too!

Thank you so much to our most generous and thoughtful hosts! This was definitely a very well-organised tasting which allowed us to appreciate the great progress towards the highest quality that the Produttori had made in the past decade and in doing so, had preserved traditional practices and ensured that the wines would remain expressive of their individual terroirs. These are extremely impressive Barbaresco wines and most definitely will reward long term cellaring....if one can wait that long! And they are still reasonably priced compared to other big names!