1924 and 1926 Lafite

31 May 2012: A few weeks ago, we decided to pull the corks of a couple of old Lafite bottles, which had lost their labels (and in today's wine market, probably most of their value!) over the years.  Fortunately for us, they had been properly identified so that we still knew what they were!!  We invited a few good friends to share these bottles with us. Charles said (a couple of days ago) that it was rather unfair of us to open these bottles without warning when he was expecting a casual Sunday supper! Wouldn't life be a little dull if we had looked for too many excuses??!!

We started the evening with a 1979 Ampeau Meursault Perrières.  It revealed a golden robe, with a gloriously ripe and mature bouquet of honey, hazelnuts, fig, guava, building up to spicy notes of liquorice making a marvellously layered complex nose.   We were totally in awe of the agelessly fresh acidity, combined with the layered complexities,  giving a gorgeously lengthy finish.  Superb stuff and great demonstration of the ageability that Chardonnay could be capable of!



Corks from the 24 and 26 Lafite Bottles

After this glorious start, we were well-prepped for the long awaited pair of 1924 and 1926 Lafite.  A very good sign that both corks were pulled with a very promising 'plop' and revealed a very robust form.  And the wines?  The 1924 was unquestionably the 'better-kept' of the two old ladies.  We were all in awe of the rather fruitful character at this grand age - black  and blue fruit, cherries and berries, lifted by some peppery and smokey/earthy notes.  Very well held together in a firm but elegant frame, with lovely acidity and fully-integrated soft tannin.  Though not terribly concentrated, the underlying material was certainly of high quality and ageworthy.  Nice long length.  Certainly drinking very well now at peak........and could continue to give pleasure for a few more years if well-stored!  17/20     

As for the younger sister, unfortunately time hadn't been so kind and the bouquet was decidedly tertiary but still aromatically rather enticing, with leather, dark chocolate, earthy, tobacco, underbrush and musky notes.  Rather bland and hollow mid-palate, which didn't really improve over the course of the dinner, followed by short length and a drying finish.  Well past drinking at its best......and not very exciting.  15/20 

For those of you who have enjoyed a few old bottles, you will appreciate how quickly these wines disappeared!  We had prepared a bottle of 1952 Pétrus as follow-up.  This demonstrated great mature Pomerol notes of prunes, mocha, chocolate and violet.  Lovely weight in a mid-sized frame, still showing great acidity.  Drinking very well at peak now, with a lengthy finish.  17.5/20

Great wines generally leave you speechless.  These were by no means great wines from great vintages, but it was simply mindblowing how gracefully they had aged, in some cases still retaining charming remnants of their more youthful and vigorous selves. 

1955 Haut Brion and 1999 d'Auvenay Criots

26 May 2012: To celebrate our first proper meal at our new home,  we opened something special.  1955 Haut Brion.  This was preceded by a 1999 d'Auvenay Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet.  First the white wine.  A quiet wine, subtle and elegant, in a very elegant and linear frame.  Lime blossom, citrus, spice, and plenty of minerality.  Incredibly fresh for its age, delighting the palate with very pure flavours, much tension and energy, and a lovely finish.  17.5/20

The level of the 1955 Haut Brion was Very Top Shoulder.  Ruby-garnet hue.  A very enticing nose of wet pebbles, tobacco, cigar box, lead pencil, leather and violet.  Very silky palate, with a hint of lovely sweet fruit on entry, now showing a thoroughly harmonious balance, with a very lengthy finish.  Perhaps slightly lacking in intensity, density and weight to reward a higher rating, but nonetheless a remarkable effort for an unfashionable vintage.   18.5/20 

Accademia del Barolo in HK

28 May 2012:  It was really a privilege to be invited to a Masterclass tasting of the 2007 vintage with the distinguished members of the Accademia del Barolo, which counts 14 producers amongst its members:  Azelia, Michele Chiarlo, Conterno-Fantino, Damilano, Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Gianni Gagliardo, Franco M. Martinetti, Monfalletto-Cordero di Montezemolo, Pio Cesare, Prunotto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino,  Vietti and Roberto Voerzio.  This is the first time the Accademia's members visited Hong Kong. All except 2 (Luciano Sandrone and Roberto Voerzio) of the members sent in a representative (family member or the winemaker himself) or wine samples and in most cases, both!  The mission statement of the Accademia is to spread the word about Barolo and improve the overall public's knowledge of this King of wines (and wine of Kings).  Great kudos to Debra (and Sarah) who convinced the producer members to come visit HK during Vinexpo, to spread the word about Barolo to HK wine-lovers, and even better to bring their best bottles! 

All the wines showed amazingly well, each extremely expressive of the style of the producer, the character of the Nebbiolo grape and that of the terroir. Some were made in a more 'rustic', slightly more austere style,  while others showed more extraction (albeit retaining much elegance) wrapped in a more modern, readily approachable style.  It would be very hard to rank the wines because they were all so delicious.  Debra encouraged us to taste and re-taste the wines in the glasses, once they had had time to flourish and develop with aeration. All showed gorgeous ripe fruit and depending on the style, either floral or spicy, with chocolate/liquorice notes. All were extremely well balanced and beautifully structured.  My favourites were: Vietti Barolo Brunate which was feminine and voluptuous, Monfalletto-Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI which was aristocratic, lush and concentrated, and the Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio which was very stylish, with great character and seductive aromas.....but I also admired very much the Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc (great aromatics, powerful and concentrated), the Pio Cesare Barolo (harmonious and elegantly balanced) and the Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Cannubi which was ever so ethereal, with silky tannin and very fresh fruit! 

The 2007 vintage line-up - absolutely gorgeous wines!!!

Debra and Patrick also very generously organised a private dinner for a few wine-loving friends with this distringuished group of wine producers on the previous evening, so that we would have the opportunity to speak to them in more casual setting.  Not only were we treated to some great bottles with some age, we were also regaled with a sumptuous buffet of fine cuisine prepared by Patrick (I loved the stuffed peppers - an unusual stuffing with pig's livers)!  The immaculately orchestrated procedure was rather annoyingly interrupted by an onslaught of flying termites which went on for almost an hour and a half before they retired to bed at 9 pm. I slightly lost track of what I tasted or not.....however, from memory, we tasted a very fine 2001 Vietti Barolo Brunate and a gorgeous 2006 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio with great intensity and depth.  The 1998 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata was definitely a favourite of mine, still flaunting so much vigour, concentration and firm structure.  Debra and Patrick were incredibly generous, as were our friends from Barolo, who were all incredibly friendly and so willing to share their passion and love of Barolo with us! 

We were all warmly invited to visit Piemonte which, like Burgundy of France, offers great food and great wine!!!  Let's drink more Barolo because it truly deserves to be celebrated!!

A Not So Random May Day Gathering

1 May 2012: Public holiday in HK. A few of us had gone to an amazing 30th birthday party the previous night where we were treated to a generous showing of very high quality burgundy wines (my most memorable being 1984 Ramonet Montrachet, 1999 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne, 1996 Lafon Meursault Perrieres, 1997 Leroy Corton Charlemagne and the 1970 magnum of Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze that we brought!  Richard said he tasted a very nice 1962 Leroy Musigny.....but unfortunately I didn't get that far!!).  We were having a few friends home to a casual supper with a few bottles.  We hadn't quite planned the wines for the evening but one thing led to another and we went down a rather slippery path of indulgence!

2000 Pontet Canet. Deep ruby colour.  Bouquet of chocolate, blackberry preserve, spices, underbrush,  truffle, smoke and mineral.  A wine of masculine proportions, with gorgeous tannic structure, and plenty of ripe phenolic substance. This wine has just started to unfold its big and brooding structure.  It will reward the patient.  17.5/20

I looked around the cellar and thought the 1990 L'Evangile would be a worthy successor. A seductive wine, sensual and shapely.  Smokey, cedar, blueberry, mocha, floral and leather characterise the very attractive bouquet. A wine that boasts great balance, concentration, depth and complexity on the palate, with a very long finish.  A classic Pomerol beauty.  18.5/20

Then Richard quite fancied the look of the 1966 Vieux Chateau Certan.  Cedar, meaty and leather bouquet.  Glorious tertiary aromatics. A little disappointing on the palate, which was still relatively fresh but devoid of fruit character, with a somewhat bothering astringent aspect.  A wine that would never quite resolve its elements!  16/20

After that, there was no return......out came the 1955 Graham's: Viscous and concentrated.  Caramel, dried fruit, walnuts, dark cherry pie, with hints of chocolate. A rich and unctuous nectar that had very little difficulty slipping down our throats! Quite a spirity finish.  19/20

   

2002 Raveneau Montee de Tonnerre

3 May 2012: 2002 Raveneau Montée de Tonnerre. Rather youthful and could definitely benefit from further bottle age.  I rather admired the austerity and flinty minerality of this young wine, showing lots of tension and energy, made more appealing with a decidedly citrus character, with smokey and spicy notes emerging after a while in the decanter. Very firm acidity bolstering the broad structure.  Slightly aloof, but stylish nonetheless, and lengthy in the finish. Drink now and for next 8 - 10 years. 17.5/20

On the same evening, we also opened a bottle of 1999 Vosne-Romanée Cuvée Duvault-Blochet, DRC.  Very elegant and showing some graceful ageing.  Raspberry, spicy, chocolate and some underbrush characterised the charming bouquet.  The flavours, while not hugely intense, show remarkable complexity, within the framework of well-integrated soft tannin and harmonious acidity.  Some sappy notes on the persistent finish. A wine of elegant subtlety and intellectual content, that seeks to harmonise, rather than overwhelm. Drink now and for the next 6 - 8 years. 17/20

1947 Petrus and 1982 Petrus

28 Apr 2012: A little while ago, I spotted some 'weeping' from the capsule of a bottle of 1947 Petrus (van der Meulen bottled), followed by something that seemed to be bubbling away at the edge of the capsule.  So I suggested that we should just open it to see what it's like, expecting the worst.  Initially, it tasted rather unexciting, to the point that it was totally lacking in character, even when no obvious faults could be detected.  Perhaps it was our imagination, there seemed to be a little prickle on the palate, offputting but not offensive.  It would seem such a waste to pour it down the sink.  Instead, we pumped out the air and left it in the fridge for 24 hours.  What emerged the following day was something quite amazing.  It had taken on this lush, luxurious and opulent texture, with the nose showing distinct chocolate, mocha, sweet black fruit, leather and smoke.  The middle palate had become much more substantial, generously coating the mouth with rich and sweet flavours, and leaving a very long finish.  A rich and powerful wine, that was drinking at peak now and would continue to drink beautifully over the next 8 - 10 years, based on this bottle's miraculous performance! It was much richer than the 1949 L'Evangile, which sadly did not improve in the course of the evening.  19.5/20 for the 47 Petrus and 16.5/20 for the 49 L'Evangile.

We also opened a bottle of 1985 L'Evangile, which was well-balanced and beautifully integrated, aromatically enticing with blackberries, cocoa, mocha, earthy, and floral notes.  Medium bodied, with elegant acidity.  A lovely wine drinking at peak now, but it didn't quite have the concentration nor seductive power of the 1947 Petrus,  which simply became better and better as the evening progressed!

Last night we needed a bit of cheering up. So we opened a bottle of 1982 Petrus, from an OWC.  Richly intense aromas leapt out of the glass.  Chocolate, mocha, black cherry preserve, blackberries and cedar enrapturing the olfactory senses.  There was just a hint of vegetal character adding to the complexity rather than detracting from it,  in our view.  On the palate, medium bodied, still showing a fair amount of astringency from an earlier much more tannic existence, intensely black fruit and liquorice.  Very long finish, with a slightly woody aftertaste.  A superb wine that just started to drink beautifully and will continue to mature over next 10 - 15 years. 18/20